Why Rotary Engine blows..

[tinker-27]

Maybe it will be 6th time lucky for you !

[Grant Monkhouse]

Now now, no fighting gents.

[turbotoaster]

its easy.

I really dont understand what this big thing about rotarys blowing up all the time.


Its nothing to do with it being a rotary!!!

Engines just dont break for no reason, anyone who tells you otherwise is a retard, voodoo or karma is a load of rubbish aswell.


the only reason any engine breaks is if you exceed one of its tolerances.

This can be electrical fault in the harness causing the engine to run to lean or run to much ignition.

Or something break inside the engine, again thats because your pushing it beyond its limitations.

If you learn what each part of the engines individual limitations are then you will not break a rotary no matter how hard you hammer it.



Like Pete mentions detonation kills engines very easily, there should be no detonation anywhere on an engine, if your getting that then its your own fault and it deserves to blow up.

One thing pete didnt mention was pre-ignition of fuel, because rotarys run so hot its possible for the fuel to pre-ignite before its had chance for the plugs to do there jobs, this isnt normally heard on the det cans so the mapper is working away and the engine suddenly breaks.

In these scenerios people just throw there hands in the air and say it must be the rotarys fault.....its not, its the mapper exceeding the tolerances of that engine, he should have either run the engine slightly richer(its harder to ignite more fuel hence gives it the adequate time to reach the plugs) fit a more effecient intercooler/chargecooler to lower inlet temps or fit w/i

Water injection is so important as it mixes with the fuel to slow down the burn process so it doesnt become suseptable to pre-ignition as easily, allowing the fuel to get to the plugs and do its job properly.

Similar to this is dropping the air inlet temperature, its not effective as w/i but the lower the temps the less chance of pre-ignition.

My engine is an example of this, in my last car running stock twins i was peaking at 20psi(then letting it slowly drop boost as rpm rose as ran out of fuel) the torque was actually decent in the midrange at that boost compared to 15psi like most run.

I didnt run any w/i, what i did was run a massive 4.8in thick intercooler to allow my inlet temps to stay in the low 20s which offset the boost, my knock went lower at 20psi on big cooler compared to 15psi on stock mount cooler.


Never blame a rotary engine for yours or your mappers failings.....you have exceeded the tolerances somewhere along the lines, fix that problem you will wonder what all the fuss is about.

[Mir]

Maybe it will be 6th time lucky for you !

Thanks, it\'s not the 6th for me, it\'s the 20 Fds I m moaning abt,

[Ginteal]

Detonation #1

What causes this ^

Factory ECU faults (I know for experience!) if you record everything though and can prove it like I did you will get compensated :Ladys-man

(Turbo rotaries)
If you want them to be reliable (factory f7ck ups aside) then the common killers are high power and heat, the best way to counter this is water injection regardless of the fuel type you are feeding it.

Water Injection is the savior of all turbocharged road cars, it takes out allot of heat stress associated with these types of engines, I have a page on http://www.bcduplication.com" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0) ! important; text-decoration: none ! important; cursor: default ! important;">cd duplication that goes into some more detail here > http://www.riceracing.com.au/water-injection.htm good reading about how to make a rotary engine reliable at high power and still have a true street car that runs on petrol you can buy anywhere in the world.

Other classics that blow up especially turbo rotaries is the wrong spark plug! (yes this simple) first high duty power run and if you have the wrong heat range plug you can detonate your engine, expensive lesson to learn for newbies or people taking internet random un qualified advise from single car build up experts.

Poor tuning, could be listed as #1 by some, but again if your tuner of shop has no history of leading the way with turbo rotary road cars, then pic some one who has, one wrong calibration and BOOM!

Aside from this there are literally dozens more things that can cause you pain and a rebuild but they are far more random. SO long as you have basic heat management in control, no faulty hardware or software, and a well credentialed tuner, then you will have a reliable long lasting rotary engine.

Couldnt have said it better myself.......