my 200mph rx7 build

[turbotoaster]

do you have any pics of your waterpipe setup just so i can have a look, my concern with a vmount is that the where the rad/intercooler meet that it will be so far back in the engine bay that there will be no room for my water injection infront of my turbo as due to the size of the compressor housing the front of the turbo will be inline with the front of the top water pipe.
 
saying that, by fitting it in fmic in the engine bay that might also be the case:mad:

[shaunwil]

Interesting read on pre-turbo setup.

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=663979

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=267&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=17871242657337781b7db7b268de2a41

Shaun

[DR SCHNITZEL]

As for the pipework length - don\'t get hung up on it - in the real world it makes very little tangible difference. Even if it does, it will predominantly be in resonse, and as that\'s not what you are chasing, it\'d be sort of irrelevant - maximum cooling is the goal, surely?

so so so so true

[turbotoaster]

Interesting read on pre-turbo setup.
 
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=663979
 
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=267&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=17871242657337781b7db7b268de2a41
 
Shaun

yeh good links them are, dudemaaanownsanrx7 on rx7club has developed a fully mechanical kit(no electrical pump) you can buy now, and since its everything i would buy myself its easier to just get it all from him.
 
the good thing about preturbo is it extends the turbo effesiancy because the temps coming out of the compressor stay cooler, ie doesnt blow air out that hot that it loses its density and you end up not making no extra power.
 
Now to say you can make 1000bhp with a gt35, but you will get more power at higher boost, probably not much difference at say 0.9bar, but 1.3plus would be beneficial.
 
Also takes a bit of a strain off the intercooler as the inlet temps will be less to the cooler, then once it has passed through the cooler and the water has cooled down it can enter the engine to help against knock.
 
on my engine ill be running 375cc at 15psi, 500cc at 20psi and 750cc at 30psi, the good bit about the kit is you dont need to adjust anything when you change the boost, you run more boost and it pushes more water:Thumbs-up

[turbotoaster]

Little update, my quickshift arrived today, yes it wont have any benefits for top speed but just fancied one.

simple design

Its actually a B&M replica but its actually better than the real thing because the real ones are made out of aluminum, yes thats great for weight but there is a flaw in that the material isnt strong enough in my opinion, infact i snapped one in half at the drag strip so i know it isnt.
The replicas are made all steel so while they are heavier, they are also stronger.
ok time to install!!
stock

remove gearknob, just unscrews

remove covering

remove rubber sound deadening/wind resistance thingy

remove stick and bolts hold in, hit with hammer to break seal, becareful of gear oil going everywhere

pull plastic boot off original and fit to new quick shift

bolt new quickshift down with supplied washers and bolts

replace rubber covers, replace big plastic cover, reconnect switches, good as new

Well first impressions, my god!! Its so short and feels like im using a completely different box, gonna take some practice on the gear changes as it is very notchy, reminds me of a HKS dog box in a GTR that i once drove, it should settle down as i break it in but feels pretty mad at the moment!
Also taken all the slack out of the gear change so theres no movement at all
Will hopefully have another update on monday

[DC-TYPER]

so, whats the spend so far then?

[turbotoaster]

well at the moment its:
 
car 3000
engine build 3000
coilovers 300
power fc 450
intercooler 72
radiator 100
 
so 6922 at the moment.
 
im looking at £1500 for the turbo full kit incl exhaust
£400 for ignition system
£200 for w/i
£800 for fuel pumps/injectors rail etc
£120 for rear tyres
so that puts me at £9942
 
so im cutting it really fine but so we shall see how we go

[FD3S Efini]

iv been really looking forward to this thread and seeing the end result....need more pics lol
 
Kris

[turbotoaster]

your wish is my command fd3s Efini!!

radiator arrived today so i did some marking up to see if my theory matched real life

Another ebay purchase


No damage


thickness of end tanks


thickness of core


Marking up placement


Pretty tight!!


Checking for leaks



One the issues with running an intercooler of 120mm thickness is that you struggle to cool the water temps due to the restriction of air getting to the radiator.

By only covering half the radiator with the rad you gain the benefit of a thick intercooler and alot of air passing though the rad, thats my theory behind why this should work so fingers crossed.

Just need to get my intercooler over the local aluminum welding place to cut it to my specs:D

[S3TH]

Surely the fabrication involved in your FMIC arrangement is tantamount to that of a V-mount? Why not just invest the time in a v-mount?

2nd q: What IC is that? Most good FM intercoolers are designed to pass sufficient air through it to the rad such as the Greddy 3 core or Apexi GT.

Good luck as usual

[turbotoaster]

the issue i have with v mounts is the piping of it, ive not seen a walk through guide of someone doing it.

Also i dont want to have to pay for my rad to get modded as its an expense i can do without.

Have you seen builds with v mounts where the rad isnt modded?

2. Its a Trust replica of a drag skyline GTR intercooler, ive seen them run in USA/OZ at 1000bhp so should be fine for me

[S3TH]

What modifications are you referring to re. the rad in a v-mount- are you talking about brackets? V-mount is just an arrangement, the stock rx7 rad pretty much sits in the v position out of the factory but I\'m sure you could jig it to be into a more desirable (space conscious) position.

If the IC is designed properly then there\'s no real need for the half exposure theory imho, an FMIC should be exposed to as much air as poss but if your ducting is good then shouldn\'t be a problem.

[turbotoaster]

what i mean to say is your changing the rad from this /  to  \\   that means inlet/outlet pipes etc will all be in the wrong  places, unless someone can show me an easy way of running longer water piping it means modding the inlets which cost money.

The intercooler will receive air over its full exposure, its just how my setup is done is that the lower 50% of the rad would also receive pure air.

Its designed for piston engines which dont have over heating problems such as the rotary hence why im conscious of blocking to much airflow to the rad

[turbotoaster]

Got bored today so decided to put the battery in the boot, it needed doing to make room for my intercooler/rad setup

Sorry for lack of pics going through it all but it was raining hard and didnt want to spend forever outside

removed from engine bay and ran live feed to rear of car



bolted tray down to chassis then built everything else back up, connect live and ran earth wire to a bolt hole near by

[gavink]

What\'s the quality of the rad like?..I\'ve been looking for a new up-rated one but the ones on e-bay just seem to cheap to be any good?.

Look at item number 160377315042 for example..£129incl!..Just cant be very good surely?