higher oil pressure for mod fc

[L18M]

hello,

this is more for the modded fc owners out there (maybe apply more to people not running pre-mix?) but just wondering if anyone is running a higher oil pressure?

got thinking after doing some reading
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/ENGINE/OIL/opr.htm

[m1tch]

Pineapple racing just puts the OEM oil pressure reg in a press break and squished it down to increase the oil pressure

http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com/videos/Oil_Pressure_Increase_With_Rear_Oil_Regulator

[bumpstart]

i do an adjustable mod to the reg,, and pill the crank pellet with a 6mm deep pill
( this blocks off the thermal pellet at all times )

for the reg,, weld a nut unto the end of it
thread on an appropriate bolt with locking nut,, wind down till you get the increase you need
-- beware making head of bolt too long and interfering middle plate

wound in about half settings i have 95 psi ( cold at idle )
and 45 psi hot idle and 85 psi hot at 2500 rpm

[m1tch]

i do an adjustable mod to the reg,, and pill the crank pellet with a 6mm deep pill
( this blocks off the thermal pellet at all times )

for the reg,, weld a nut unto the end of it
thread on an appropriate nut with locking nut,, wind down till you get the increase you need
-- beware making head of bolt too long and interfering middle plate

wound in about half settings i have 95 psi ( cold at idle )
and 45 psi hot idle and 85 psi hot at 2500 rpm

When I saw the photo before reading I thought that was just a bolt stuck into the oil pressure reg...:rolleyes:

Looks good though if its adjustable like the butterfly waxcam thing in the intake

[bumpstart]

When I saw the photo before reading I thought that was just a bolt stuck into the oil pressure reg...:rolleyes:

Looks good though if its adjustable like the butterfly waxcam thing in the intake

it IS basically a bolt jammed into the end of the reg
one bolt, two nuts,, weld one on

the reg outlet is actually on the side of the reg ,, and the bolt is serving the same purpose as the bashed in end of the pineapple reg
-- both serving to compress the spring inside the reg
the bolt method is adjustable to whatever max setting you desire from 70 -100 psi
( and can be reset and also adjusted with sump removed )

the crushed end method is done once, forever, too bad if its too much

[L18M]

i do an adjustable mod to the reg,, and pill the crank pellet with a 6mm deep pill
( this blocks off the thermal pellet at all times )

for the reg,, weld a nut unto the end of it
thread on an appropriate bolt with locking nut,, wind down till you get the increase you need
-- beware making head of bolt too long and interfering middle plate

wound in about half settings i have 95 psi ( cold at idle )
and 45 psi hot idle and 85 psi hot at 2500 rpm

thats awesome! took me a couple of reads to understand it (just me being nt that mechanical lol)
do you need to do anything to the front reg?

as the link to pineapple racing mentions sth about it.

[bumpstart]

thats awesome! took me a couple of reads to understand it (just me being nt that mechanical lol)
do you need to do anything to the front reg?

as the link to pineapple racing mentions sth about it.

nada

even in the 12a front timing cover,, the front reg lifts at 156 psi
this is to protect the oil cooler from rupture i suspect
- and its still well above anything i have set the rear reg to
i leave it be as is and haven\'t had any issues from it AFAIK

[Prof]

I was going to ask that question, as the front one is listed as pressure regulator in the pdf manuals, and the back one doesn\'t get a mention.
 
So that means the back one is the main oil pressure setting then ?
 
I\'ve seen one without the chamfered end - just a bolt end - is that one an adjustable then ?
 
Quick other oil question - where\'s the best place to put an oil temp sender ?
 
I\'ve seen them fitted to sandwich plates - but that oil has just come back from the oil cooler.  I wonderd about oil pan or the oil feed to the turbo, or the oil going to the oil cooler ?

[bumpstart]

in mazda speak ( from the s4 training supplement ),, front reg is termed "control valve" its set at 156 psi
and the rear one is termed " regulator valve " it is set to 71 psi

being the lower rated of the two ( 71 psi for s4 engines )
the rear regulator valve is actually doing the job of regulating oil pressure by bypassing excess pressure to the sump
the "control valve" is taking the roll of a safety relief valve
assume that this is to protect oil cooler integrity

going as far back as the 1971 r100/rx2 scientific repair manual
i have the rear reg termed as "regulator valve"
these early PRV\'s appear physically similar to the front control valve in design
IE
 the front valve has its body as the casting in the timing cover
 the early rear one has a removable 6 sided hex body
( but with same bolt, spring valve seat arrangement as the front one )
later motors ( expect the change is late 70\'s ) have the PRV as the taper ended,, unadjustable type

its these early bolt headed rx regs that you unscrew the head off,, and add shims too,, so to uprate the spring and hence relief pressure

in similar vein,, the "control valve" of all of the generations can be similarly uprated if desired
( me thinks 156 psi is plenty already )

as for oil temp,, its an old argument,, measure post cooler or measure the sump
mazda chose sump thermostats in some models /markets of early rx7
for their crude emissions schedule they required for whatever reasons,, this averaged reading was considered sufficient

for those in HP or experimental scenarios it may not be the optimum location
of which fast acting gauges may be better used if placed under the filter pedastel
or if rebuilding then tapping the star bung on the edge of the front plate for the sender
- taking the temp of oil as it is about to feed the front stat
( last in queue in the OEM serial feed arrangement )
[ this last location is often tapped to add a supply line for the front stat in motors where the serial oil supply is adapted to a parallel one ]

[Prof]

You got a picture of where exactly that is ?
 
Is there plenty of material to get a sensor in there without restricting oil flows ?
 
(Sorry for all the questions

[bumpstart]

this is the star bung to seal the gallery tapping for the front stat
if your probe is bushed correctly to allow only 20mm of seating into the plate
it will not interfere with the flow to the front stat

just out of frame,, cut off in the pic just below the bottom stud is another stake bung
-- this one is for feed directly off the oil pump,, bypassing the front reg or timing cover passage
( a loop line from here to the stat gallery is often a mod to introduce parallel
oil supply for hipo engines )