Plumbing - what goes where - help plz

Started by johnf, May 28, 2010, 01:16:33 PM

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johnf

Got the new engine in but as I didn\'t take it out will be asking for help regards what goes where.

To start I could do with a pic of all the belt arrangement and routes.

I\'ve put a pic up of the next problem being what connects to what.

They\'re numbered to help explain.

Thanks

John
I started with nothing and I have most of it left

Prof

Here goes:
 
A) - Can\'t really see in that pic - so not sure
 
B) - that upright pipe from the turbo has 2 outlets - the angled one connects to the BAC valve on the side of the upper inlet manifold - the other pipe connects to either a BOV or to the recirc valve (in your pic the recirc is just under the letter E)
 
C) - is the MAP sensor - it needs to see one of the nipples on the manifold side of the throttle body. There is a suitable nipple on the Air Control Valve - just under the bac valve if you still have it fitted, or there is a small metal nipple coming from the bottom of the upper inlet manifold - under the BAC.
 
D) - is the inlet for the air pump - it\'s normally fed from a small hose coming from the airbox - but it can just have a breather filter on it.
 
E) - all looks a bit weird around there - need to get a close up of the side of your engine to see what you\'ve got fitted - is the air control valve still on the car - or is it just a blanking plate ?
 
See pic below - will give you an idea of where it comes from (it\'s the larger sloping shape with the 2 holes - that\'s where the air control valve goes or a blanking plate.
 
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=46421&d=1267794587
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Brett

E goes onto B
Pretty sure A should go onto C :)
Brap Brap Brap Brap

johnf

Better still would be to have a look at another one.

Anyone got a T11 in the Midlands, close to the NEC would be good.
I started with nothing and I have most of it left

TiddlesRX7

I\'d take a photo of mine but I\'ve removed most of that lot!
I don\'t need to upgrade my stock turbo to beat your ass!

Get your finger out, get it on the road and start driving it then!!! (B.Martin 25/2/12)

Prof

Quote from: johnf;696424Better still would be to have a look at another one.
 
Anyone got a T11 in the Midlands, close to the NEC would be good.

Your induction going into the turbo doesn\'t look like a standard pipe, so the recirc valve, that\'s on the pipe marked E) I think, wont really fit anymore.  You probably want a Blow Off Valve instead - going onto that pipe sticking out at B)
 
Also, if the Air Control Valve has been taken off - large blanking plate over the right hand side of the lower inlet manifold - then the airpump isn\'t really going to do anything anymore can could be taken off.
 
Found this piccy over on rx7club.com :
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Brett

Brap Brap Brap Brap

johnf

Right - couple more questions.

What goes on the fitting in the pic and where does the pipe go to.

The first pic is on the car the second is the same but taken from a spare part.

Next - I don\'t seem to have a lamba sensor in my box of bits, looking on ebay I can buy 2-3-4 wire universal any advice on what I need

Thanks

John
I started with nothing and I have most of it left

Prof

Questions in reverse order:
 
You want a 1 wire lambda sensor if it\'s the stock narrow band one - I got one for about £17 said it was Mazda compatible - you\'ll have to crimp an end on it, but both Mitch and I have used these with no issues.
 
As for the other question - where does that pipe go - it should go through a long rubber hose along the side of the engine bay, and into a mini silencer behind the headlight on the drivers side (white thing). It also passes through an odd looking black plastic valve - the so called \'anti moo\' valve ;)
 
This is for the relief air from the air control valve - basically it just exhausts fresh air from the airpump when it isn\'t being fed into the cat\'s or exhaust ports. It could vent to air - but it will be noisy !
 
This link explains how to remove all that stuff - but is really good for telling you what goes where and what it looks like:
 
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/pumpACV.htm
 
 
Dave.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


papercutout

That\'s the pipe I was on about earlier when on the phone - I said Prof would know :D


As I was saying - if you remove the air pump gubbins, you won\'t have/need it.

johnf

Must admit I\'m starting to think I won\'t be able to sort all this out and get it running, so

many loose ends, plugs, wires etc.


If there\'s anyone local who could help me finish this I\'m sure I can negotiate a day rate.


John
I started with nothing and I have most of it left

johnf

#11
Dave

Thanks for the info and link, the first part of the link describes how to remove the air pump.

Silly question but why remove the air pump, is it not there for a purpose?

I\'m looking for the quickest easiest way to get me on the road which would appear to be going stock, would you agree.

However as I progress I find I\'m a few bits missing.

I haven\'t got this for a start.
I started with nothing and I have most of it left

Prof

The air pump is there for a reason - you\'re right :)
 
It\'s part of the secondary air system that\'s basically been designed to let the car pass the emissions tests - particularly the more stringent american tests.
 
With no cat in the exhaust, but retaining the air pump and it\'s associated valves and solenoids, the emissions will be around the 0.4 % mark.  Take the air pump off, and this will increase 10 fold - meaning the car is much harder to get through the no cat test on the emissions (3.5% CO max allowed), but not impossible.  A warmed car, with appropriate fuel cut\'s in the idle part of the map, and new plugs will normally pass - just.
 
As for that part, I don\'t have mine anymore - the silencer canister was broken when someone clipped my front drivers side - so I never bothered to refit it.  However, I would think there are plenty kicking about as people have more often than not removed them.
 
I\'ve got solenoids, I think a complete vacuum rack, and various other bits, if you are missing any of them - let me know what you are short and I will see what I\'ve got.  You can have them for the price of the postage.
 
Dave.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


TiddlesRX7

I removed mine. I have that pipe kicking about if you need it John. I would say though you may aswell remove the airpump and associated gubbins though. It does free up a lot of room and simplifies the engine bay alot.
I don\'t need to upgrade my stock turbo to beat your ass!

Get your finger out, get it on the road and start driving it then!!! (B.Martin 25/2/12)

johnf

Did the air pump and associated bits removal today.

Made the blanking plate and blocked off the three small air pipes.

I think we may try to start it tomorrow..............................................

Linked up the throttle cable but what\'s the other similar looking cable that originates from a box by the front wing and seems to have a pipe going inside the front wing?

John

.
I started with nothing and I have most of it left