Engine pull, Stripdown and Rebuild

[FlikstRR]

this is an awesome thread. greats on the start dude.

[Prof]

Latest update:
 
Got a thermostat neck from Tim at RX Motors - cheers for the propmt delivery
 
So got that fitted on Thursday night - as it was dry and weekend was predicted to be a bit on the wet side.
 
This morning I pulled the spark plugs and checked them - they seem ok - a little discoloured - so cleaned them.  Pulled EGI fuse / cranked - no big clouds of vapour - so not flooded this time.  Popped plugs back in.  Checked for air leaks - as it wasn\'t holding idle when it warmed up.  Found one suspect T clamp where the compressor outlet meats the intake pipe that goes to the intercooler - so loosened it off - wiggled it and the hose back into the best positon and tightened it again.
 
I also got rid of my fuel cuts from the primary injector map - can always add them back in later.
 
Since I redid the vac pipe to the Blow off Valve, I wanted to check that I\'d got that in the correct nipple on the front of the throttle body - so it was off into the loft to find the spare one, and look at the spacer that goes between plenum and throttle body - so I could work it out properly - it seems the US guys on rx7club get very confused over what nipple does what - and the JDM TB\'s are different to their\'s as well.  It would appear that one person over on that site does know what\'s what - that\'s NZConvertible - I confirmed his explanation by squirting air/carb cleaner through the various holes in the spacer.  To be helpful to others - here are the results:
 
 
Back of Throttle body - nearest the bulkhead - starting from the top:
 
1)  Secondary Injector air bleed - connected through to the intercooler side of the throttle body
 
2)  Oil metering pump spider - thicker nipple than the others - this also connects through to the intercooler side of the throttle bodies
 
3) Primary Injector air bleed - again same as 1) and 2)
 
The above three lines are sometimes referred to as \'fresh air\' feeds - they will see boost if the engine is on boost - and mild vacuum on idle/cruise with partially open throttle plates.
 
4) Secondary throttle plate system - cold starting - this bottom nipple comes from the plenum directly - it will have hard vacuum when the throttle plates are shut, boost when the engine is on boost.  It is used to provide a temperature regulated (via wax thermo device) vacuum to the actuator on the other side of the throttle body.  It operates the first set of throttle plates to assist with cold starting by providing more air.
 
Front of the throttle body:
 
1)  On my TII this was normally capped off - it connects to the plenum side of the throttle body - primary runners - it has hard vacuum when the throttle plates are closed
 
2)  This line is a \'fresh air\' feed and goes to the top nipple on the purge control valve - It connects to the intercooler side of the throttle body.
 
3)  This line goes to the smaller nipple on the bottom of the purge control valve - It is connected to the same place as 1) above.
 
 
If you have eliminated the purge control system - then these can all be capped off.  You can use 1) or 3) for a BOV, pressure gauge or MAP sensor.
 
So with that confirmed - the BOV was ok and not the cause of any air leaks.
 
I also popped the pins on the AFM (air flow meter) connector - and squidged and cleaned them - to give a better connecton to the AFM.  A bad AFM signal is apparently another cause of bad idle when warm.
 
Plugged the laptop in, reset the fuel map for primaries, and then started the car.  Started straight up - and revved to 2000 - I let the car warm up normally - checking the AFR\'s - this time they are rich - like 10 to 11 - not uncommon for them to be rich for a cold start - but I kept an eye on them.  I let the car warm up normally - rev\'s dropping gradually - it seemed to settle around 1200 rpm\'s - so I got the screwdriver and out backed the revs off - got it to around 900 - then reset the timng with the strobe gun - It was slightly advanced.
 
I waited for the temperature to rise to where the rad fans should kick in with the emanage - not coming on - so I\'ve a wiring issue / relay problem there - but let it warm up a bit more until my backup failsafe - thermostat in top radiator hose - kicked in and the fans came on
 
So I need to sort a wiring issue out still.  But no leaks now - oil / fuel or water, and the car passed a restart test too - just needed a quick catch with the accelerator on startup - but it fired straight up.  This is caused by my eliminating the PRC solenoid from the fuel pressure regulator vacuum feed - so I wasn\'t too suprised by that.  It meant the car was warm at least
 
Still to do:
 

• Fix emanage signal for electric fan control
• Check oil and water levels after running the engine
• Test drive it

I\'m a lot more confident about the engine build now, but time will tell.:Thumbs-up

[papercutout]

This is great news mate, and you\'re really great putting so many tips and advice up! We really appreciate it!

Keep up the good work, can\'t wait to see this on the road this year! Our cabs would looks pretty sweet side by side!

[Prof]

Yeh - just needs a good paintjob, a wheel refurb, and a new windscreen (It\'s got a non MOT failure crack in the bottom right hand corner).  It never ends....
 
Fixed the fan wiring - I\'d crossed over 2 wires - one that feeds the water injection 3 way solenoid and one that feeds the relay for the e fans.  Good job I kept notes somewhere
 
Still - it will at least be running for the first event of the year at Brooklands.

[papercutout]

Speak to this guy about the paint: http://www.driftworks.com/forum/members/5628.html he\'s pretty damn good if you don\'t have someone lined up already. Reasonably priced and fully commited to his work!

[Prof]

Well - it\'s still running rich - but my test drive was about 2 foot back and forward on the drive - clutch isn\'t working correctly.
 
Went to bleed the system - and the pedal is moving far too easily with no movement of fluid from the master cylinder.  If I push on the slave/release cylinder there is fluid coming from the bleed valve.
 
So - it looks like the Master cylinder is foobar. :mad::mad:

[Prof]

Well - I ordered a rebuild kit from WGT - which arrived Thursday, so set about the task of rebuilding it.
 
There isn\'t much to say on how to do it - follow the service manual and you are pretty much there.  But here is a quick brakedown:
 
1) I removed all the parts to clean it up - but you may get away with just the main piston/spring replacement - which is what\'s in the kit.  Anyway first thing to do is remove as much of the brake / clutch fluid as you can from the reservour - I used a pipette - you can use a syringe - but whatever you do don\'t get this stuff in your mouth !!
 
2) Undo the hard pipe from the Master cylinder - use a flared wrench for this - otherwise you risk rounding the nut.  I think it\'s a 10mm (8 on the slave bleed valve).
 
3) cap the pipe with something to prevent it dripping everywhere.
 
4) To remove the Master Cylinder - it\'s 2 12mm nuts.  They are a long way up behind the dash - so larger gents like me may have to remove the drivers seat to get in there - I laid on my back to get at them.  I also packed the Master cylinder with some cloth against the upper inlet manifold to stop it flopping about.
 
5) Once the nuts are lose - go back into the engine bay and gently work the cylinder off the bulkhead - it will come out without taking anything off - well it did on mine.
 
6) Once the unit is off, drain as much off the fluid out as you can - You can also use a philips screwdriver or rounded rod to push the piston in and clear out more fluid - be carful - it squirts a long way.
 
7)  Next job is to remove the circlip in the end of the piston - get the circlip pliers in place - then whilst holding it ready - use the screwdriver or rod to gently push the piston in - then remove the circlip.
 
 The piston should now come out fairly freely, followed by the rest of the bits (clear plastic cap, black plastic cap and spring.  These are what you get in the kit.
 
9)  Now meticulously clean the cylinder - remove any old crap in there.  Be especially careful not to get any moisture, oil or grit / fluff in here - it needs to be spotless !!
 
10) To assemble the parts again use brake fluid to lube them - or red rubber grease - as that\'s meant for brake parts.
 
11) As Halfors say - refit is reverse of removal
 
12) Once it\'s all back together - bleed it fully.
 
Here\'s some pics:

[m1tch]

Well done was that the last box to tick before it is back on the road?

[Prof]

Some mapping to do - tis still running very rich once warm - in the low 11\'s on idle - going to pull a bit of fuel in the primaries map rather than tweak the FPR - as I want the fuel at the top end
 
Might have a pin hole in the rad as well - so once I locate it I shall stuff some quicksteel over it.
 
Hopefully that\'s it done then, apart from the fan controller, and WI controller - and of course my DIY igniter replacement - but that can wait for now.

[Prof]

Woo Hoo :3gears-rh  Nuff said :Thumbs-up

[papercutout]

*big grin*

You beat Liam to getting it done Good work mate! Brooklands?

[Prof]

I\'ll have to clean it - but yes - the rex will be at Brooklands as long as nothing goes wrong over the next couple of days.
 
Car feels good, but keeping it off boost for now and under 4000 rpm till it\'s properly bedded in.
 
Paint work looks dreadful now - really needs some TLC, but the running gear is good, and the engine and ancillaries are all ok.

[L18M]

thats good news dave
any reason your limit is 4000rpm than say 3500rpm?

you fancy taking on a new project? lol

[pdtaylor18]

Can you get a copy of your map dave, if you can pull out the IGL and IGT or whatever they call it. I just need to know what the basic FC ignition map is as all mine have been modified. Be interesting to see how far off they are from standard. I can send you some Excel based maps which are quite interesting on modified FC\'s and FD\'s with single turbos. If you have the A/F map as well then that be good too.

[papercutout]

My car is boosting by 4000rpm, and thats almost stock!

Be good to see it though mate!