Problem after airpump removal...

Started by Ste00, June 04, 2009, 07:21:13 PM

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Ste00

at the weekend i removed the airpump and ACV on my EGI but now she wont start... i have blocked the 1 pipe that went to the acv that was left on the car but she just starts then dies...
 
Anyone got any pics of a egi engine with the airpump removed?
 
Could it be because i have welded up the 4 slots on the exhaust downpipe were it joins my de-cat pipe?

pdtaylor18

Have you blanked off all the vacuum pipes that are now not needed?
The exhaust side will be nothing to do with the car not starting.
1990 TII Cab JDM- Lambo Orange- HKS GT3037 turbo,Apexi PFC and datalogit,Greddy FMIC,Trust coilovers,18" Antera 10J 265 rears, 18" 8.5J 235 fronts

Paypal: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com
Email: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com

Pete[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Ste00

I thought i had but i might not have,
 
My ACV (assume thats what it is, drivers side just above the exhaust mani), this has been removed along with the round disc inside it and blanked and the 2 small pipes that went to it blocked off, the big pipe that went to the "muffler" under the headlight has been left open, the metal pipe on the manifold has been left open,
 
The pipe that went to the cat has been blocked at the cat end,
 
Pics and vids of whats been blocked and her running are at :
 
no other pipes have been changed except for the homemade cat on it, http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/Ste00/
 
laptop is currently sat ontop of the car so quick replys would be super helpful on this one :)

Bobbit

Did you remove the uim? If so have you checked the ICV plug, white plug behind/under the uim. I left this off and she wouldn\'t start
:Laugh LOL


                                       

Ste00

No all i have took off is the Airpump and the ACV that it connected to on the outside of the engine above the exhaust manifold,
 
Is their somthing on a EGI that i have to take off on the UIM?

Ste00

Right a quick up-date,
 
She seems to fire up do the whole 3k revs thing then the instant she comes off the 3k rev thing she cuts out...
 
Anyone any ideas? i am tearing my hair out and want her back on the road ASAP

pdtaylor18

set everything up correctly, TPS,idle,check all the Vac lines etc. If this does not work then it may be something unrelated to the work you have had done in air pump removal.
Give the AFM a good exercise amd make sure you have good fuel pressure.
Theres plenty of info on this topic on the rx7club.com site that might give you some better pointers, I think there is more to do on the EGI\'s than the TII\'s.
1990 TII Cab JDM- Lambo Orange- HKS GT3037 turbo,Apexi PFC and datalogit,Greddy FMIC,Trust coilovers,18" Antera 10J 265 rears, 18" 8.5J 235 fronts

Paypal: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com
Email: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com

Pete[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Ste00

Right i have done some more digging today and found this: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/tech_s4_na_emissions_removal.html followed number 28 as i dont want to remove all the rats nest and UIM unless i have to...
 
problem is their pic
 
Differs from my engine :
 
Also their point 27 (the one under 30 strangly...) i dont have that valve on mine...
 

 
I dont seem to have the same pipes around mine as theirs does...
 
also i manged to get her started before (after blowing the main 80a fuse by being a idiot that doesnt know + from -, damm lucky thats all i blew though) she will run if i give her some right foot but i dont want to give her right foot all the time... also when she did run their was a cloud of black smoke under the bonnet... so i am thinking weather my blanking plate was sealing... or is the exhaust leaking... or is she about to go pop...
 
starting to wish i had of not bothered making the de-cat now... :2Rolleyes

Ste00

I still cant get her to idle... she will run with throttle on but instant she hits idle she sounds like a V8 and seems to mssfire...

Prof

If it runs with gas, and also when warming up,  but as soon as it\'s warm and you let off the gas it dies off, then you almost certainly have a vac leak.  You need to get some carb cleaner or something that will burn (be careful with this or it might not go too well ;) ) and spray it around the area you\'ve been working - ie at any blanking plates etc.  If the rev\'s pick up when you spray on something that\'s where your leak is.  It won\'t need to be all that big either - a small bolt size hole will kill the idle.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


pdtaylor18

might be best to undo what you have done and see if the probelm still persists, bit of work I know but if you have done all the things that have been suggested you might not have much choice.
1990 TII Cab JDM- Lambo Orange- HKS GT3037 turbo,Apexi PFC and datalogit,Greddy FMIC,Trust coilovers,18" Antera 10J 265 rears, 18" 8.5J 235 fronts

Paypal: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com
Email: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com

Pete[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Ste00

Quote from: Prof;618954If it runs with gas, and also when warming up,  but as soon as it\'s warm and you let off the gas it dies off, then you almost certainly have a vac leak.  You need to get some carb cleaner or something that will burn (be careful with this or it might not go too well ;) ) and spray it around the area you\'ve been working - ie at any blanking plates etc.  If the rev\'s pick up when you spray on something that\'s where your leak is.  It won\'t need to be all that big either - a small bolt size hole will kill the idle.

So its not somthing that i have blocked off that i shouldnt have? is their anything that could make the engine go bang if blocked?

I think i will get some carb cleaner at the weekend and keep the fire extingusher handy...

Need to get her running again soon so i can finish the re-spray and do the brakes...

Prof

As far as I know, the only thing that stops working when you remove the air pump on an N/A EGI is the aux port actuators - these are the round canister things in your picture which use air pressure to open up to additional ports at higher rpm. There is a right up somewhere on how to replace these with electric actuation.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Ste00

Quote from: Prof;619305As far as I know, the only thing that stops working when you remove the air pump on an N/A EGI is the aux port actuators - these are the round canister things in your picture which use air pressure to open up to additional ports at higher rpm. There is a right up somewhere on how to replace these with electric actuation.

My picture is the larger one of the two, mine doesn\'t have the 2 actuators... now i am getting really confused? :3Confused

So is mine a EGI with only 4 ports? as the castings for were the actuators look like they should go are blanked off from the factory not with plates...

Prof

Quote from: Ste00;619506My picture is the larger one of the two, mine doesn\'t have the 2 actuators... now i am getting really confused? :3Confused
 
So is mine a EGI with only 4 ports? as the castings for were the actuators look like they should go are blanked off from the factory not with plates...
You got me - I thought all the EGI\'s had those - where is Brett when you need him !?
 
Just out of interest - the pipe you\'ve blanked with a bolt - is that bolt one with a hole in or is it solid ?
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex