Clutch Woes

[Prof]

Well - after my rebuild, I\'m nearly there but have one niggling issue to solve before I can drive it.
 
The problem:
 
I can\'t select a gear when the engine is running, but can when the engine is off - after pumping the clutch a couple of times.
 
I am guessing that when the engine runs, the pressure plate/clutch are pushed outward by centrifugal force, so the clutch fork has to go further to engage the clutch.
 
I lined up the clutch using the supplied tool, and tightened it down to the correct torque.  Gearbox was fitted to engine before putting both back in the car.
 
I\'ve bled the clutch - and in fact first time off no fluid moved out from the Master cylinder, so a rebuild kit was ordered - the master rebuilt - and bled the whole circuit - twice.  Pedal moves the slave ok, and the clutch disengages to allow easy gear selection when the engine is NOT running.
 
There is NO sign of fluid leak from the Master or Slave, and the piping between is ok - stock hard line, plus braided cable from bulkhead to Slave - that\'s all ok - no leaks.
 
So I am thinking it\'s either:
 

• Clutch Release Fork - could be mis seated or bent forks ?
• Clutch Release Bearing (Throw out bearing) faulty ?
• Clutch misaligned ?
• Other issue ?

So my questions:
 
[LIST=1]

• Is there anything I can do to narrow down the problem without taking the gearbox off the engine ?
• Can I see the Clutch Release Fork / Clutch Release Bearing through any of the inspection holes ?
• If it is the Fork or Bearing - can I get to them through the hole where the fork passes through the rubber gaitor ?

Really not looking forward to taking the box off the engine

[Prof]

Just a quick addendum...
 
I noticed that where the slave piston ball end goes into the fork, the fork is worn through - as in there is a small hole here.  Is it possible to \'shim\' this with a small rounded out bolt or some such to provide just a little more leverage ?  I am guessing it\'s very worn hence the issue I am having.

[clive]

Dave it may be an idea to give me a ring and I will talk you through this one to try and help,

If you have a good pedal correctly adjusted that does not fade away, unfortunatly it could be that you have the clutch centre plate in the wrong way round as this would not let the clutch disengauge .

[Prof]

Clive, on the MRP number?
 
Dave.

[clive]

Yes Dave, I\'m about ATM

[Prof]

Well after chatting with Clive, I got a few ideas...
 
I adjusted the pedal properly - I was out by quite a bit - and on doing that and re bleeding it  - I can now hear the clutch \'chattering\' as it\'s on the verge of disengaging.
 
I removed the slave cylinder - checking it wasn\'t leaking - and then removed the rubber boot and got my little camera in the hole - clutch fork is in the release bearing, and it moves in and out ok.  I wiggled the fork a little and \'re homed\' it on the pivot point - put the boot back on and the slave cylinder - and tried the clutch again - still not working.
 
I jacked the car up next, and removed the strut bar that convertibles have - and then removed the small inspection plate.  You can see the clutch through the hole, but as luck would have it I was staring at one of the flywheel bolts that holds the pressure plate on - had to rotate the crank just a smidge so I could see the clutch plate / pressure plate.  They were clamped nicely together - so I jammed the clutch pedal down with a handy bit of wood - and had another look - now they are seperated by about 1.5 mm of air - woo hoo - so the clutch mechanism is working ok.
 
But there is a pooey side to this - it looks like when I offered up the gearbox to the engine - I\'ve probably distorted - knackered the spigot bearing - so the gearbox input shaft and crankshaft shaft are kind of tied together.  Looks like I am going to have to take the gearbox off the engine - which I was hoping to avoid

[Prof]

BTW - can anyone recommend a spiggot puller ?
 
Is there an off the shelf one that works to remove them - or do I need the Mazda official tool - \'SST\' - :rolleyes:

[kev-yorks]

Die grinder may be the easiest option Dave if you\'ve a carbide bit. Put a groove down one side of the race then prise it out once its loosened its hold in the flywheel.

[antnicuk]

Dave,  is it possible that you have put the friction plate in the wrong way round?  the springs should face the gearbox.  The symptoms you describe are exactly that,  the springs are pushing on the flywheel and never releasing fully, the chattering you can hear is the springs binding on the flywheel.

[Prof]

Got the gearbox off tonight - clutch plate was on the correct way round - and we found the problem
 
The pilot bearing is literally in pieces - needles have all fallen out, but the outer collar was intact I think - too dark to tell - so job tomorrow is to get the camera in there and have a look.
 
Need to check the gearbox input shaft end - make sure that\'s not damaged, but it looks like I tore the bearing up getting the gearbox on, so it was basically jammed.
 
Oh well - I have a new bearing and dust seal - just need to get the tool to get the bearing out.

[1990_fc3s_t2]

you should try the grease an dowel method, im intrigued to see if it works :Giggle

im hoping ive not done the same as you as it was a pita to get the box back on that last inch!

did you stick your finger in and feel the roller\'s before the install or was it deffo putting the gearbox on that ruined the bearing?

good luck getting it out. :Thumbs-up

[Prof]

you should try the grease an dowel method, im intrigued to see if it works :Giggle
 
im hoping ive not done the same as you as it was a pita to get the box back on that last inch!
 
did you stick your finger in and feel the roller\'s before the install or was it deffo putting the gearbox on that ruined the bearing?
 
good luck getting it out. :Thumbs-up

I discovered a good trick to get the box on that last inch - use a couple of long bolts, spaced with a socket, and centre the box in the holes using 2 opposite bolt holes, then just wind the bolts in - once you get it close, you can swap the bolts around to \'walk\' the box in, just make sure you keep it even as it goes up to the engine.  You can put the proper bolts in when you get to a small enough gap
 
I did check the bearing before putting the gearbox on - and I know I struggled getting it on, as it was on ground / engine crane.  I reckon I did the damage when it slipped just a little

[Prof]

Pilot bearing in about 30 pieces - so I am guessing that was the problem
 
Replaced it - Big thanks to Adam and Jit for the loan of the tool
 
Got the gearbox back on last night and the zorts and bits on this morning - and took it for it\'s first 10 miles - engine is a little rich but feels even and strong - well chuffed :yes

[TiddlesRX7]

Well done mate. Nice to hear bud. Smile time!

[m1tch]

Yay! :d Nice Work :d