Electrical Fault

Started by Ricco_04, April 01, 2009, 05:16:48 PM

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Jono FD3

might be a problem inside the aulternator..... bro is an AA man and he whent out to a mini & found the aulternator was at fault & was drawing 2 amps even when everything was off & car locked!! this would kill the battery in about 3 hrs!!

Jono

Ricco_04

Hmmmm yeah sounds rather similar with the alternator.  Best go down to the leccy bloke and have her checked out, you never know what they might find...

Ok so I put new battery on today and have the following (Big thanks to Andy for sorting me out there :)) :

Battery voltage with and without engine running is 12.0v and 14.2v respective so that looks good.  It is still highlighting the fuel voltage at the same 4.98v - What readings are other people getting for this??? (running engine or just ignition)

Also did another sensor check without engine running and with....





Cheers for thos other sensor codes Ash.  Got a couple more when I was pressing switches too....

PIM : ? Voltage
VTA1 : ? Voltage
VTA2 : ? Voltage
VMOP : Oil Metering Pump Voltage
WTRT : ? Voltage
AIRT : Air Temperature Sensor Voltage
FUEL : Fuel Pump Voltage
O2S : Oxygen Sensor Voltage
STR : ? ON/OFF
A/C : Air Conditioning ON/OFF
PWS : ? ON/OFF
NTR : Neutral Gear ON/OFF
CLT : Clutch Sensor ON/OFF (Clutch engaged/ disengaged)
ELD : Electrical Load  ON/OFF (such as rear demist & lights)
HWL : Emmisions control ON/OFF (inlet manifold)
FPD : ? ON/OFF
FPR : ? ON/OFF
APR : ? ON/OFF
PAC : Port air control ON/OFF
CCN : Charge control ON/OFF
TCN : ? ON/OFF
PRC : ? ON/OFF

pdtaylor18

Without engine running you should be getting as close to 12V as possible. With engine running then you might see readings around 13.5-14V but not sure what the FD ones kick out. A multimeter should pick up any drop in voltage, might be a good idea to check this when its cold and when hot. Temp does play a factor in wriggly amps and something may be breaking down with temp. I would also turn everything off and see what the voltage is then,turn things on one at a time and see what current they are drawing. Does sound like a dodgy alternator but even someone from somewhere like KwikFit will be able to tell you.
1990 TII Cab JDM- Lambo Orange- HKS GT3037 turbo,Apexi PFC and datalogit,Greddy FMIC,Trust coilovers,18" Antera 10J 265 rears, 18" 8.5J 235 fronts

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Mimus

Hey,
I was wondering about the ELD sensor on the Apexi, as I had a dead battery the other day after leaving the car over the weekend. Jump started it and everything now seems fine, even started again the next day, but looking at the Commander the ELD sensor is permanently lit, even turning everything I can think of on and off. Sure it wasn\'t like that before. :/

Might just be getting paranoid, but driving back from work the battery voltage started strongly at about 14.4V but was slowly creeping down during the journey until it was at 14.0 by the end. Anything to worry about? What\'s the best way to diagnose any of these problems?

Cheers,
.
Mike

AshRX

Nothing to worry about at all mate. Those figures are perfectly fine

Mimus

cool, cheers. It was more that it was dropping down slowly as I was driving, but figure I\'m getting paranoid :)

Still not sure what caused the dead battery in the first place though, which is why I was wondering about the ELD light.

gandyRX

could it be the light in the boot? might be stuck on for some reason