Beaten by the car

[Shark]

Well, I got lots of good advice from FDUK, I got the pads from Shy, Smifta came round, and between both of us, after well over an hour of effort, the caliper bolts are not budging.  I need some advice on how to get those buggers off!  :reallymad
Also, once the wheel was off there are 2 sets of bolts top and bottom I presume the smaller bolts (14mm) are the caliper bolts to be removed. :confused:

We tried taking a hammer to the spanner, even used a trolley jack to try and lift the spanner and all that happened was the spanner started to bend.  Drenched the nuts in WD40 and went back at it with the hammer and (obviously) lots of pulling, pushing and grunting (ooh-er)  

The only thing I can think of now is to go to a garage and get them to take the bolts off for me (I assume they have power tools for such things?) and then put them back on (not stupidly tight this time) so that I can then get the damn things off myself to change the pads.    Any other ideas?  I really want to do this myself so such a simple things as not being able to free up the bolts is pretty frustrating.

At least I got the oil changed today so something useful happened.  :rolleyes:

Any ideas, thoughts, comments, or suggestions will be very welcome!!

Gregor

[MikeLMR]

a decent set of single hex sockets and a breaker bar should do it, be carefull not to round them off.

[SCOOMER]

Id try some heat on their mate, i sheared one of the bolts in half with brute force!

 It took about a hour too get the rest of the stud out with a bit of heat and moderate swearing!!!!

Scott.

[yonner]

heat on tight bolts douse work wonders but u do need to be patcient u got an aircomprsor? 400ft1/b buzz gun usualy works  

[antnicuk]

Hi,
I read this thread yesterday and was i little worried as i today i was due to fit new vented and drilled discs alround with new pads.   I could invisage the same problems.  something to try on yours as it worked with mine.  Dont use WD40, get a small hammer and hit the bolts and the surrounding area with lots and lots of SMALL hits. Then before you undo it, try pinching it up a little tighter, only a bit, but this will just \'break\' the corrossion holding it in place.  Then try undoing it.   It worked n all mine today.

[Brett]

Be careful when doing the disc\'s, if you start getting excessive with the hammering and heating you will knacker the wheel bearing.

 As for the caliper bolts, .5" drive socket set with a breaker bar.

[Shark]

I had another crack on Sunday and the WD40 seemed to have had some effect overnight.  Either that or the weetabix ads ain\'t lying.  I did hammer the bolts to free the corrosion and then it was just bloody minded persistence with a combination of hex sockets and eventually a ring spanner.

I did the passenger side the hard way, taking the 14mm bolts out, sliding the whole assembly off the disc and replacing the pads from the inside.  This took about 2 hours - largely due to the fiddle it is to get the pads in with a certain little spring which was cursed blind by me in the process.  - didn\'t help that I had to do it 3 times as I didn;t wind the caliper pot back far enough the first 2 times.  DOH!  At least I know how to replace the discs as well now though.

The drivers side was a much easier affair, taking only about 20 minutes removing the 17mm bolts and only taking the floating assembly off then replacing pads from the outside.  - am missing the spring from that side so a phone call to Tim/Jimmy\'s is in the offing....

It was nice to do it both ways and get more familiar with the system, but I\'d strongly advise anyone else to take off the floating caliper only.  Too much fuss the other way but it is possible.  I\'d also say that a trolley jack is very handy for supporting the assembly whilst you work on things.

Just back from a long trip to CPL today so they\'re bedded in nicely.

Now goona have to find some time to do the front pads......:cool