Engine pull, Stripdown and Rebuild

[Prof]

One more - a closeup of the engine top - showing an oil injector port - also, on the middle iron, I extracted and cleaned both the fuel injector furniture pieces - the mixing plate and breather which has both it\'s o rings replaced - the old ones were rock hard and not really sealing much of anything - I think it\'s common on older fc\'s to see weeping from the injector bases because of this.  I will be doing the ones on the LIM as well.
 
You can also see the small water hose on top of the rear iron - I\'ll be using this to pressure test the engine.

[turbointhebrain]

good looking rebuild prof! fair play to ya, this is spurring me on to start on my series 4

[Prof]

Thought I better put some more pics up.
 
These next few are from how I did the coolant systme pressure test - basically a £15 central heating pressure test gauge, car foot pump, an old spark plug, a pair of corks and a 3x4 inch plate of ally plus some clear silicone adhesive/sealant.
 
The 3x4 ally plate goes under the water pump - mark out the holes and drill accordingly - you need to mount the water pump on top of it to hold it down - and I used the silicone to seal it up good.  The thicker the plate the more successful this will be.
 
The corks fill the 2 water outlets on the rotors - again, silcone sealant will help around the outside of the cork.
 
Make sure you put the thermostat and engine drain plug back in - I forgot :2Rolleyes
 
Then put the old spark plug into the end of the water hose that feeds the in car heater matrix.
 
Then attach a length of hose to the remaining nipple on top of the rear iron and attach the other end to the CH pressure tester - and pump away.
 
You are aiming to put between 0.5 and 1 bar of air in it - and leave it - see how long it takes to come out.  Mine eventually leaked from under the water pump - should have used thicker ally
 
Pics:-

[Prof]

Here are some more showing the bit\'s going back on the engine.
 
I forgot to take pics of setting the end play - which is a shame as it\'s an important step !
 
Still - you can see the engine develop as the ancillaries go back on !
 
Also, if removing the emissions stuff - there are 3 small vac holes that you should think about filling to avoid vac leaks - they are along the top edge.

[Prof]

Kind of off topic - but here\'s a pic of my hyrbrid turbo alongside the front end (compressor section) and CHRA of a stock turbo for comparison...
 
 
 
(Spot the shiny new oil feed adapator )

[m1tch]

Yay I can see my legs lol plus a certain someone\'s turbo being cleaned

[Prof]

It\'s getting close to being ready to fire.
 
The following pics show the new plumbing to the fuel rails. I\'ve decided to mount the pressure regulator on the bulkhead to avoid straining the secondary rail. All hose and fittings are -6 AN
 
You can also see the water hoses - both to/from the heater matrix, from the turbo, and the radiator hoses will all be red silicone - thick walled. I will be doing the same with the small hose that goes through the BAC as well.
 
The front engine shot shows the -10 AN turbo oil drain nicely - but this needs to be cut slight shorter to ensure a downhill slope the whole way - I wasn\'t sure how the hose would line up with the power steering rack - and it\'s just touching - so shortening it will also correct that problem.
 
There is a close up of the HKS Fuel Pressure Regulator which has a gauge attached at the moment - that might be replaced with a sender to mount an electronic gauge internally - but for now will serve to set the fuel pressures up properly.
 
Got braided OMP lines to do, the vac piping, and the new 4 way boost solenoid to fit still.

[m1tch]

YAY looks fab was a good idea to move that NISMO FPR to where you can get to it as well!

[Prof]

And it\'s turned into a brand new HKS one As well !
 
NISMO one for sale if anyone wants it

[m1tch]

My bad lol its shiny so I got confused

[Prof]

Well - thought I better put up some more progress pictures - as it was it\'s first attempt to fire it today...
 
I\'ve included pics of the braided OMP lines that I made up from AN3 Banjo\'s and some translucent blue covered braided lines.
 
You can also see the WI pieces that I\'ve now installed in the engne bay - I still have to do the intercooler sprayer - but that\'s for another time.

[Prof]

Current status :
 
Engine cranks ok, and oil pressure building to 30psi, but not firing.
 
Checked ECU error codes - I am getting a 32 - split air solenoid - so one of my resistors isn\'t connected up properly - easily sorted, and won\'t effect engine cranking.
 
Fuel system is working - so there is fuel available.
 
Need to verify that I\'ve got power to the coils / injectors, and according to Part 4 of the PDF - these are the things I should check:
 
1) Main Relay
2) Circuit Opening Relay
3) Water Thermosensor
4) TPS
5) Pressure Sensor
6) Intake Thermosensor Engine (IAT)
7) AFM
ECU
 
I\'m not getting error codes for TPS, MAP, IAT, CLT, or AFM - so I assume they are good, but I\'ll check the 5v Ref voltage from the ECU.
 
I did get the one error code, which suggests the ECU is alive and working, but it wouldn\'t hurt to lift the carpet and check it isn\'t bathing in water :Giggle
 
Need to check voltage is getting to the coils.
 
The only other thing I can think of is the CAS sensor - I did pull the wires out of the connector to repair them with heatshrink as there were bare wires showing on the engne loom side.  I need to double check these are wired correctly.

[BenLewisMav]

Awesome thread prof, can\'t believe I only just found this!
Interesting to see the old engine looking colourful and new
For the record, yes it was a Powergains build (street porting *possibly* by Jaydee iirc)

Unfortunately I can\'t really help with the starting/firing problems as I went the Microtech route.. Any progress/luck?

[Prof]

Awesome thread prof, can\'t believe I only just found this!
Interesting to see the old engine looking colourful and new
For the record, yes it was a Powergains build (street porting *possibly* by Jaydee iirc)
 
Unfortunately I can\'t really help with the starting/firing problems as I went the Microtech route.. Any progress/luck?

 
Definitely street ported - actually the work on the porting looks better / bigger than on my older engine - certainly on the exhaust side.  From the looks of the Apex Seals - Rotary Aviation ones ?
 
The state of the engine when I did pull it apart was generally pretty good - so the 2 stroke mod seems to be doing well.
 
As for the starting issue - going to be attacking it again later.  I\'ve checked some of the sensors in my list above - they are ok, so need to confirm I\'m getting power to the injectors/coils.
 
There is a good possibility it might be my disturbing the CAS wiring when I repaired it - and then putting it back (done according to the manual) in such a way as to have mixed up the signals - it doesn\'t even try to fire - just cranks nicely - so I do suspect it\'s an electrical/electronic issue.

[monterx7]

really liking your omp lines.....did you assemble them?