Boost controller and various gauges plumbing in?!

[papercutout]

I\'m still new to the turbo world, so haven\'t the foggiest how to get this sort of thing done! That and I hate wiring...!

First off we\'ll start with the gauges, bought a water temp gauge, boost gauge and oil temp gauge.

Water temp gauge - pretty much sorted, but I\'ve wired it into the standard sender in the top of the radiator, but because the buzzer was going, wired the stock unit back in too. Unfortunately the buzzer STILL goes, but only when I plug the wire into the new gauge.
Any idea\'s why? (coolant light comes on too, so I don\'t want to just disconnect the buzzer) And how can I stop it, and have it still reading the temp?

Oil temp gauge - this should be easy, IF you can tell me where to put the sender I\'ve bought in/if there is an existing one I can plug into/replace?! Again, without setting another buzzer off :p

Boost gauge - what boost piping do I connect it to?! I plumbed it into the pipe that goes to the boost pressure sensor, but it doesn\'t read the boost, and also leaks a little I think... Could it be plumbed into the wrong section/too far down? Do I need to jubilee clip the pipes to stop them leaking?


And lastly, how do I plumb the boost controller in?! It\'s a manual one, so just an L-junction and an adjuster at the top. The one that driftworks sell if you want to see it.

Thanks!

[m1tch]

I\'m still new to the turbo world, so haven\'t the foggiest how to get this sort of thing done! That and I hate wiring...!

First off we\'ll start with the gauges, bought a water temp gauge, boost gauge and oil temp gauge.

Water temp gauge - pretty much sorted, but I\'ve wired it into the standard sender in the top of the radiator, but because the buzzer was going, wired the stock unit back in too. Unfortunately the buzzer STILL goes, but only when I plug the wire into the new gauge.
Any idea\'s why? (coolant light comes on too, so I don\'t want to just disconnect the buzzer) And how can I stop it, and have it still reading the temp?

Oil temp gauge - this should be easy, IF you can tell me where to put the sender I\'ve bought in/if there is an existing one I can plug into/replace?! Again, without setting another buzzer off :p

Boost gauge - what boost piping do I connect it to?! I plumbed it into the pipe that goes to the boost pressure sensor, but it doesn\'t read the boost, and also leaks a little I think... Could it be plumbed into the wrong section/too far down? Do I need to jubilee clip the pipes to stop them leaking?


And lastly, how do I plumb the boost controller in?! It\'s a manual one, so just an L-junction and an adjuster at the top. The one that driftworks sell if you want to see it.

Thanks!

Most water temp sensors use their own sensor that goes inline into the water hoses.

What does your oil temp gauge/setup look like, most of them use sandwich plates just below the oil filter

The boost gauge can be fitted by using a T piece in between the engine and the BOV, make sure there are no leaks!

I would get an electronic boost controller like an Apexi AVC-R or a Profec B, these will control the boost MUCH better, and also much more safely.

[dthebuk]

you\'ll need something like this for the oil temp/pressure gauge.http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OIL-FILTER-COOLER-SANDWICH-PLATE-ADAPTER-SUPRA-RX7-RX8_W0QQitemZ170473771471QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item27b10751cf#ht_2192wt_941
not sure if it fits the 13bt though. They go under the oil filter.

boost guage needs to go somewhere between the turbo and engine. On the fd, there are tappings on the side of the manifold. not sure on fc\'s

no idea how manual boost controllers work

[Prof]

Lot\'s there !
 
Water temp:
 
The sender in the radiator is only a fluid level one - it if see\'s an \'earthy\' voltage it\'s fine, but if the water level drops, the probe goes dry and the buzzer goes off / coolant light comes on.
 
The stock setup has 2 senders - a 1 wire sensor that sits just under the oil pedestal and slightly in front - it\'s not the big sender - that\'s oil pressure - but the little one in front of that.  This sensor is for the temp gauge and temp warning light.
 
Then there is a 2nd sensor that the ECU uses that\'s a 2 pin green connector - the sensor is on the back of the water pump.  Kind of under and towards the drivers side of the back of the alternator.
 
Normally the gauges come with senders - and are designed to work with them - for water temp, the sender is normally a thermistor - negative temp coefficient type - where the resistance goes down as they get hotter.  Both the stock units are, but are different resistances.  Unless you somehow buffer the voltage that\'s developped across the sender, you can\'t piggy back onto them, as that will affect the reading.
 
You\'re best bet is to get another sender and place it in the water path - most people use an adaptor in the top rad hose.  It\'s not ideal but good enough for trending.
 
Oil Temp:
 
Much the same with this - there is no stock oil temp gauge for the FC - only oil pressure - which is that big doo hickey I mentioned earlier.  Options could be to get an adaptor to allow 2 senders to go into the one hole, or use a sandwhich plate under the oil filter.
 
Boost Gauge:
 
That place you\'ve Tee\'d into should be ok.  I fitted mine there.  You should have vacuum on idle, and it should read 0 when the engine is off (indicating atmospheric).  If the gauge doesn\'t go below 0, then something\'s amiss with the plumbing.  Some of these gauges have a filter with them - check that isn\'t clogged or cracked - It will be inline.
 
 
Boost Controller:
 
This needs to connect between the outlet from the turbo compressor and the wastegate - disconnect all the stock plumbing - and plug the line that tee\'s off this - as that\'s for the stock boost solenoid - which you won\'t be using.

[papercutout]

Okey dokey then.

This is how I\'ve plumbed the boost controller in. Is that fine? Will it be affected by the other t-junction that goes to the intake pipe?



These are the 2 senders I received. 1 for the oil temp and 1 for the water temp. How would you put the water temp sender in - replace one of the stock items, or put it in the top rad hose?



This is the boost controller, and there\'s nada wrong with a decent manual one! Especially considering the price compared to say, a profec or similar!



And lastly I thought this might give you a chuckle - my interior! Re-fitted the gear knob today, and yes that boost controller is held in place with a zip-tie!




If I\'ve not got these things sorted, I\'ll be at Brooklands next sunday so people can point things I\'ve missed out?!

[TiddlesRX7]

You\'ll need something like this to house the water temp sender. Then just cut the hose and slip it inline.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Radiator-Hose-Adaptor-for-Temperature-Guage-Sensor-34mm_W0QQitemZ350205608942QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5189e183ee

[TiddlesRX7]

Boost Controller:

This needs to connect between the outlet from the turbo compressor and the wastegate - disconnect all the stock plumbing - and plug the line that tee\'s off this - as that\'s for the stock boost solenoid - which you won\'t be using.

You got a pic of this by anychance Dave? I never disconnected all the old pipework and never blanked any off. Im thinking this might be why mine isn\'t really doing much.

[papercutout]

You\'ll need something like this to house the water temp sender. Then just cut the hose and slip it inline.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Radiator-Hose-Adaptor-for-Temperature-Guage-Sensor-34mm_W0QQitemZ350205608942QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5189e183ee

Thanks mate! Trying to work out what size now! Went out and measured the pipe and it has a 47mm OD, but the largest I can find is a 42mm, which is probably right considering I measured the OD, and need it to fit the ID...


Here is the one I found:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Radiator-Hose-Water-Temperature-Sensor-Adaptor-42mm_W0QQitemZ270437605377

[grinder]

i think its either a 28 or a 32mm ID pipe ( top hose )

ohhhhhhhhhhhhh just cant think off the top of my head .. hang on ...

well i just checked and its 38mm

[Prof]

+2 on 38mm - just found my receipt for my thermo switch that\'s in the top rad hose

[papercutout]

Well I ordered a 40mm last night, and apparently received a phone call earlier saying something or other I\'ve ordered is out of stock - I assume it was this! If he can get hold of me then I\'ll change to a 38mm!

Thanks.


Prof - have you got a response for Tiddles on his last question? :p

[TiddlesRX7]

I had a look at the turbo I just too off my car. There is 1 hose that comes off the actuator. I took that off and fitted my boost controller to each end. 1 pipe to the actuator and 1 pipe to the metal pipe mounted on the turbo. Now this metal pipe T\'s off to the outlet of the compressor housing the other end goes to the engine from memory. So I guess thats the one that needs to be blanked off.

[Prof]

Yep - sorry - been busy getting the pilot bearing out and replaced - gearbox back on etc. etc.  Still not finished
 
Anyway\'s - looking a the front of turbo - you\'ve a hard pipe with a Tee attached to the front of the compressor - one end comes off the outlet nipple on the compressor - the other end goes to the wastegate.  The Tee goes off to the stock boost solenoid, it\'s that connection you need to remove and cap off the line that goes to the boost solenoid.
 
Depending on the type of boost controller you\'ve got - most are spring and ball regulator type - but check first.  If you\'ve the spring ball type - then it goes between the compressor outlet and the wastegate - a lot of people remove the stock piping on the front of the compressor and just connect to new hoses in.
 
If you\'ve the bleed type of manual boost controller - it would plumb into the Tee that you took the stock boost controller line off.
 
I\'ll see if I can take a pic of the bits tomorrow - although it would be on my spare parts turbo, as my current setup is very  different.

[papercutout]

Gutted yours isn\'t finished mate, it\'s proving to be a right ballache isn\'t it!


Photo\'s would be magnificent though! Pretty sure it\'s a ball and spring - when I \'opened\' it there was a spring in there

[Prof]

Gutted yours isn\'t finished mate, it\'s proving to be a right ballache isn\'t it!
 
 
Photo\'s would be magnificent though! Pretty sure it\'s a ball and spring - when I \'opened\' it there was a spring in there

So that goes in line then - just get shot of the bit of pipe on front of the turbo - run a line from the wastegate to the barb on the boost controller that has a small pin hole in it or just above it, then run the other line to the small outlet on the neck of the compressor.  Where the Tee is on the stock piping - remove that rubber hose from there and plug it - job done.
 
Will take a pic or two tomorrow.