Blown Engine after 4000 miles? cant be can it? :(

[hazza_ek]

heya everyone really need some help! just over 4000 miles ago i had my engine rebuilt by reworxs and since then hasnt put a foot wrong! until.....
 
i was pulling away from the traffic lights, not hard as i had only been driving 10-15 mins when i heard a horrible metal screeching sound and straight away the boost gauge was fluctuating and idle was rough as .......s. there was no power when i tried to put my foot down so pulled into the petrol station and switched the car off straight away!
 
5 mins later i turned it back on to see if there was any change but still it sounded like a god damn scooby
 
so long story short, got towed home parked in the garage and left it for the night!
 
next day tried starting and wouldnt even turn on! it sounds like its a dead battery almost when trying to start. if it was a blown engine would it sound like this?
 
another wierd thing is that all the interior lights and stereo works apart from the power fc commander and my Trust Profec E-01 Boost controller dosnt work? could it be a problem with the ecu?
 
any help would be greatly appriciated

[francovel3]

damn if that blown thats like the 3rd 7 to go this month, have you tried jumping it with a battery pack also you sure you did not boot the car as the same thing happend to me last year and i blew a tip, put a vid up if you get it running.

[Rex_FTW]

What was your oil level?

Did the car overheat?

Does it sound like a tractor?

Check the map sensor hasn\'t come off

[m1tch]

If it has im sure its still under warranty? What work was done when it was rebuilt? New seals etc?

[Nik da Greek]

Blown Engine after 4000 miles? cant be can it?

Yes.

Yours has done well. Mine lasted 1100 miles before it broke a tip

[hazza_ek]

Oil was changed 40miles ago lol didn\'t overheat mate just sounded like a scooby. Map sensor??? How do I check that? Lol yer the engine had a complete overhaul. Rear rotor and housing, tips etc

Luckily if it is a rebuild it\'s still in warranty!

[DR SCHNITZEL]

Would love to hear of a warranty being honoured. hope you get it sorted lads

[trotter]

If she sounds like a tractor (proper diesel-esque grumbly noise instead of nice growl), boost gauge is all over the shop and you have no power then im afraid it sounds like you\'ve thrown a tip.

The MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor is a wee black box on the firewall behind the upper inlet manifold. it says Denso on it and has a vacuum line running to the manifold. If the hose is loose or split then she\'ll run like a bag of spanners. might be worth a look.

[suba]

My car would still start with 2 blown tips on the rear rotor, and one on the front - with a hoof of the throttle though!

It will sound rough but the car will shake at idle as well - mine was driveable under boost - but could not get more than 0.5 bar.  Pulling away from a standstill was interesting.

I had no issues at all with the electrics.

I really hope that this is not another rebuild - mine is in bits at the moment, and when it\'s back together it had better last more than 4,000 miles.

I\'d really like to know why re-built engines are failing so quickly - if it\'s oil starvation or fueling issues - or a poorly specced car being thrashed at high boost I can understand it, but a well maintained car pulling away from a junction sedately - this has got to be a build issue, or is it really the case that a tuned rotary is THAT unreliable?:Hammer

[Ed_RX7]

depends how long since the rebuild for a warranty claim.

[Rex_FTW]

My car would still start with 2 blown tips on the rear rotor, and one on the front - with a hoof of the throttle though!

It will sound rough but the car will shake at idle as well - mine was driveable under boost - but could not get more than 0.5 bar.  Pulling away from a standstill was interesting.

I had no issues at all with the electrics.

I really hope that this is not another rebuild - mine is in bits at the moment, and when it\'s back together it had better last more than 4,000 miles.

I\'d really like to know why re-built engines are failing so quickly - if it\'s oil starvation or fueling issues - or a poorly specced car being thrashed at high boost I can understand it, but a well maintained car pulling away from a junction sedately - this has got to be a build issue, or is it really the case that a tuned rotary is THAT unreliable?:Hammer

I think ancillaries play a big part. These cars are now 15 years old so the ancillaries will probably need changing. It is best to check as these can cause an engine to go.

The map is VITALLY important to the life of the car and simple things like checking oil levels, checking hoses aren\'t split etc will go a long way.

And to answer your question... no rotarys are not unreliable.

[hazza_ek]

10 months ago the rebuild was done. I maintain the car regardless of cost oil water spark plugs every 2000-3000 miles. Very rarely drive the car "hard". Obviously put my foot down onto motorway but nothing too stupid. .... take that it\'s gone again though.

Not sure y it isnt even starting though? Get it down to reworxs and I\'m sure they\'ll figure out wats gone wrong. Can\'t see it being a build issue as they r top blokes down there!

[m1tch]

You might have flooded the engine if you have kept trying to restart it, what condition are the cooling system etc like, also have to changed the HT leads, might find that one lead might have gone and just meant that the engine is only getting a spark to a single rotor etc

[Hi RX7]

Bad news, take it back or get it back to Re-Worx and let them have a look I wouldn\'t do anything till they have seen it.

[DR SCHNITZEL]

I think ancillaries play a big part. These cars are now 15 years old so the ancillaries will probably need changing. It is best to check as these can cause an engine to go.
 
The map is VITALLY important to the life of the car and simple things like checking oil levels, checking hoses aren\'t split etc will go a long way.
 
And to answer your question... no rotarys are not unreliable.

I disagree, most rotary owners KNOW rotaries are unreliable. Apart from the naive and lucky few ones.
 
Rotary owners preach how reliable they are...then they throw a tip on thier 1st 2nd and 3rd engine. then they just keep quiet about the subject (like i did). I used to get from people  " heard these things are unreliable " i used to swear blind that they were not.
 
Now i say to people yes they are unreliable but alot of fun when they work.
 
My engine ive just built will make 500 fwhp and im expecting it to last a few track days and thats it. if i get more great if (if it doesnt it hasnt cost alot). i am not going to pay 4k for an engine that may last only a few k. i can do 4 builds for that and it just makes sense (now ive done it once, last week).
 
Going by the "old ancillaries logic" people who want a reliable rotary need to spend 4k on a rebuild then another 4k + on brand new mazda ancilliaries?. so is a reliable engine going to cost 8 grand?? then is that going to pop early anyway due to it running high hp?
 
for 4k you can get a good car
for 8k you can get one hell of a better car
 
i couldnt justify putting a 4k plus engine in my shell. my fd is 18 years old and is really starting to look and feel it too. It just doesnt make economic sense anymore.
 
As far as the MAP goes. it means nothing if an ancil is busted or u get boost spike or your rotors are out of tolerace or any other part of your engine. Why do people keep going on about maps buy a map, map again.
 
sort your afrs out use a standard timing map and thats it. get an afr gauge mount it on your tacho and get piece of mind. wait for your engine to go pop cos the spark plug end broke or something else.
 
i love you all. good night