2mm/3mm apex tips

Started by ssn11, January 17, 2011, 12:24:54 PM

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ssn11

Was going to order my rebuild kit other day. But found out the engine was ported I thought I best measure the tips. Toke one to workshop turns out they are 3mm tips.
I know the rotors have to be machined to take the bigger tip, but what is the reason for this, also do you use a single spring with them?
Only reason I can think of is you get 50% more tip size over 2mm, what else?
Are these alot more expensive over 2mm tips
Thanks guys
Sean

dthebuk

Are they 3mm in terms of depth or width?

If its depth, then i guess they\'d lose compression rather than get forced out of the rotor when it all goes tips up (excuse the pun)

Width, i have no idea, maybe better against det


\'91 FC TII - Drifter... Under construction :D
:burnout

Prof

3mm break just as easily as 2mm.
 
I think when they first started doing 3mm, it was thought the extra material would give strength for boosted engines, but in reality the modern 2mm seals will allow revving higher and take just as much punishment.
 
Cost wise, there doesn\'t seem to be much in it - not for performance seals.
 
I thought 3mm also used 2 springs, well my old engine certainly had a notch back cut into the seal and used 2 springs.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


BlitzBoy

Just saw on old skool 10A stripped back ready to be rebuilt with stock 5mm seals lol
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

HaywardRotary

Quote from: BlitzBoy;737359Just saw on old skool 10A stripped back ready to be rebuilt with stock 5mm seals lol

You mean 6mm
We warranty our rebuilt engines for Detonation, track day\'s and RWYB and NOW for 30 months which is two and half years or 30,000 miles
We also build all types of race or road engines.
We build race and track cars too.
Any kind of porting undertaken.
Single turbo conversions.
S

BlitzBoy

Quote from: HaywardRotary;737370You mean 6mm

Probably I didnt measure them, but they look very prodigious lol
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

clive

Hi Sean,

Do you know who built the engine before you stripped it as it may be an idea to find out if the tips used were Mazda or aftermarket ones as your rotors would have been sized for the tips that have been used
All the best Clive

Ricco_04

Flippin heck, 6mm apex seals?! :2eek

Kenji

yes, the famous Apex Barriers :D

Mir

Hi

I used 3mm seals in my 20b when I first did the rebuild..in my previous engines (13bs) I always managed to blow the apex seals  :(

But in my previous 20b engine, last year, I experienced such a sever detonation that the side seals were half disappeared and the single spring under the 3mm apex seal was straight as ruler because of the heat-not only I experience that but the rotors had dents on them...But guess what, the 3mm seal never broke..it was straight as hell not even bent..I do strongly believe that 3mm seals are stronger coz I have a proven record..I still have the rotors and the 3mm seals for reference..

I am using 2mm at the moment on my new rebuild..but do believe that 3mm were stronger-many would say that when a detonation occurs nothing stops the seals from breaking and I share the same thoughts...but given what I said earlier, I think 3mm does helps..  

syed
I am building a Genuine Fastest Street Rotary!
No Cutting and No Removals
Love FDs. Currently own:
20b-Triple Rotor,Single turbo FD
13B- Two Rotor, 2000spec on Stock Twins-FD
13B- Two Rotor, Single Turbo FD
Quote:
Originally Posted by youngone 
It takes some money for engineering a proper 20b

My C

Prof

I had 3mm seals det in a 13b - so they do break - and they make bigger holes in the rotors too :rollin
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Brett

In most cases I\'ve only ever seen 3mm seals used where there is wear in the slot, and milling out the slot to take a new 3mm seal would reduce the risk of 2mm seal rolling and wedging.  As has been stated by others, I\'ve not seen a great deal of evidence to suggest benefits either way.

Usually material is a bigger factor, but different materials are quite pricey! :Giggle
Brap Brap Brap Brap

mx1311

#12
3mms respond to det just as bad as 2mms, they cause more damage when they crap themselves too, if anything the weakspot with 3mms is the cornerseal


....e pic but you get the idea, i tested 3mms to destruction(note detonation ;) ) and were far worse than 2mm\'s in terms of damage caused as most of the 2mms went out the exhaust (note detonation ;) )


was all done on a bone stock block and same tune  :)

colum

Nik da Greek

Quote from: mx1311;737560....e pic but you get the idea, i tested 3mms to destruction(note detonation ;) )
Detonation noted :eek: Damn, that\'s a big dent, dude :2eek!

ssn11

cheers for the info guys starting to understand it all know haha
 
Quote from: clive;737384Hi Sean,
 
Do you know who built the engine before you stripped it as it may be an idea to find out if the tips used were Mazda or aftermarket ones as your rotors would have been sized for the tips that have been used

it was an american company that built the engine before i got the car, found there company sticker on the block.. pettit racing.