fc t2 running probs

Started by garyfcturbo, June 15, 2009, 01:06:30 AM

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garyfcturbo

right the fc is playing up dont know wot it is exactly but we suspect a vac hose somewhere..
it runs but is a bitch to start and then will not idle properly either idles very lumpy and rocks the engine alot or cuts out and dies..
if u feather the throttle a bit eventualy it powers up and as long as u dont drop the revvs to much it holds the revvs and dosent cut but dosent sound right..
its geting plenty of fule and is sparking no lose connections, we figure it must be air.. its sounds and feels like its got an air leak somewhere.. i have a video of it running but dont have time to put it up...
any ideas..???
we have checked all the pipes that are easy to get to and its none of them the induction feed pipe had popped off the turbo but we re,fitted that and it wasnt that also no in or out play on the turbo..
 
ideas please???

L18M

this sounded like my fc when i got her...
symptoms as above.
turned out to be faulty ecu
might be worth trying diff ecu as thats relatively quick n easy to swap over.
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

Prof

Is it hard to start hot or cold or both ?  Poor starting could be an indicator of low compression
 
If it\'s idling badly, then the idle system could be failing - without knowing what\'s been taken off the engine (in terms of cold warm up wax device, emissions and so forth) it\'s hard to say what the problem might be.
 
Generally if you\'ve only got a vac leak, the car will start fine when cold, but as the revs drop and the car warms up it will tend to cut out.
 
Poorly adjusted TPS can also cause idle problems - so that\'s another place to lool.  Some of the symptoms of this - idle will osciallate, car will rev up or the revs might drop when the clutch pedal is pressed, poor fuel economy (poorer than usual :Giggle)
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


rx7pat

I had similar symptons on my fc, hate to say it but mine ended up being one rotor blown. The shaking was the engine running on one rotor, and when i floored it the speed of the engine made it seem like it was running as normal. Hope this is\'nt the same but worth getting a compression test done. Good luck!

garyfcturbo

yea is the same mate have had it tested its done the front rotor :( cheers for the ideas fellas should be going for a rebuild and street port soon

rx7pat

Thats what im doing, hoping to have it back for Rotorstock 6:driving

Mobilemick

Quotet runs but is a bitch to start and then will not idle properly either idles very lumpy and rocks the engine alot or cuts out and dies..


just bought a non running rx7, been stood for 5yrs,   put new plugs in and its doing exactly as described in you first post,

Didnt drain out the old fuel,  possibly 1/4 tank,  but put a couple of gallons in,

Will test the commpressions next chance i get,

did manage to test one of the rotors using a normal compression tester and it waqs pumping up to 4 bar, if i kept the button pressed in it did jump up and down to 3 bar #/

Mick

Mobilemick

UPDATE........

no compression at all on top plug nice pulse on rear one so now car for sale offers over £200 please

L18M

Quote from: Mobilemick;632201UPDATE........

no compression at all on top plug nice pulse on rear one so now car for sale offers over £200 please

is it cab or coupe?
if coupe then papercup (sp) might be interested as...
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58157
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

Mobilemick