walbro install issue

[1990_fc3s_t2]

Went to fit the walbro today and got stuck do i have to cut the metal hard line to fit the pump? I didnt think you did so thought i better ask! :confused:

Thanks :o

[m1tch]

Mate, I got the same kit, thats the series 4 kit, not the series 5 kit, you need to trim that lil black bit, 1 sec I will try and find a pic of how mine looked....

Here is the completed pump

[Koose]

I cut mine, and two others ive seen cut theres. Also had to do it on a previous car. In an ideal world itd be nice for everything to be plug and play, but alas, many times it isnt. Mine would physically work, but the oem fuel supply connector and walbro pump feed neck are different sizes, and so dont fit together properly.

[1990_fc3s_t2]

Cool, thanks ill go give that a blast! nearly chopped off the end of the hard line, although dont suppose it would have mattered too much!

Cheers :-) :Thumbs-up

[1990_fc3s_t2]

I cut mine, and two others ive seen cut theres. Also had to do it on a previous car. In an ideal world itd be nice for everything to be plug and play, but alas, many times it isnt. Mine would physically work, but the oem fuel supply connector and walbro pump feed neck are different sizes, and so dont fit together properly.

Found someone else that cut it here http://www.rx7turbo.com/fuelpump.htm
So guess it doesnt matter how its done. but i think the cutting method would give a better seal? Il see how it goes!
Thanks for the quick replies :wave

[Koose]

Found someone else that cut it here http://www.rx7turbo.com/fuelpump.htm
So guess it doesnt matter how its done. but i think the cutting method would give a better seal? Il see how it goes!
Thanks for the quick replies :wave

Yeah cutting it was the only sensible way of doing it when i did mine, Mitch may well have had a different pump or kit as he mentioned. But my kit supposedly for a UK S5 89-91 just wouldnt have worked any other way.

Only other advice is be sure and do it nice and neat, slow and careful, heatshrink connections, and whatever you do (as i learnt from a new friend on here) dont trap any wires or anything in the cap (the top \'lid\' that bolts down and seals the tank) as this will mean your system is not pressurised and as we know, on fuel injection, you really need good to pressure to avoid air fuel issues.

[1990_fc3s_t2]

Thanks again bud, ended up cutting it off with the grinder, all good except the electrical connectors i had are too small for the new pump wires. So gave up till another day! :Giggle
Now the car\'s stuck outside getting wet till i get it done! Damn weather was gorgeous when i brought it out. :mad:

[festa]

hi mate,
 
do you still need the power stering loop, IE I can make u a copper one for free
cheers

[m1tch]

Don\'t forget that the car will run stupidly rich on idle now if you don\'t have a fpr or fuel pump resistor smells good though

[Koose]

Don\'t forget that the car will run stupidly rich on idle now if you don\'t have a fpr or fuel pump resistor smells good though

How come ?

[Prof]

The stock pressure regulator can\'t handle full pump pressure, so the pump is \'throttled back\' be a series resistor which is in circuit on idle and low revs.  As soon as you give it beans, the relay shorts out the resistor so the pump sees the full 12V and full pressure.
 
Walbro pumps take half the current of the stock pump to produce the same fuel delivery, so the resistor is actually too small a value for them, hence quite a few people end up running rich after the pump swap.
 
If you have an aftermarket FPR this isn\'t an issue.

[Koose]

adjustable fprs scare me !! Seen so many adjust themselves and its onlynoticed when theyve come to the rolling road.

[Koose]

Im slowly realising how fiddly these are to tune, all my previous cars have just been full exhaust and decat, intake, bit more boost and in some cases a remap. It seems with these, you cand do anything without having to do several other things haha. For example,

I bought a decat and cat back,which meant i had toget a fcd, but then my fuelling may not be great, so i bought a chipped ecu which was mapped for intake too, so i had to get an intake the fitting of the ecu also required fitment of a walbro, which means an FPR or fully programmable ecu may be required.....then with the boost up, it means i really want acooler intake so a different intercooler will be needed, and maybe some bigger injectors!!  and all of this will culminate in me wearing my engine out quicker!! haha.

Im starting to understand the love hate rotory.

[m1tch]

All the supporting mods are to make sure the engine is ok, don\'t forget once the car has a few bolt on parts like that, it will be running say 275bhp+ which is like 40% above stock power and its just a few bolt on bits, at 275bhp the engine is producing 211bhp per litre of displacement, the inefficient veyron only managed 125bhp per litre efficiency + ease of tune = rotary win

[Prof]

Im slowly realising how fiddly these are to tune, all my previous cars have just been full exhaust and decat, intake, bit more boost and in some cases a remap. It seems with these, you cand do anything without having to do several other things haha. For example,
 
I bought a decat and cat back,which meant i had toget a fcd, but then my fuelling may not be great, so i bought a chipped ecu which was mapped for intake too, so i had to get an intake the fitting of the ecu also required fitment of a walbro, which means an FPR or fully programmable ecu may be required.....then with the boost up, it means i really want acooler intake so a different intercooler will be needed, and maybe some bigger injectors!! and all of this will culminate in me wearing my engine out quicker!! haha.
 
Im starting to understand the love hate rotory.

If you put exhaust and intake on without modding anything else - you just hit fuel cut - so it\'s not the end of the world, you just don\'t get to use the top end that you\'ve now unleashed.
 
With regards to the fuel pump swap - if you do the swap, all that normally happens is that the car runs a wee bit richer at idle / lower revs, provided you still have air pump and emissions stuff it will pass MOT, but I didn\'t notice any other ill effect from only doing that mod.
 
Regarding the FCD / Chipped ECU - you only want one of them - and preferably the latter one  You don\'t need to put the rest of the goodies on the car to support the Chipped ECU - without them, the stock components will limit the boost to an already mapped area which is safe, doing it the other way around means that the engine / ancillaries can take the engine to places not in the stock map - which is not good
 
For full tuning, eliminating the oil metering pump, running big boost or big single turbo\'s or eliminating lots of the stock engine harness then you need to go after market ECU.
 
This is quite a good guide to the tuning stages for FC\'s:
 
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FM2W/power.htm
 
I\'ve got to somewhere between stage IV+ and V+ with the stock ECU and a piggy back and probably about as far as you can with the stock ecu still running things - it was running around 370bhp at the fly before I had to rebuild it for water seal failure, and currently I am just under 300bhp with some tuning work to do again - it was running 17 psi boost before the rebuild, I\'m up to 10 at the moment but far too rich - hence my afr project