7 hours oil-change!!!

[A R]

Well waht looked to be easy enough, was...until I found that the oil cooler was no longer being held by the rubber/metal hangers.
 
I had to remove theundertray and that took patience and lost of penetrating oil.
 
Then I had to find a way to secure the oil cooler while the nes were being removed. These were on quite tight, and only the hose came off as I suded the method in the manual. The threaded bushins? look OK, and there were no visible cracks on the cooler itself. I emptied most of the oil and let the rest dripped out while I fabricated some brackets.
 
The oil filter was almost glue to the engine and it looked to be an offbrand. Also it is of the older longer type. i did ask for one at Mazda and they told me they are no longer available? The oil pan drain plug\'s washer must have been reused a few times. Why do people do it when it costs pennies???
 
I manage to get the coller back on with my home made brackets. I did not have any material to make a rubber isloator for the mounts, but I thing they will be OK for now. New sump washer and oil filter installed. Undertray cleaned of dirty oil and nuts and bolt duly lubricated. All back in place and is not time for the oil.
 
I added 4L of GTW 10W-40 and it reads full. I assume that once the engine gets going it will need some more. Here is teh dilemma. Should I start it with 4L in there, or should I add???
 
Any help appreciated and if you read all this, thanks. :cheers
 
Now I am off to shower and bed as I stink of oil, mineral spirits and car gunk!

[shaunwil]

Welcome to the wonderful world of FB\'s

If you have drained the oil cooler then its best to top the system up and then warm it up until you can feel the cooler warming up. Then recheck the levels of the oil and top up. You should be fine to run it from there. Keep checking the oil levels every time you fill up with petrol because it does burn oil in the chambers.

Shaun

[David Nock (RIP)]

Yep, as Shaun. After a change just start up on for a minute or two and then switch off. The filter will take a bit of oil into itself on startup. Allow to settle for a while, then top up to max on the stick. that should be it.
For info, my Oil Filter for series 3 is B6Y114302 9A, the sump washer is 995641400 and the fuel filter is E 508 13 470.
As previous, you would need to check that S3 and S2 oil filters are the same.
The fuel filter looks easy but is a pig to do if (like me) you can\'t be bothered to open the pit for a small job! Petrol runs all over everywhere because you can\'t get your arm properly under the car. Well worth doing the fuel filter though as it may not have been changed for yonks. Symptoms of chocked filter are what you would expect; engine dies on hard running in 5th gear, then recovers on the hard shoulder and carries on if you drive slowly home.

[stu aull]

Mazda still sells the radiator hangers across the Pond here - not too much $$maybe $50US?
All (!) rotary mazdas (dunno about RX8) use the same short-style filter. Long one isn\'t available.  It only needs to be snugged up then 1/4 to a 1/3rd of a turn tighter - should be easy to remove then.
Fuel filter: you can buy hose clamps (some look like big plastic scissors) that pinch off the lines, making the change a leak-free event. Should be changed every spring - can create all sorts of odd behaviour if unchanged...
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

[David Nock (RIP)]

Greetings Stu, welcome.
My problem with the fuel filter is pure lazyness. Everytime I think it\'s such an easy job and so go at it unprepared. Each time I get soaked in petrol I say \'next time over the pit, with clamps\' but I Never Bother. Yet everything else I\'m careful about.

[A R]

Welcome Stu thanks for the tips. I have plastic clamps and will use those from now on.