Retarded flywheel - removal

Started by Prof, November 24, 2009, 10:42:15 AM

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Prof

Ok,
 
Here\'s the story,
 
Engine out of car, all the ancillaries are off, and had the devils own job trying to get the 54mm nut off the engine - it met it\'s end and won\'t be going back on any car ;)
 
However, as the big but was so heavily torqued onto the shaft, the flywheel is also on so hard that it won\'t come off using the methods listed below:
 
1) Soft approach - hit the flywheel around the outer edge with a rubber mallet / soft faced hammer - FAILED
 
2) Slightly more serious approach - Pry against the rear engine casting - as described in the Haynes guide and suggested in the Service Manual - FAILED
 
3) Tough aproach - went and got a hub puller - bolted it to the flywheel -- packed the end of the eshaft with an old idle pulley mount with a big washer on it and started torquing the big screw - clang - flywheel lose - NO - it\'s cracked the hub puller casting clean through on one side - FAILED
 
What do I try now ?
 
The flywheel has to come off for the rest of the engine to come apart - I am getting tempted to take the grinder to it - but it would be a waste of a machineable flywheel and could well wreck the eshaft.
 
Ideas please...
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


steve garbutt

When using any hub puller for any perpose i always just put pressure on the puller then tap with a mallet, then tighten a little more then tap again and continue till there is movement.
Tact is the knack of making a point without making an enemy.
Steve@mazdarotaryclub.com


DR SCHNITZEL

Quote from: steve garbutt;656007When using any hub puller for any perpose i always just put pressure on the puller then tap with a mallet, then tighten a little more then tap again and continue till there is movement.

Here here. that must be on soo tight

Nitronige

You could try a bit of heat (blowtorch or other) on the flywheel whilst trying to pull/prise. Just be careful of melting seals, etc.

Nige
FD3S Black - Yay!, Classic Mini turbo Black - Yay!, Dutton Pheaton - Lambo Green - Yay! Nissan Stagea (SOLD) Silver - Yay! Daily runner, Renault Clio 1.5dci - Booooo Hissss

AtomicRex

Heat the flywheel, whilst using a puller.  Make sure you heat all around the flywheel not just around the nut section.  If you put some "spit" on the flywheel then you can tell if its hot enough when it sizzles.....just hope not in the same way as James May has sizzles!!
 
It will come with a bang though :)

HaywardRotary

Give me a buzz if you like,
I will talk you through an easy way.

Regards
Carl
We warranty our rebuilt engines for Detonation, track day\'s and RWYB and NOW for 30 months which is two and half years or 30,000 miles
We also build all types of race or road engines.
We build race and track cars too.
Any kind of porting undertaken.
Single turbo conversions.
S

bumpstart

if counter weight or flywheel  is very reluctant then try winding a couple of bolts through the puller holes provided in the flywheel
( on counterweight just pick two of the 6 circumference bolts )
wind them in until they bite into the outer edge of the rear main seal/ stat gear flange
wind in enough to make good tension,, taking up all the shaft float

then whack with mallet at the already prescribed position

-never fails -

Prof

Update - it\'s not moving :( :Grrr
 
Already tried the bolt trick - but that didn\'t work.
 
Tried Carl\'s suggestion - sadly also without success.
 
I do wonder if this was put on with some threadlock or something.  I know the eccentric shaft is tapered - and I suspect the big nut was torqued on a little too much as well - so not good at all.
 
I never had this problem with the other flywheel - and from all the comments - a couple of well served knocks is all it should usually take.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


HaywardRotary

you need to do it pretty hard Dave.
If you get stuck bring it to me and i\'ll do it for nothing.
Regards
Carl
We warranty our rebuilt engines for Detonation, track day\'s and RWYB and NOW for 30 months which is two and half years or 30,000 miles
We also build all types of race or road engines.
We build race and track cars too.
Any kind of porting undertaken.
Single turbo conversions.
S

TRex

You need to use HEAT
Get a torch on it, Tap and Pull....


 And just to brighten you up, if you think the Flywheel is a biatch, \'good luck\' with the front Crank Bolt.... jesus wept! :o
TRex the Ecowarrior - Recycling exhaust gas and using it to create energy. Just doing my bit

Prof

Quote from: TRex;656071You need to use HEAT
Get a torch on it, Tap and Pull....
 
 
And just to brighten you up, if you think the Flywheel is a biatch, \'good luck\' with the front Crank Bolt.... jesus wept! :o

That one wasn\'t a problem - big bar on it with extension and my not inconsiderable weight behind it.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


antnicuk

put some pull tension on it with a puller or the bolts through the holes as mentioned above and with a smallish metal hammer,  give it lots (really lots) of small taps all the way around the f/w,  the sonic vibration may shift it.
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!


jantore

very simple solution, get a rubber mallet. hit it hard, around the flywheel. soon it will fall off.

that\'s what i always do.

JT

Grizzly

Don\'t use a rubber mallet, it doesn\'t produce the shock needed as long as its a stock flywheel and not Alloy etc smack it quite hard with a Steel hammer on the back face (try and keep the hammer face square and don\'t catch the ring gear). You don\'t need to turn it to different positions but it some times helps.

You have to really watch using Pullers as they tend to destroy the Pilot bearing in the end of the E-shaft if your not very carefuller.

jantore

Oh yeas it does if you have one of those hard rubber mallets that is filled with sand. Hmm should have mentioned that as that is what i use and it works great.

JT