my 200mph rx7 build

[turbotoaster]

decided to sort out the wiring for the wideband tonight, get it labelled  and sleeved, as ill hook it all tomorow and dont fancy being sat  underneath my dash all day, now just need to connect to ground and find a  ignition 12v live and im done


 
 

[rx jamie]

excellent thread, been watching this since day one

[Ed_RX7]

I told you the xd16 would give you problems.

[turbotoaster]

the led on the setup didnt work but apart from that its been ok, replaced that with an led that works down to 1.5v and its sorted, yes ideally that wouldnt be the case but its not the end of the world

[turbotoaster]

i copied this from another forum so be aware its aimed at none rotary people, just thought id stick it on here for an update


Well recieved my water pump pulley yesterday so decided to get it fitted.


Now you might think this is just a bit of bling but this has a fundemental change to the belt system on an rx7

due to the nature of a rotary engine, they require alot of fuel to pretty much do anything, which means when idleing they put out alot of crap.

very strict emmisions around the world has caused problems for the rotary engine so what the designers did was fit a belt driven pump onto the engine that pumps pure air into the exhaust system to fool the MOT places into thinking the casr pumps out very little fumes.

It also has the effect of helping to cool the cat, an average piston engine when pushed very hard will get up to 1300-1400f exhaust gas temperatures, a rotary will put that sort of temps out cruising, and can get up to 1800f flat out, as you can imagine its very easy to cook a cat in that situation, infact its a very common thing on rotarys that they can cause the cat to infact collapse from this.

Now on my engine i have removed the cat, so pump is purely a parasitic loss that is just pumping air to an open ended pipe under the car, plus it will be in the way when i fit my big turbo

If you look at where water filler cap is, you can just see the pump the left hand side of it with a pipe coming off the top which feeds the pump its fresh air.


This is then removed and looks like this, weights 5kg aswell so another little weight saving cant hurt.


Leaves this gap here, you can now see the front turbo and another black bracket that helped hold the pump, this is then removed.


we then remove the original water pulley, the reason this is removed is because the pulley runs off the outside of the belt, while normally this is fine as 60% is in contact so theres no slippage, with the pump removed this becomes an issue.

so we replace the waterpump pulley with one that has rougher outer edge as you can see from the picture to gain back some of that friction


installation is pretty easy, just use the 4 new bolts provided and bolt back up


next up is replacing the alternator pulley, this is partially to make it look better than the stock one and also because the pulley is larger it makes choosing a new belt much easier as you can use a standard 78cm belt.
This was a bit of a pain in the arse to get off, ended up using a mates impact gun as i bent a screwdriver trying to hold the alternator internals in place while unscrewing the bolt.
]

once bolted up i put my new belt on


one issue ive had with my new radiator is that because the inlet pipe doesnt stick out enough, my air filters have been pushing on the waterpipe which meant the rad fan was catching the pipe....as you can imagine thats gonna end in disaster so now i have all this extra space with the airpump gone i decided to move my airfilters back into the engine back to relieve the pressure on the water pipe.



started it up and all sorted, i know its only a small update, but slowly getting there

[Grant Monkhouse]

Turbotoaster, i remeber you saying you used to have a renault 5gtt?, my friend has got one in his garden which is decaying into a pile of metal rot, he does not want to get rid of the car as he really likes it and even after months/years of sitting there not running all he has to do is charge the battery and it starts.
   What i would like to know is that if he purchased a non turbo renault 5 to transfer the engine and bits over into the non rotten shel, would it fit in and are the shells exactly the same? or do the turbo models have stronger chassis rails?
   How is the rx coming along? have you sorted yourself out for new system yet? or are you saving up the funds?

[turbotoaster]

Hey Grant.

The chassis are exactly the same, its just the bodykit and holes in the bodypanels for fitting the bodykit thats the difference.

If he can find a low mileage mint non-turbo chassis then go for it. He will need to take off all the underpinings, suspension from the turbo as they are different etc.

If you can get the rear torsion setup of the r5 van then get that as its more robust.



on the rx7 front, ive fitted my 850cc primarys and done most of the mapping on them so that should cover me for a little bit while i progress on.

Probably the biggest thing now is i finally have a sponsor!

A company called Enhanced Performance is going to help me achieve my goals which is gonna be a massive help as they have a full garage setup with dd rolling road.

Im hoping to pop down to them in the next few weeks to get my cooler fitted so we can turn the boost up properly from 15psi to around 18psi and crack 400bhp+

Next thing after that is getting my CDI ignition with coils from dynapak, thats £400 so maybe september i think for that.

[Grant Monkhouse]

That\'s a big help then, are they sponsoring you on the money front or mainly on build time etc?
  My mate has been looking at non turbo chassis and there is a complete car, rust free for 150 quid, so once he gets his compo I think he will get it. I had told him that dropping the engine and gear box with all the front end out would be the quickest way to sort the swap.

[turbotoaster]

its advisable to just take the turbo body shell and throw it away, use everything else and bolt it to the non-turbo body and have fun.

Also the skys your limit on horsepower, theres one guy running 10s quarters with the original 1.4 engine

[m1tch]

You not go with Gilmer pulleys?

[turbotoaster]

gilmer pulleys means i would need to run a fc waterpump because the fd pump works the opposite way round hence it wouldnt work.

[Grant Monkhouse]

its advisable to just take the turbo body shell and throw it away, use everything else and bolt it to the non-turbo body and have fun.

Also the skys your limit on horsepower, theres one guy running 10s quarters with the original 1.4 engine

I know they can have high stupid hp, seen a few feature cars, was actually quite suprised how much room there is in there for the turbo considering the size of the car and engine bay! He doesn\'t want to spend money on it, just wants to be able to drive it as they are, in his words " like driving a go-kart "!

[rx jamie]

gilmer pulleys means i would need to run a fc waterpump because the fd pump works the opposite way round hence it wouldnt work.

not really mate, green brothers do an fd gilmer kit that allows you to keep the fd water pump.  if it was me personally id be using an electric water pump anyway the sort of temperatures you\'ll be running for top speed runs. im running mine circuit and sprint and im ditching my stock water pump.

[rx jamie]

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65339

[turbotoaster]

again its just extra money that doesnt need spending, yes id love alot of the things that people keep suggesting to me but the budget doesnt cover for it unfortunately.

If i spent 20k doing this project, noone would be interested as it would just be like a cheque book car which anyone could do.

I need to be careful where i spend the money.

Ive put £330 to one side for the moment which will go towards my ignition system as thats £400 so hopefully that shouldnt be a long wait to get, i only know one person who is running the same setup as me in the UK but hes originally from OZ where they know what they are doing