SOS! Help needed with T2 in bath area

Started by Carolgees, April 16, 2009, 03:51:25 PM

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Carolgees

Right, long story cut short: I\'ve now sold my nice EGI and am trying to get my POS \'fred flintstone spec\' T2 started.

Is there a rotary expert near Bath that would come and have a look at it for me please???

In short: My mate Neil discovered the fuel pump didn\'t have power. Now that\'s been sorted the engine turns over and has started a couple of times but dies after a second or so. Now it turns over and I get the odd huge bang.

The turbo doesn\'t have an exhaust attached to it. The intercooler is pretty my \'sitting\' in place with the hoses pushed on (but they\'re fairly tight, I would have though tight enough for it to start and idle ok)

I haven\'t checked things like plugs, etc yet because getting the car started wasn\'t a priority when I was last down there (I live in Kent, keep the car at a mate\'s near Bath)

Any ideas/offers of help? I will try and save it if I can get the engine running again.

Brett

Ok check/do the following:

1) Ensure all hoses are airtight and properly secured
2) You will at least need the downpipe & O2 sensor connected up
2) Check the Pressure sensor is connected electrically and pneumatically
3) Remove the plugs - if they are at all suspect change them for new ones
4) Put fresh fuel in the tank
5) Try again

If it repeats the starting but wont hold the idle then your main culprit will be the cold start assist system.

:wave
Brap Brap Brap Brap

Prof

Just to add:
 
It will not hold idle if the Air flow Meter isn\'t connected, it will if the 02 sensor isn\'t.
 
Most likely cause of it starting and dying is an air leak - so as Brett says, do up those pipes !
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Carolgees

Cheers guys.

I\'ve put new fuel in it and it dies even if I add throttle. So I thought the pump might be up the shoot but I checked that and it squirted everywhere so no probs with fuel supply.

To be honest, it was the massive bangs that worried me.

You mention it\'ll need at least a downpipe and ECU attached - presumably this is for ECU adjustment of the fuel/air mixture? I originally thought this might be the culprit, but if so, how did it start before? It refuses to start at all now. :3Confused

I\'ll go through those checks next time I\'m down there and report back on here. In the meantime, if anyone wants to lend a hand please let me know

m1tch

The O2 sensor on the FC is only used when you are on cruise, nothing else lol Make sure that all the pipes are ok and none are split, also make sure that the MAF is connected tightly in, also perhaps check the recirc/bov as any tiny leaks will mean it will idle badly, my BOV is leaking every so slightly and it means it doesn\'t idle right, so if there is any split or anything in any hoses it won\'t be able to idle.

Don\'t worry about the bangs, that will just be due to the engine being flooded from trying to start it lots lol

if you need to unflood try this:

1. take the EGI fuse out (its 1 of the fuses in the engine bay, battery side)
2. Push the throttle wide open to let fresh air in
3. Crank the engine for about 10 seconds
4. Crank the engine again for another 10 seconds
5. Put the EGI fuse back in
6. Try and re-start

If this doesn\'t work do the process again, I managed to unflood mine with the plugs in, might be an idea to take the plugs out to check that they are ok and no fouled or too wet.

BenLewisMav

Change the plugs then see where you stand! You wouldn\'t believe the hours of unnecessary diag work dodgy/old plugs have caused..
Failing that make sure you have the HT leads on the right way round.
If you look at the coil packs the L1 and L2 refer to Leading or \'lower\' plugs, with the number referring to rotor 1 or 2, rotor 1 being the one closest to the front, and T1 and T2 referring to trailing or \'top\' plugs.
Then check the leads and wiring to the coil.
If thats all in order you may have to \'restab\' the crank angle sensor, so that the timing is reset to default, see the factory service manual for that.
Good luck!

pdtaylor18

Whats the history on the engine? whats been done to it recently?
Ben is spot on with the plugs as I have changed even new plugs before and this has cured many a problem. With the engine just dying once its fired then I would guess on fuel or AFM related fault. Try exercising the AFM by hand or better still check all the resistance values if you have a multimeter. Just because you have fuel it does not mean its not pumping at the right pressure for the injectors, so even though you have checked the pump do not count it out entirely at this point.
Apart from that then it might be the ECU.
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Carolgees

Cheers guys, all comments gratefully noted.

I\'m not 100% sure of the history but it seems to have sat for a few years. I\'ve checked the plug leads are on correctly, but I haven\'t checked the plugs \'cos it was squeezed up against the corner of the garage and to be honest I simply didn\'t have the time to check.

I\'ll put new plugs in, tighten everything up and try again.