Right, need help on FC wheels

Started by m1tch, July 02, 2010, 10:15:06 PM

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m1tch

Ok guys, I am going to try and run 15s up front and 25s at the back, sadgoth, are those directly bolted on? I guess the extra 3mm is all you need lol

sadgoth

no the fronts had 10mm of spacer on them I had real issues clearing the front struts and also the arch liner on full lock, but with 10mm of spacer they were fine
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

m1tch

Ok, well I am going to go with 15s up front as thats the smallest bolt ons I can get lol and 25s on the rear :)

When I get them I will post a pic up of what its like lol its going to look so illegal I think lol :D

papercutout

BTW, with the 15mm - make sure you get the CORRECT short headed bolts with them. We had to cut down some normal bolt heads the other day - got them tightened up etc OK, but it\'s pretty damn sketchy tbh!

m1tch

Quote from: papercutout;703603BTW, with the 15mm - make sure you get the CORRECT short headed bolts with them. We had to cut down some normal bolt heads the other day - got them tightened up etc OK, but it\'s pretty damn sketchy tbh!

How do you mean short headed bolts?

papercutout

(I meant nuts, not bolts) Think about a normal nut - it\'s more than 15mm tall. If the nut is more than 15mm tall it\'ll stick out proud of the spacer, which means the wheel, when you try bolting it on, will sit on the tops of the other nuts, not the spacer.

Want me to draw a piccie? I don\'t feel I\'m explaining well.

redgti

if you buy 15mm spacers they should come with correct size/depth nuts with a taper to fit in the spacer. Only thing needed is to shorten the studs unless the wheel has  recess on the back.

L18M

Quote from: papercutout;703673(I meant nuts, not bolts) Think about a normal nut - it\'s more than 15mm tall. If the nut is more than 15mm tall it\'ll stick out proud of the spacer, which means the wheel, when you try bolting it on, will sit on the tops of the other nuts, not the spacer.

Want me to draw a piccie? I don\'t feel I\'m explaining well.

Quote from: redgti;703678if you buy 15mm spacers they should come with correct size/depth nuts with a taper to fit in the spacer. Only thing needed is to shorten the studs unless the wheel has  recess on the back.

well worded by redgti BUT ben, draw a pic anyway.. just for fun :p
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

m1tch

Quote from: papercutout;703673(I meant nuts, not bolts) Think about a normal nut - it\'s more than 15mm tall. If the nut is more than 15mm tall it\'ll stick out proud of the spacer, which means the wheel, when you try bolting it on, will sit on the tops of the other nuts, not the spacer.

Want me to draw a piccie? I don\'t feel I\'m explaining well.

Its ok mate, I get you, I think the inside of the rims hub is slightly recesses to allow for spacer nuts anyway:



But I will check with DM Motorsport when I order them off him, he only sells spacers down to 15mm, so im thinking he doesn\'t do 10mm spacers due to this issue with protrusion.

papercutout

Those recesses are for balancing/keep weight down during manufacture, the nuts with the spacers wouldn\'t fit in there!

Saying all this, original FC wheel nuts are UBER short anyway. As you said, just check!

m1tch

Ok, I have now got my 25mm spacers for the rear, still waiting on the 15mm spacers for the front from DM motorsport to arrive, plus I need some locking wheel nuts, but here are the rears fitted, it seems that 25mm spacers are spot on, they clear everything at the rear including the heatshield and shock along with the radius arm :D

Here are some photos of fitting, I think I can get away with just rolling the rear arches, the wheel/tyres are proud by about 1-2cms

Spacers:



How far they are out on the rear:



Look good (I have lowering springs in my room, but might leave them like this for a bit)



Its going well:



Where did the centres go? :D



530mms of rubber on the rear, should be ok for grip I think :)


papercutout

Good work then mate! Yeah, the arches will roll that distance easy, mine have gone about an inch either side.

Actually, I\'d lower the car before you have them rolled - wheels tuck a significant amount on these, I am uber low and have a reasonable amount of camber at the back now! The only thing you might want done is the inner lip folding flat with a roller, no flare at all.


As for grip - hell yeah, my car struggles to spin up 225/45\'s so you\'ll be VERY \'lucky\' to get wheelspin :D

m1tch

Ah ok :) hmm well I have a set of -40s in my room, how much will they tuck? I don\'t know when I will/if I will be lowering them as the OEM suspension is good for drag launches and stuff. Plus I have a front splitter that might detach itself from the car like the original one did (Found screws and plastic shards from when I got the car lol)

My car spun up eagle F1s on the OEM 205s in 2rd in the dry...need more rubber on the rear for the power increase next year :)

papercutout

To be fair, if you want to keep it set up for drag racing then keep stock height to maximise squat. Either a slight flare or some universal bolt on arches would be good to go.
It\'d be nice to see it at a \'proper\' ride height, but it\'d not help you for launches.

If I fit a stock TII front splitter on my car it\'s 3 fingers from the road :D

m1tch

How much more would it tuck on -40s?