fd electrical issues :(

Started by MaLicE, June 27, 2009, 05:11:51 PM

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MaLicE

ok the other day the car just died, no power at all, gauges flicking radio loosing power then turning back on... blablabla

so i got home started it off a battery pack and was showing below 12v on tickover so thought battery and alt was dead, so got a new bat and a new alt....

fitted it all on today had a little issue that i had disconnected the map sens vacume hose but sorted that, and it showed 13.5-14v...

drove it for a bit and the bat light keeps coming on well it glows and gets stronger then goes out, stuck the volt meter on it again and im barely getting 12v on tickover....

also!!! the dash oil press gauge has always been a bit vague but it now pretty much sits on 0 on tick over it does move when you drive but at the same time as the batt light glowing, the oil press warning light and the add coolant light both glow... however the oil is full, and im getting 3kmcg (which is over 3 bar) or whatever it is on my greddy gauge at the oil filter on tick over... on wot im seeing 6-8 kmcg which from what i can see on the info i read is right...

now why is it not charging? why are the lights on? is there a relay or something that could be ....ing up?? the f100??

any ideas people?? im clutching at straws and im running out of patients....

oh as you drive the batt light and the oil press light and the add coolant light they all go out!

AtomicRex

James....can you get it to us?  I will sort if for you!

leeroy_25

Did you sort this out?? I have the same problem on my car after having to disconnect the battery to shut it down due a a turbo timer wiring fault! Changed the alternator and it was fine first time I started it then I drove it down the road and the lights came on that you describe but in addition I also had the ABS light on?? Also mine are not dimming now.. They are just on! When it first happened they dimmed.
Help.. Like you I am at the end of my tether! I appreciate this post is a little old! Hopefully you can remember though..

Cheers
Lee

MaLicE

hi mate i went through 2 alternators in a short amount of time! if you have a power fc have a look and see what voltage you are running with the car off and then with the engine running, if not stick a voltagemeter on the bolt the big wire comes off of the alternator on... when you put the new alt on did you check to see if there was any play in the shaft? one i replaced with first did and it quickly gave up...

other thing i would recomend doing is disconnect the battery and keep your foot on the brake peddle for 30 seconds i think it is, that resets the faults in the ecu and then see if all your bulbs etc go off... i had a brake fluid warning light go on and off for a while then it just stopped... so im not sure... the electrics in rx7\'s dont seem to be that good tbh mate :( only other thing i can suggest is check all the earth points on the engine and chassis and make sure they arent corroded give them a rub with some emery paper and refit them, might be worth checking your battery clamps also... they seem to be a big weak point on rx7\'s also! i replaced mine with ones i got from halfrauds.

leeroy_25

Cheers for the reply Mate.. So you put on a new alternator and it went straight away or you had to reset some fault codes and stuff to get the lights out after changing it?
I hate car electrics.. They are so annoying! I am runnig a Power FC.. Does the reset trick work on that too? I\'ll give it a whirl and check t out with a voltmeter tomorrow. I presume there were no relays or fuses found to be at fault or any shorts in the wriing?

Thanks again
Lee

MaLicE

im not sure if it works with the power fc, if you go in to sensor check on the power fc commander it will tell you if any sensors or anything is broken... also you can check the voltage on that rather than worrying about a volt meter on the alt... i didnt find any fuses etc that were related... i went through all the fuses etc though and found 1 or 2 that were blown but were for random things :)