Over 380bhp FC Club

[L18M]

Figured that as the fd\'s have the over 500 club (maybe its not jus for fd\'s) then the fc\'s should have a similar thing.

not sure what the magic number should be (but im sure it can be edited) but guess 380 as:

1) assuming over 500 club is for fd, stock fd = 280bhp ish, 500bhp is just under double the bhp so going by that, stock fc = 200 bhp ish (220 for infini) then just under double that is 380 ish

2) i\'ve (personally) not heard of that many big power fc\'s in uk. prof is close ish with 315bhp and has got more to come.. pete will be close to that.. m1tch will be way over.. etc etc

3) is more fun to have a reachable target than silly figure which not many ppl want as a daily drive / weekend toy

i\'m sure you get the jist of things.

be good to get power figures and list of mods

[L18M]

think i\'d .... myself laughing if i dunt get at least this with my shiney bits lol

oh be nice if a mod can make this a sticky

[FlikstRR]

can someone with knowledge then list a \'shopping list\' of sorts top what we would need for that power..

for example my current engine/power mods =

- walbro fuel pump
- Koyo radiator
- Large front mount intercooler (3" pipework, 600x300x100 core)
- Colder sparks


I have a turbo to go on, but I know i need some kind of ECu (PowerFC or emanage i guess?) and injectors.. but again I dont know what Size.. I\'m aiming for as much \'safe\' power as i can get without any kind of porting..

I would assume 380 for your \'club\' is only possible with a port.

[L18M]

can be done on stock ports.
im not 100% sure but at least:
T04E tub (stock tub wont cut it)
BOV helps
min 1000cc injectors
apexi PFC / hks e-manager / motec or was it micro tech (or they same?) or similar
boost controller
free flow exhaust pref 3"
FPR
WI for safety if you want to turn the boost up HIGH
thicker leads for spark plugs

thats all i can think of atm.. im sure others will correct me if i have anything wrong

how u get colder sparks?

[FlikstRR]

- My turbo is a to4 hybrid apparently although i cant prove it/not checked.
- I forgot to mention I do have a 3" zaust, although I believe its down to 2.5 after the twin split.

just go down a grade on the ngk\'s i guess.. i dunno I left RX Motors to that. :p  I\'m educated in SR20\'s from 200sx\'s.. rotaries new to me! I ran NGK 7\'s in the SR.

WI?? dont get that one sry.. probably obvious but im tired!

[L18M]

water / methanol injection

as ur fc is at tims you might as well ask him on his thoughts as he knows his stuff

[Prof]

The main thing you need for power is Air and Fuel - get plenty of these into the car and you will make Power !
 
The stock induction is restrictive - to make more power you will need to look at filter (just putting a cone on won\'t necessarily do much for you - the piping and location of the cold air feed are all important.  Stock Turbo will not be able to take you up to much higher power levels - 300 is about the limit - See Furb\'s build - he got probably the max you can out of the stocker.  So a bigger turbo is a given.  Exhaust needs sorting - the stock one is restrictive - you want a free fowing exhaust with a turbo to get the most work out of it.
 
Higher boost pressures will result - so the air is going to be hotter - this will need additional cooling - an uprated intercooler (stock mount, vmount or front mount) and possibly water injection or other induction cooling maybe required.
 
Engine porting - you might want to consider this - you can push more air into the engine on stock ports by raising the boost pressure.  You can also let the engine have a wider mouth so to speak and let it gulp more air in as well - Porting certainly helps with power - but the more extreme it is, the more you push the powerband up the rev range.
 
Fuelling - stock injectors on a TII will take you to about 320 BHP - I know because I got my car there and still had A/F ratio of 12:1, but they won\'t get you much further.  For safety, at the higher boost levels you want to get your AFR to around 11 ideally - so bigger injectors should be considered.  You can either upgrage the existing ones, or add additional - but the moment you change these, you need additional control in the form of piggy back or a standalone ECU.  For controllable idle and low throttle control you may want to keep the primaries stock or at least only up them to 800/850\'s.  You can also deploy a Fuel Pressure Regulator - and aftermarket one with rising rate will help to get fuel in under boost.  Then of course the fuel pump - the stock one isn\'t going to do much beyond the low 300\'s - it really needs replacing.  Should also look at the wiring to the fuel pump - the stock wiring is tired and the wire gauge is small so there is considerable voltage drop.  Be careful when measuring voltage at the fuel pump - the system has a resistor in the circuit which will be active when the car is warm and on low load / idle - jumper the yellow connector near the shock tower and measure the voltage - as that\'s the full pump voltage (don\'t do that with the engine running :rolleyes:)
 
With more power comes more heat - so you need to uprate the cooling system to cope with this.
 
You will need to upgrade the radiator.  The oil cooler is quite capable of supporting high power levels - but it should be checked over for leaks.  There are some mods that can be done to the oil system that help with higher power - thermo pellet in the eccentric shaft - there is a shim that can be placed in it to keep oil flowing at all times - not just when warm.  You can also get a device from Racing Beat to increase the oil pressure.  Make sure you\'re oil lines are good for it !
 
With more power comes more speed and also more torque.  So you need to upgrade Brakes (at leat service the stock ones and go for better discs / pads) and suspension - it\'s a good idea to do the bushings while you\'re at it and stiffen the car with braces too.

As it says - these mods are well worth doing anyway - and should really be done before any major engine tweaks !!

[BlitzBoy]

The most Powerful FC in the UK is Jon Goodwin he attanined over 440hp (so 500bhp) at the hubs on Pips dyno but that was on a RE engine streetport with T78 turbo

[m1tch]

For this 380bhp club, is it only for twin rotors?

[mukumu kurubushi]

Fuelling - stock injectors on a TII will take you to about 320 BHP

Ah, didn\'t know this. I always got the impression 250 was the time to upgrade the fueling.

Whats the thinking behind getting bigger injectors? Upgrage the secondaries first, then primaries? And how do you know what capacities to get?

A bit new to all this tbh & its difficult to know how much of these things to do all in one go. Don\'t fancy shelling out £300 every time in remap costs everytime i add another engine mod!

[Prof]

Ah, didn\'t know this. I always got the impression 250 was the time to upgrade the fueling.
 
Whats the thinking behind getting bigger injectors? Upgrage the secondaries first, then primaries? And how do you know what capacities to get?
 
A bit new to all this tbh & its difficult to know how much of these things to do all in one go. Don\'t fancy shelling out £300 every time in remap costs everytime i add another engine mod!

Part of the reason I was able to push the stock injectors so high was because I\'d already swapped out my fuel pump, and the fuel pressure was a little higher than stock.  Higher fuel pressure means the injectors \'appear\' to be slightly larger.
 
There are some good fuel calculators on the web that will give you an idea what size and how many injectors to use.
 
http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/2ndgencalc.cgi
 
If you change the primaries then the car will not run properly without a piggy back or standalone - if you change the secondaries you don\'t hit that problem until you are in boost or above 3800 rpm - as these injectors don\'t come online till then.  Because the maps in the stock ECU can\'t be altered - any changes in fuelling will throw the maps out.  Keeping the primaries stock at 550 means that mapping for idle and low load is easier.  As you increase the injector size, you have to reduce the pulse width to it to maintain the same fuel flow, and vey low pulse widths are not very reliable.  In any case, the primary injectors get their air feed from a single port in the throttle body - so making them huge has no advantage as they won\'t get the air they need in any case.
 
You only need to change the injectors once, so make all the supporting changes at the same time (fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, ecu) then get them mapped for that setup.  Mapping changes need only be done for anything that subsequently changes the airflow or air density (such as Water Injection, change in intercooler, change in air intake, change in exhaust - affects air flow because turbo may spool more easily).

[L18M]

The most Powerful FC in the UK is Jon Goodwin he attanined over 440hp (so 500bhp) at the hubs on Pips dyno but that was on a RE engine streetport with T78 turbo

that the black one with white roof? v-mount?
was 88 GTR or sth like that?

[L18M]

For this 380bhp club, is it only for twin rotors?

who\'s got a trip rotor fc in uk?
lets say any fc.. be nice to see a quad rotor fc :evillaugh

[BlitzBoy]

that the black one with white roof? v-mount?
was 88 GTR or sth like that?

yep thats the one dude, he done a 11.3 on the quarter mile, rapid little thing with an rx8 box

[L18M]

thats my target then, 11.3 lol
does a rx8 box fit easy into fc? any ideas? be fun to have 6 forward gears to play with