First turbo only works if second has come on boost that gear?

Started by GhostWKD, January 04, 2009, 02:04:00 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

cush

it will be that the actuator charge control is not shuttiong so all your boost is going through the relief valve i am fixing mine today

Shark

For the record, this was not happening at the time of sale, when I took Alex out in the car prior to sale and I have never had a single day of trouble with the car.  I don\'t want anyone thinking I sold a broken car.

To try and be helpful:
From experience of resolving boost problems with the FD I had before this one, the best way to resolve is to understand what should be happening at each stage...

I believe the most likely culprits from what you have described are either:
[LIST=1]
  • Turbo Control Valve / Turbo Control Actuator
  • Charge Control Valve
If this Turbo Control Valve is open then exhaust gas is being split between both turbos all the time - explaining low pressure below 4500 revs because the pressure is reduced and the secondary turbo is not a closed system - venting it\'s boost pressure and so I suspect spinning pretty freely.

The Charge Control Valve isolates the secondary turbo until ready to supply boost so if open then all boost will be venting until after 4500rpm.

If memory serves you can get to the actuator from under the driver\'s side behind the front wheel worth checking the control arms which I know have popped off on other FD\'s.  Naturally as these are attached to the turbos expect them to be warm for some time after the engine is switched off.

All this is based on looking at Vacuum diagrams and understanding how the system works.  Information for review can be found here if you look about halfway or so down the page - clickety click

If others can contradict or correct me on these points then please feel free, but this is where I would focus my attention rather than taking the plenum off and risking damaging solenoids that are probably fine or you wouldn\'t have correct boost on the secondary turbo.

Hope this helps you out.
Gregor
\'94 Hiace "Super Custom" | \'96 RX-7
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

RX7 sold :(

GhostWKD

Hi guys thanks for the replies :)
 
The car went to see Carl and the guys at Hayward Rotary yesterday, repairs/investigation were both a bit more extensive than i would of liked but cant fault the guys dedication to getting the car to a point where it was driveable for the time being - top guys i must say.
 
Anyway onto the cause of my issues.
 
First turbo wasnt boosting due to a faulty solenoid, once this was replaced I took it out for a test drive and first turbo boosted brilliantly however had at this point lost the second turbo with the boost just trailing off.
 
Left the car in the guys capable hands while i returned to work at this point and once had been dropped off again afterwards the problem with second turbo had been traced down to the Apexi PFC not controlling boost properly, so a standard ecu was fitted for the time being and it runs brilliantly.
 
Was intending to get a new PFC straight away however due to finances think this may be delayed a bit unfortunately.
 
But in the Interim the car runs brilliantly, it does very very occasionaly have a millisecond of stutter going high up the revs which is a breakdown on the ignition amp so will be taking the guys advice on fitting a small power boost type wire to there to help this out :D
 
Huge thanks to Hayward Rotary with this and also to all of the help offered in the thread :)

DMDRIFTING

Quote from: Bobbit;573064^^ Knackered solenoid bud, mind did exactly the same thing yours is doing, you need to replace the 2nd solenoid back (from the front of the car) with one that can hold the boost you\'re running.

Hey Bobbit,



Where is the boost solenoid located? Is it one of the two green ones that bolt onto the intake plenum above?

Anyone have a photo, as i can\'t confirm which is the correct one to replace from the workshop vacuum diagrams?

Bobbit

Hi Bud, the solenoid in question is under the UIM i\'m afraid, so you\'ll have to remove it. Took me about 2 hrs the 1st time i removed it, but be very careful when you do remove it that you have disconnected all pipes etc, otherwise you\'ll snap the double solenoids (the one in your pic) like I did.
:Laugh LOL


                                       

DMDRIFTING



Would like some advice on correct solenoid!

It states that solenoid (E) is Turbo Control Solenoid
But in the picture above ^^ it marks \'Solenoid Valve\' (Turbo Control)  to the solenoid with the purple vacuum line?

Which one is the correct one to replace?

And, are all these solenoids the same unit, or will Solenoid (E) not work in solenoid (F)\'s place?


HELLLLLLLLLP me :confused: :2Confused

Bobbit

The solenoids are interchangeable in as much as if one breaks then a spare is exactly the same as any other solenoid. Best thing to do is what I did and test all the solenoids to check if one is not working, I did a write up on how to check here bud: clicky
:Laugh LOL


                                       

DMDRIFTING

I did not think it would be that easy ARGHHHHHHH, do they sit in a row under the UIM? Any answers to the post above^^?

Love the video signature hahhahahaha

DMDRIFTING

Thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you :god

Bobbit

No probs bud, the solenoids sit in a row when you get the UIM off, mine was the 2nd back frm the front, so i\'d suggest trying that one first. Good luck bud!
:Laugh LOL


                                       

DMDRIFTING

Quote from: Bobbit;578707The solenoids are interchangeable in as much as if one breaks then a spare is exactly the same as any other solenoid. Best thing to do is what I did and test all the solenoids to check if one is not working, I did a write up on how to check here bud: clicky

http://robrobinette.com/images/hoses.gif

So the one i need to replace is the second one back: Solenoid (F) - Charge Control? As seen in the link above!

And not Solenoid (E)

I don\'t have the tools to test the solenoids at the moment, will change and confirm the outcome

Bobbit

I think it is E bud, think the above pic is for an automatic and they have more solenoids but i\'m not 100% sure TBH. I basically bought a whole replacement set and between the one\'s I had and replacements I\'d bought, i had a whole set that works and a few spares. All pressure tested to 15psi so if anything goes again I have a few spares to replace it with.
But if you can, get a mityvac and pressure gauge, 12V bettery (I used one from my petrol heli, was about £20) and you\'re set, in total should cost about £50-70. In comparison to taking it to a specialist to diagnose it\'s very cheap to do.
:Laugh LOL


                                       

cush

i have changed this one 3 times and mine still isnt working can someone tell me which coloured plug goes to which solenoid valve please

DMDRIFTING

Right finally got round to changing the solenoid i had been sent, it was not the same as the one you have advised to change Bobbit but i thought as the UIM is off i might as well replace!

Found a cracked vacuum plug and replaced also

The solenoid i changed is the \'Solenoid Valve - Turbo Control\' situated at the top left of this picture!



I have put it all back together, now the second turbo will not come on at all????

It sounds like its boosting crazy (Cars is running 2 BOV\'s one for charge and one for BOV) and it always dumps to atmosphere while under load or whilst out of gear and just revving?

Any ideas?

Should i change the solenoids back over as the new one maybe faulty?

DMDRIFTING

Quote from: GhostWKD;573121Also forgot to mention but when so revving to 3.5-4k or so and letting off get a woosh of air kind of noise, sounds kind of like an owl? assume this is the air that should\'ve been going in my engine :(
 
Cheers,
Alex

Have exactly the same noise (Owl) now that I have replaced the \'solenoid valve - turbo control\' when I rev engine at stand still or while on load driving???