Adviced needed ASAP: serious engine movement / cooling / steering issues

[AtomicRex]

Thats not quite correct. The gauge isnt in steam. At 1.9 bar (or 0.9 bar above atmospheric which is what you are basically pressurizing the system to with a 0.9 bar cap) the boiling point of pure water is 120. So the gauge isnt in steam until 120 degC

This is very true...it isn\'t actually in a gaseous state until the water is actually boiling.
 
The caps are rated between 16.4 and 20.6 psi which is equivalent to a boiling point of 127.88 to 135.02 deg C
 
However I was simplifying the system by saying that in my experience the water doesn\'t always stay filled up to the cap, and so therefore there is air between the water level and the sensor.  OK so the air isn\'t necessarily steam, but I think we are talking semantics here.
 
By putting the sensor in a boss lower down the system you are guaranteed of always being in water, and so the reading will be a lot more accurate.

[FlikstRR]

If you\'re still running the stock mounts then they won\'t poke up with the abuse for long. Iirc you can still get competition mounts from MazdaSpeed USA.

aye that was my thoughts too. I\'ve just ordered a full set of solid mounts from states. :yes

I think he means when they are switched off - he mentioned somewhere that he had a switch in the cabin to turn them on and off.

I did.. I forgot to turn the fans on after queueing the car up for qualifying.. came back and it was scary hot.. i dont recall ever having a stadard fan so to speak, only the aftermarket ones.. so wsa curious of the OEM idle temps.

I can\'t help thinking that part of the problem is drift cars tend to push high output powers and generate a lot of heat, without necessarily going very fast through the air -  so rads and intercoolers need to be that much bigger to get rid of the heat generated.
How big is the rad ?  Also, there are different flow patterns through radiators - some have an N pattern that provides a longer path through the rad to allow more cooling time (Koyo for example)

That is right on the nail, and the main battle for drift cars. Everyone knows it and its a constant struggle. The FC is in early stages of development, this being the first itteration. Carl @ Haywards is on it and is always improving it, this was just for my own knowledge research. Cars going for ducting and  setup changes this week.

This is very true...it isn\'t actually in a gaseous state until the water is actually boiling.
 
The caps are rated between 16.4 and 20.6 psi which is equivalent to a boiling point of 127.88 to 135.02 deg C
 
However I was simplifying the system by saying that in my experience the water doesn\'t always stay filled up to the cap, and so therefore there is air between the water level and the sensor.  OK so the air isn\'t necessarily steam, but I think we are talking semantics here.
 
By putting the sensor in a boss lower down the system you are guaranteed of always being in water, and so the reading will be a lot more accurate.

interesting to know, i dont know what ratings my caps are off top of my heat, but with a sensor to fit soon, im curious to what location you have/would use in an FC? Im thinking the rad hose (at top)? Like i did on my s14 SR20?

[AtomicRex]

That is exactly where I would put it.