flashing heat light

Started by neil_jdmr, July 04, 2009, 11:11:47 AM

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neil_jdmr

:eek:
What\'s the crack,
It only ever flashing on part throttle but over the last two outings it has started doing it a bit to regular for my liking. It never flashes on wot and my knock levels seem to be the same as they have always been (between 20 and 110 and i know this would normally murder an engine but its what its always been since pip mapped it).
Also while flipping through the menus on the pfc i noticed that my injector setting\'s for injectors are: pri 550 sec 850, is this standard or am i running 850 secondries, It was a full extensive rebuild from jimmy\'s so iam fairly sure it will be all standard equipment but just though id pose the question.
Anyhoo looking for someone to put my mind at rest about the knock/flashinglight stuff before i ring pip

Thanks guys
Standard sequential, standard engine, Oem body, 1.2bar, WI

Twins retired. KKK K27 1.25bar courtesy of Jason and Stu

neil_jdmr

Apart from the obvious ( blowin up ) are there any way\'s of telling whether its real knock or just a problem with the sensor/wiring. I cannot hear any pinking or getting any issues with power loss etc.

Also i have heard that "only knock at wot is worth worrying about" can anyone confirm or deny this as it doesnt seem right to me as surely det anytime will rattle the seals.
 
 
 
 
anyone there ???
Standard sequential, standard engine, Oem body, 1.2bar, WI

Twins retired. KKK K27 1.25bar courtesy of Jason and Stu

gsb876

I think the heat switch comes on when at full boost ??? will have to check that one though Neil.

Standard is 550 & 850\'s mate so if the PFC says that then they will be mapped for those.

What is the boost setting at ? you can check on the PFC under settings then toggle down to boost.
"Every generation has the chance to change the world"

Mills & Bains guest author :Giggle

neil_jdmr

Boost is set at 0.8bar and was mapped by pip,
 
For reference mods are:
dp
de-cat
nurspec
arc smic
hks shrooms
pfc
 
It has been trouble free and is still pulling like a train since pip mapped it last year just since ive read about the heat light flashing usually means knock and knock means dead engine ive since got a bit concerned.
Standard sequential, standard engine, Oem body, 1.2bar, WI

Twins retired. KKK K27 1.25bar courtesy of Jason and Stu

philiwily

I think knock is only a problem at wot or under load, its more likely a dodgy knock sensor or something on the engine rattling.
Im sure someone more knowledgeable will come along and explain.

Phil

neil_jdmr

Ok quick update,
I now believe it is likely to be just the sensor because while monitoring the pfc through various driving conditions i can hold about 4k rpm\'s in 2nd or 3rd gear and the knock reading holds very high and if it goes above 100 then this activates the heat light.
Whilst holding the rev\'s around the 4k mark so that the knock level exceeds 100 bringing on the light i am not even generating positive boost and am far from wot so I\'m thinking at this point in the rev range is where the engine is vibrating most causing the high reading\'s on the pfc/heat light.
 
So, two questions

1) does the above theory sound about right
 
2) So where does the knock sensor go and how much are new ones?
 
Thanks
Standard sequential, standard engine, Oem body, 1.2bar, WI

Twins retired. KKK K27 1.25bar courtesy of Jason and Stu

trotter

You will find the knock sensor on the front rotor housing, about half-way down on the right-hand side (facing the car) its a wee thing, about 1" long. (see page C-36 on the link)

clicky

IIRC the sensors about £70 or so new but can pick them up from blown engines etc for cheaper
Work hard, play hard house :D

neil_jdmr

Ok getting a bit worried now,
 
cat heat light is flashing regular now pretty much anything above 4k rpm and the knock is reading between 80-115 also above 4k
 
at idle the knock value is a perfectly normal 1-3 but upon any throttle it leaps up, and normal sub 4k rpm driving its anywhere up to 80.
 
today i found a bolt from the uim had worked loose, dropped and wedged itself next to the knock sensor so i removed it and fitted it back into the uim. I though woohoo that will sure have fixed it but i just come back from a test run and its still the same.
 
seeing as my pfc was mapped by one of the uk top tuners (pip) i gather it should be fine and at full boost(0.8bar) and wot im usually sub 100 knock reading, but im fairly sure this has only just started happening .
 
i know for sure the heat light is only flashing because the knock reading goes to max (over 100) but anyone, please any more ideas what to check before i spend £££ trailing my ass all the way down the country to see pip.
 
Would my motor be dead already if these readings were true? only thing is the idle reading seems fine.
 
mucho thankio
Standard sequential, standard engine, Oem body, 1.2bar, WI

Twins retired. KKK K27 1.25bar courtesy of Jason and Stu

neil_jdmr

Talked to pip yesterday afternoon and thought i would post what he said just to close this out incase anyone else ever has the same issue.

he is 99% sure that knock is certainly not the case and is confident that a loose engine mount/exhaust mount or similar is the offender so im gonna get underneath and have a good search around. Since the high knock reading/flashing light is only happening on part throttle i.e less than 50% then it could not be true knock especially when at wot and full boost im getting much lower figures.

Apparently between 3-4.5k rpm is where any vibration is most noticable so if something is not as tight/solid as it should be this is where i would see it, Which i am.

Thanks for everyone\'s input and another thumbs-up for pip for being a helpful friendly chap.
Standard sequential, standard engine, Oem body, 1.2bar, WI

Twins retired. KKK K27 1.25bar courtesy of Jason and Stu