Started To Change The Discs

t2rew · March 11, 2009, 08:05:21 PM

i have a spare front hub in very good condition if you want to just undo the big nut in the middle. it could save you alot of time.

t2rew · March 11, 2009, 08:31:40 PM

haha just read the thread, you did the other front already DOH

Prof · March 11, 2009, 08:41:19 PM

If you can get around the back, you might be able to get a reverse threaded bolt into one of the 5 holes that isn\'t lined up with the 2 on the disc, and wind it in to help lift the disc away at the edge

I must admit, mine came off relatively easily with a big wallop from a 2lb rubber mallet

grinder · March 11, 2009, 11:17:56 PM

yeah front are done - seemed dead easy to be honest ( they might have been off before though )

the back look like the original factory fitted items - so well rusted on

Prof - i did try putting a bolt in the little hole in the rear disc - i assume thats for assisting "popping" them off - but that had no effect

next plan might be to try and get 2 bolts thru where the caliper was and try and force it off that way ( if i have anything long enough that will fit )

but i have 2 more days leave to get it sorted out - so another 6hrs tomorrow should see it done

everything is going back on laced with copper grease - i dont want this hassle again ( not that i want to remove the discs again!! LOL )

Stu

grinder · March 12, 2009, 11:30:07 PM

woohoooo its done

crickey - what a pain in the rear ( excuse the pun ) - i reckon it took me about 2 hrs today just to get a disc off

even with "gentle" tapping around the bell - but then all of a sudden 2 hits with the mallet and it came off .. go figure eh ??

anyways - i took some pics as i went along ....

so here is the first pic ( i think ) .. wheel off and the heads of the 2 silly screws drilled out as i couldnt loosen them

grinder · March 12, 2009, 11:35:56 PM

next thing is to get the pads out

there is a 12mm bolt at the bottom - you remove this and you can move the caliper out the way to get to the pads

grinder · March 12, 2009, 11:37:35 PM

ok - bolt is out - next wedge the caliper up ( i used a spanner for this )

and you can see the pads

grinder · March 12, 2009, 11:43:30 PM

what i then did was to slide the top of the caliper off the pin and tie it up out the way

grinder · March 12, 2009, 11:44:52 PM

from this point - you can remove the pads - make a note of how the spring clips fit

grinder · March 12, 2009, 11:46:42 PM

now that the clips and pads are out - time to remove the rest of the caliper - its held with 2 * 14mm bolts - one at the top and one at the bottom

grinder · March 12, 2009, 11:47:47 PM

and now the fun bit - spend 4 hrs trying to get the disc off

but once its off it looks like this

grinder · March 12, 2009, 11:49:01 PM

give everything a clean - and stick the new disc on

the bolts i bought wouldnt fit - they sat at .5mm proud and didnt want the wheel not to sit flat so didnt use them

grinder · March 12, 2009, 11:50:51 PM

lowered the car off the jack and tightened the wheel bolts and took it for a spin

and to be honest - no idea why - but the brakes are naff - you have to press it about 3 times to get it solid

so i assume that the pads and discs are just bedding themselves in at this point

when i got back - i looked at the discs and its nice and shiney in the middle but not the edges - i only did about 4 miles top - so i reckon they just need a lot more use ??

and thats how you change the front and rear discs

and i was feeling in such a good mood that i even changed the oil and filter

Prof · March 13, 2009, 12:00:01 AM

Probably a good idea to bleed the fluid - even though you didn\'t take the calipers off - as the fluid will be old and stale judging by the rust on those discs of yours.

The fluid is hygroscopic meaning it absorbs water, and will get \'spongey\' as it absorbs more moisture over time. Open one bleed screw at a time - start with furthest away from the master cylinder (opposite sides for ABS fitted cars), so on your cab that\'s the passenger rear - and bleed out the brake fluid until it changes colour - keep topping up the resevoir as you go. The first one will take the longest as you empty the resevoir completely, each brake you bleed after that will take less time. You\'ll be amazed at the difference !! :driving

grinder · March 13, 2009, 12:04:06 AM

humm not a bad idea to be honest - and the reason the discs were sooo bad is that it hasnt been used in about ... at least 4-5 months

i take it that its a 2 man job aswell ( for brake pressing )

do you have to bleed ALL the fluid out or is it ok to mix ?