Problem after airpump removal...

Ste00 · June 24, 2009, 03:15:19 PM

Quote from: Prof;619570You got me - I thought all the EGI\'s had those - where is Brett when you need him !?

Just out of interest - the pipe you\'ve blanked with a bolt - is that bolt one with a hole in or is it solid ?

Its solid, I think what i will do is get some new pics when i get home tonight of what i have removed and done ect and post them up (i\'m sat in a airconditioned office in conwy at the moment that is still 20 odd degrees+)

I am at a loss as to why my engine seems different

Ste00 · June 24, 2009, 07:28:13 PM

right she now idles (blanking plate was lose on one bolt)

but she is bouncing around like mad and sounds like a sewing mechine... she has oil pressure so i am thinking its a missifire... do i need to ajust the idle using the initial set thing and the screw ontop of the mainfold to try and get her smoother? she was never this bad with the airpump on...

pdtaylor18 · June 24, 2009, 10:20:30 PM

You will need to adjust the idle as I had to on mine. Also you will have to check the TPS after each adjust as it can throw it off.
Well done on getting it to idle, it can only get better from here.

Ste00 · June 24, 2009, 10:23:58 PM

so is it supposed to sound like a sewing mechine until i ajust it? if it was a normal engine i would say it was the top end rattling...

Prof · June 24, 2009, 10:29:12 PM

Yes - unfortunately the timing / tps / idle all seem to conspire together - you set one correctly and then need to go set the others again. I normally start with getting the idle revs about right once the car is well warm. Then I set the TPS using the resistance method - not sure if you\'ve got single or dual TPS on the EGI - I can give you method for dual - single you\'ll find on the fc3spro.com site.

Once the idle and TPS are sorted, I set the timing with all the electricals switched off. Then I let the car cool down and start it again - if the TPS is correct it shouldn\'t \'hunt\' as it warms up. You may still have a small vac leak if it hunts by the way.

Well done for finding the cause of it not holding idle - these things aren\'t easy to find sometimes.

Ste00 · June 24, 2009, 10:34:22 PM

ok thats good then... just panicing that i had killed somthing else in the process of removing the airpump...

Guess at the weekend its time to get the timing gun out... might evean treat it to a oil change since she is in a good mood...

Thanks for all the help everyone... think i might have to get the credit card out and become a full member at this rate

pdtaylor18 · June 24, 2009, 10:49:26 PM

Thats the trouble with these engine is that even simple jobs can be long and drawn out for the silly little things. Its quite easy to look too deep when the answer is nearly always right under your nose. On the timing side as Dave has already stated its important to time the car when its nice and hot so that your cold start side of things does not interfer with the idle.
Glad this Forum has given the answers you need, get yourself a Full member on here and post some pics of your car, its always nice to see what others are up to.

johnm · June 25, 2009, 08:47:24 AM

Go back to basics - what did you disturb? If you did touch it, don\'t change it in a effort to fix the issue. Everything said, says an air leak. Couple of basic I have learnt with my six port engine. UK and US 6 port engines are quite different, the US 6-port actuator is gets a pressure signal from exhaust back pressure, the actuators are the big lumps forward and behind the blanking plated added to LIM. The UK model has a vacuum controlled actuator, these are located on the other side of the LIM and mounted to the engine casing. Our engines have a butterfly valve, US models have a slide valve. The ECU controls a solenoid valve and the vacuum is allowed to open valves. The valves open an additional port in the manifold for extra high end power - if these function or not is nothing to do with low rpm running, if stuck open (they fail closed) only results in less torque.

When I removed my air pump I remember adding two planking plates. one at the rear of the LIM, I think, can check tonight.

The timing should not have changed by removing the air pump, our distributer is also different from the US. It should be a mechanical advance with vacuum advance on leading a trailing also.

Get someone to sit in your car and rev high enough to run. Use a tube (1/2" or similar), put one end to your ear and move the other end around the areas of the LIM and you should hear the rush of air leaking in to the inlet manifold. The air leak will be on the LIM or UIM.

John

Ste00 · June 25, 2009, 10:19:09 AM

johnm, She is running and idling now but sounds like a sewing machine (if i could find the cable for my phone I would up-load a vid)

I did try to adjust the idle with the screw ontop of the UIM before i found the airleak so now its probably miles out... seems to idle ok but rattles a lot... the oil pressure is good though and the engine was rebuilt not long ago by hurley and has never rattled before... so i am thinking its somthing to do with the TPS and idle throwing the wrong signals to the ecu as the engine seems to "bounce" on idle now (shakes the car a bit)...

johnm · June 25, 2009, 11:01:27 AM

The TPS does make things run rough if defective or set incorrectly. If it has failed you can get a replacement from RS Components, bought mine ages ago so idea of the part number.

Ste00 · November 28, 2009, 06:28:25 PM

HUGE bump...

got my thumb out of a cirtan hole and now setup the TPS and the screw on top of the intake and she finally idle\'s... tad over 1k but its constant... (assuming i did right, disconnect the tps when the engine is warm then set the resistance to 1 closed and 5 open (though mine would only hit 4.7 open))

now the only issue i have is how do i get it to drop back to ~750 as when i reduce the screw on top of the intake any more it starts to stutter...

need to get her back on the road asap my 4x4 is drinking more fuel than this did when the tank was leaking...