Clutch pedal adjustment

Started by m1tch, May 30, 2010, 06:35:00 PM

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m1tch

Hi everyone,

I have got my ORC 709 twin plate clutch fitted now  :D yay lol its a bit difficult to drive at the mo due to this being the first twin plate clutch I have ever had. As with all twin plate clutches the biting point is basically all the way down on the floor, I want to wind it up a bit as I know you can adjust the pedal a bit so that its a bit easier.

How do I adjust the clutch pedal? Is there a screw thread in the pedalbox for adjustment?

clive

If you slide into the drivers footwell on your back ( I kid you not) and look up behind the clutch pedal you will see the rod that goes into the back of the clutch master cylinder,

Undo the lock nut on the rod and lengthen it to bring the biting point on the pedal to where you want it

Hope this helps
All the best Clive

m1tch

Quote from: clive;696742If you slide into the drivers footwell on your back ( I kid you not) and look up behind the clutch pedal you will see the rod that goes into the back of the clutch master cylinder,

Undo the lock nut on the rod and lengthen it to bring the biting point on the pedal to where you want it

Hope this helps

I thought there might be something like that :D I checked the haynes manual and there is only 1 section on it and it is for removing, refitting and adjusting, but seems to just be talking about the fitting lol

Do I need to wind it in out out? I have to wear thin soled shoes for my car, I sit quite far forward to get max travel on throttle and clutch anyhow, and if I wear slightly too thick soled shoes my knee gets stuck under the steering wheel when the clutch pedal is fully up lol

yiug412

Sorry to steal your topic m1tch :) but its related to clutch as well.

I was driving back tonight. the clutch pedal will get stuck on the floor if i press the clutch for more than 5 secs (i was parking). Anyone had similar experience before? On the manual it says its the releasing fork thats causing that but on the net people say its the master cyclinder or worn clutch. Any ideas?

Louis
1984 Honda Civic EF single carb 1.4
1989 Nissan Cefiro A31 RB20DE
1990 Toyota MR2 Turbo SW20 3SGTE
1990 Mazda RX7 TII FC3S 13BT
2004 Mazda RX8 231 SE3P RENESIS!
1974 Leyland Mini Mk3 1000
1994 Mazda MX5 1.8i BP
2003 Mazda RX8 231... something with turbo.
Always put a smile on you when the \'beep\' goes on :chat

yiug412

just thot of a better word to describe it. It will engage itself slowly even im pushing the clutch.
1984 Honda Civic EF single carb 1.4
1989 Nissan Cefiro A31 RB20DE
1990 Toyota MR2 Turbo SW20 3SGTE
1990 Mazda RX7 TII FC3S 13BT
2004 Mazda RX8 231 SE3P RENESIS!
1974 Leyland Mini Mk3 1000
1994 Mazda MX5 1.8i BP
2003 Mazda RX8 231... something with turbo.
Always put a smile on you when the \'beep\' goes on :chat

Prof

sounds like a fluid leak of some kind - either master, slave or the flexi hose that goes into the salve cylinder from the join in the bulkhead - mine went there - and had exactly the symptoms you describe.
 
Check your fluid level in the reservoir...
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


yiug412

1984 Honda Civic EF single carb 1.4
1989 Nissan Cefiro A31 RB20DE
1990 Toyota MR2 Turbo SW20 3SGTE
1990 Mazda RX7 TII FC3S 13BT
2004 Mazda RX8 231 SE3P RENESIS!
1974 Leyland Mini Mk3 1000
1994 Mazda MX5 1.8i BP
2003 Mazda RX8 231... something with turbo.
Always put a smile on you when the \'beep\' goes on :chat

m1tch

Am I correct I have to wind the pedel out as in make the rod longer? I am worried if I do as my leg already gets trapped under the steering wheel as it is, which is why my clutch was slipping all the way down the drag strip before due to me not being able to fully take my foot of the pedal!

Prof

According to the FSM - you should have a couple of mil travel before you are actually engaging the clutch Master piston - this is to make sure the fork/bearing completely disengages from the pressure plate fingers.  There should then be sufficient travel in the clutch pedal so that the fork/bearing can push the fingers and disengage the pressure plate completely from the clutch driven plate.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


festa

Quote from: m1tch;698445Am I correct I have to wind the pedel out as in make the rod longer? I am worried if I do as my leg already gets trapped under the steering wheel as it is, which is why my clutch was slipping all the way down the drag strip before due to me not being able to fully take my foot of the pedal!

Mitch how tall are you mate it sounds like you have to ether shorten your legs or relocate your seat to fit behind the wheel

DR SCHNITZEL

Is this the same with the fd im having the same problem