FD UIM & TB on TII

[pdtaylor18]

So got to grips with the latest mod to the car mating a FD UIM and throttle body to my FC. Its been done many times before but I thought I would get something up on here to show the progress and some sort of step by step process.

First of was to source a good FD UIM and TB, just so happens that I came across a virtually as new setup, in fact the TB is brand new with new sensors etc.
There are two ways you can mate the two together either by making an adapter spacer or by doing lots of grinding to the UIM and LIm to ensure all the tubes line up. I opted for a spacer as its then simply plug and play. It was also a bit of fun making the spacer which cost a whole £2 to make (cost of the ali)

Once I had made the spacer it was time to do a trial fit and see what else needed to be done:

Modify oil filler tube
TPS wire into S5 loom
Relocate power steering
Throttle cable

[pdtaylor18]

So the first thing is to modify the oil filler tube, here i am simply going to remove from the block and shorten by about an inch. Its only about 10mm needed but would arther have good clearance as the last thing we want is any fretting in that area. This I will post later when its done.

The next problem will be the throttle cable, in the US the use their original as theres are longer as they drive on the left hand side and their cables loop around so plenty to play with. With our right hand drive cars then its just way to short so i will have to come up with something here even if I have to buy the left hand drive cable. The cruise is also too short but I can get a cable that will fit for there as its not as important.

[pdtaylor18]

The next to do is relocate the power steering and I am simply going to move lower down as I have modified my steering bracket. I will post this bit up when its done. I should be able to retain the standard flow and return hoses as this mod has been done before.
With the trial fit the only thing in the way is the tensioner pulley which is a shame as the standard FD inlet tube fits nicely in the gap as shown in the pic.

The next will be the TPS and I shall do a write up on that bit later as well.


This mod is being done mainly for the looks but its been prooven to gain torque and a little BHP but when you look at just how much room is available under the UIM it does clean things up a lot. I use a FD IAT anyway so the rest of the bolt on stuff to the UIM will be sold. All totally brand new as well.

If anyone has any input because they have done this mod then please post on here so that it can become a good reference for anyone else. Any info is most welcome.

[TRIND-FD]

:Thumbs-up Looking good mate.
 
keith.

[pdtaylor18]

Well one of my questions will be:

Which throttle cable? Left hand drive FC or will a FD one fit?

[pdtaylor18]

So the next bit was to cut the existing oil filler tube, this is only a push fit into the iron and will take some force to get it free, gentle sideways taps seem to do the job and rotate it every now and then until it pops free. I cut about 25mm of mine but to be honest that was only just enough so something in the region of 40mm will be good. The tube will foul the underneath of the standard inlet tube if its not cut down. Or if you can get one then you can just fit the FD one.
As I had access to the injectors I decided to tidy everything underneath as it would now be quite visible and rewrapped everything in heat resistant rubberised tape, As much as people loathe to do this mod the access you have is quite simply brillient and well worth doing for this reason alone.

I fitted the FD throttle cable which although only about 4" too long, it fits the bulkhead and pedal the same as the FC and all I have to do is route it carefully to take some of the slack up.  
For the cruise cable I will mod the original, just needs to be about 12" longer.

I am using a standard FD inlet tube for now as its what I have got and my Trust intercooler has the inlet and outlets pointing towards the drivers side so the routing is infact a lot easier.

I have also lowered my powersteering pump by a good 6" and everything fits without any problems. The only thing I need to do is re-work the oil cooler rubber pipe as thats too much of a bend but easier enough to put right.



It all fitted together really well and as I am waiting for a Greddy Compression tube I decided to fit a standard FD inlet tube. My intercooler inlet and outlets all point to the drivers side so in my case this is the best option anyway.

[pdtaylor18]

All thats left to do now is the power steering belt, this needs to be shorter by a few inches, I shall measure it up and get one from halfords, I\'ll post up the size.
 I still need to wire up the Throttle positioning sensor, I have a plug that will fit my existing loom so only a bit of splicing needed here.
Clamps for the intercooler need to go on but I am happy with the test fit and is at least 2 foot shorter in tubing so that can only be good.

Still need to fit the catch tank and my 2 stroke oil can,going in the same place so no problems there.

The one thing I forgot to mention was that you have to be careful with the alternator electrical connector as that will foul the TB, you can orientate that downwards to give a better clearance.

[monterx7]

how was lowering the p/s bracekt?  did you just drill holes a few inches above the original mounting holes then cut off the extra?
 
everything turned out very nice pete

[pdtaylor18]

Pretty much cut off the aircon portion of it, I then had to make a new hole and put some spacers behind it to fit correctly. You retain one of the original holes which is good as that will get everything aligned correctly, I elongated my new hole to get it perfect. Time will tell if the belt stays on.I did try the FD bracket and that fits extremely well and is the ideal choice with the FD pump but I will have to replace all the pullies for FD ones. I did try mating the FC pulley onto a FD pump but the FC is a keyway fit and the FD is a splined drive. It can be done with a bit of clever engineering.
The room the lowered steering pump gives is quite staggering, it will give me room to do whatever i like intercooler wise later on without reducing the tube diameter as you would before. That or go electric pump.  This is just a free alternative for those wishing to go front mount and still retain a 3" intercooler pipe throughout. Even the 2.5" is a tight squeeze between a standard fit pump and the inner wing.

The Halfords belt size is a 900C, you can go a bit bigger but not much more.

[pdtaylor18]

Power steering belt is a 950C, max to go is a 970 so not much room to play with, the 900 was too short.
The TPS I set up at idle with my datalogit with 1v but this can be done with a fluke of some sort.
I set the TB up as per a few similar ways I\'ve heard before,mainly setting the throttle cable up so that it does not give any slack, adjusting the primary stop so that it does not hold th throttle open at all. I also wound the air adjust screw right in and then out 1/4 turn to set the TPS up. I then adjusted the Air adjust screw to get an idle but this prooved to a point to be doing nothing so then I adjusted the primary stop.
If anyone has another way to set the TPS and idle then please say but it does work and my TPS still shows 1v at idle.
The alternator electrical +ve connector will definately need to be orientated downwards.

The wiring for the TPS uses the same colour coding for the FC and FD but the FD has only four wires and the FC 6. This is because there are 2 +ve and 2 -ve inputs to the FC TPS so these you simply tie together. Looking at the ECU diagram they come of the same single supply and split anyway so this is the best way.
All you need to do then is simply connect the same colours up.

The one thing I have done is to tie back my secondaries to the fully open position as the FD uses a solenoid to operate the vac for it. For now this will do until I decide if there is a way of operating the secondaries without it.Failing that I will remove them but would rather keep them if I can. Might need some imput on that.

So car runs well and no issues at the moment, still playing with my map so cant really tell of any improvement but this was always about looks and reliability.