Helllpppp! lost power idles real bad

Started by MARKPRIOR, August 19, 2009, 06:12:57 PM

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rx jamie

i was going to say rotaries are much more expensive to rebuild than piston engines.

forging a piston engine is peanuts these days. under 500 quid for the pistons ( 4 pot ) if you get them from abroad. ive just fully rebuilt my missus c20xe with new shells, regrind, rings, head and block skim, ground in 16 new valves and all the seals for less than 300 quid.

wish i could rebuild my 13b-rew for that lol.

Prof

I would think if you wanted to do it on the cheap then it\'s entirely possible - seal kits aren\'t massively expensive, and you could use a good used housing if you need to replace one of those - rotors are usually ok.
 
If you\'ve spent money out initially on something like PTS apex seals, then you\'d be reusing them and the housings - most likely you\'d have just \'popped\' one of the rubber seals out - that sort of rebuild is cheap :cheers
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


MARKPRIOR

cool will check the bills to see what materials were used

cheers

HaywardRotary

Quote from: Prof;638156I would think if you wanted to do it on the cheap then it\'s entirely possible - seal kits aren\'t massively expensive, and you could use a good used housing if you need to replace one of those - rotors are usually ok.
 
If you\'ve spent money out initially on something like PTS apex seals, then you\'d be reusing them and the housings - most likely you\'d have just \'popped\' one of the rubber seals out - that sort of rebuild is cheap :cheers

Rubber seals popped out will not create this sort of problem.
Regards
Carl
We warranty our rebuilt engines for Detonation, track day\'s and RWYB and NOW for 30 months which is two and half years or 30,000 miles
We also build all types of race or road engines.
We build race and track cars too.
Any kind of porting undertaken.
Single turbo conversions.
S

Prof

Quote from: HaywardRotary;638173Rubber seals popped out will not create this sort of problem.
Regards
Carl

Yeh - I know - my post was more in relation to the cost of rebuilds and the comparisons being made to boinger rebuilds being cheaper, as not all rebuilds on a rotary are necessarily so expensive.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


stacy

Mark,

Have you compression tested it yet - just interested..

BTW you can use a standard compression tester. You just need to remove the pressure valve arrangement so that you can see the needle moving on each pulse. You can do it without (the end valve protrudes no further than some Mazda approved plugs) but you\'ll only get the peak reading as has been mentioned.

We use a modified unit regularly post session and races to keep an eye on engine health. Not as precise as the full tool, but enought to be indicative of a problem which is what you\'re trying to achieve.

S.

stacy

Quote from: MARKPRIOR;637148bugger, managed to check the tubby sunday and that was fine so nothing has shot out and mangled that at least, couldnt get the plugs out to check them, is there a special tool to get them out as they seem to be in a tiny recess and i couldnt get my plug spanner on them

When you\'re using certain types of plugs in a 13B housing with the plug covers not ground off (which it sounds like you have) you\'ll need a slim fit plug spanner, your usual socket will be too thick. Can be turned down in a lathe to fit.

Alternative is either ground the housings back when it\'s being rebuilt, or use the other type of plugs.

FYI These are the type that don\'t require a thin wall socket;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NGK-BUR9EQ-RX7-FC3S-FD3S-13B-13BT-S4-13BREW-13BRE-mazda_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ220466899456

These are the type that do;

http://www.shop-racing.com/boutique_us/fiche_produit.cfm?ref=SR_NGK_B105EGP&type=182&code_lg=lg_us&num=191

(it\'s the bit above the thread I\'m showing you, not the electrodes or the grades).

S.

MARKPRIOR

thanks for the advice stacy the compression check is getting don tomorrow hopfully :D

stacy

Mark,

Do double check the pressure tester doesn\'t protrude further than the plug if you\'re doing that, the standard issue ones don\'t but I don\'t want to be the one that clobbers a tip!

rx jamie


davehg

i have a good compression tested engine for sale if your interested? txt or call me on 07709136667
There are performance cars and then there is the RX-7...........

12.3 second 1/4 mile, terminal speed of 122mph (1st ever drag run on a TO4R)

engine built by....... umm me! now powered by a T51 Kai......

MARKPRIOR

well folks jamie is having a look for me today hopefully will get an idea of what is wrong :D

MARKPRIOR

well tried last night, tried leads, MAP sensor etc... but still couldnt get the plugs out to get a compression test arrrrgh

so now a tool has been "created" to get them out lol, at it again tonight

Speedworks

Hy mate, I\'m in thesame boat. Built myself a new engine (new plates, new housings) and got around to do less than 2000km.

Then I just floored it once in 1stegear and suddenly no power, bumpy idle and a vac reading fo only 0.3kg (instead of a steady 0.4kg+) before.


checked the map sensor and it had a tear in the line, hoped it would fix it but no...still thesame. so will have to rebuild what is an as good as new engine...
bugger

MARKPRIOR

well comp test done

rear 7.0, 7.0, 6.5

front 0, 0, 0,


will be getting sold as is for 5k if anyones interested drop me a pm or email markprior20@hotmail.com

spec here - http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58801

sickend!