Help ! Fueling problem on uprated injectors!

HaywardRotary · February 20, 2009, 11:04:31 PM

Shaun,
You have made it really complicated.
Do as Tony said,put the fuel feed from the tank to the primary rail,then to the secondary rail and from that to the regulator with the other one blocked,then the bottom of regulator to the return line.
Injector settings should be 64.7% for primaries,and leave secondaires at 100%
Set fuel pressure to around 30 psi,then also take some fuel on the commander out of the cells in the idle zone.
After this get the car mapped proffessionaly.
BTW it is just my opinion,but I think think your regulator should be moved to just above where the fuel line return pipe is near/below the inlet elbow on the throttle,there is far too much going on too near the hot side of the engine with all of those connections and you don\'t want a fuel leak over there.
Regards
Carl

hairyhoover · February 20, 2009, 11:14:33 PM

i was going to say if you have changed your primarys to 850\'s it sounds like it just needs mapping,

nikp · February 21, 2009, 04:07:59 AM

The Apexi does a good job of recalculating the fuel cells when you adjust the size of injectors (when properly setup), so it shouldn\'t need too much fettling with for the idle zone.

shaunwil · February 21, 2009, 02:32:39 PM

Cheers guys, wouldn\'t it be as complicated regardless if its going into the primary or secondary first when in series?? I can swap it around easily.

I\'d copied the CJR fuel system setup for placement of the FPR. It isn\'t too much of a hassle to move that too.

Got it running with the apexi set at 65%. Will set the secondaries back to 100%. Fixed the leak on the fpr.

Just a cobble together at the minute, car needs to be mot\'d before the end of the month. Got a heavier spring for the wastegate and water injection to go on before it gets tuned. Car won\'t get used after until its tuned properly !

Cheers

Shaun

shaunwil · February 21, 2009, 03:41:30 PM

Right quicky update. Raised atmosphere pressure to 30psi on the FPR. Gave it a quick run round the block and I\'m seeing 13.5-14 on light throttle and 11 on idle.

I can\'t see any other leaks and it should be good for the mot !

Cheers

Shaun

nikp · February 21, 2009, 04:42:19 PM

13.5-14.....injector duty? Or AFRs?

shaunwil · February 21, 2009, 04:48:37 PM

AFR on wideband

Shaun

nikp · February 22, 2009, 08:09:15 PM

Should be leaner on idle. I have 13.0 on idle (Once warmed up). I reckon it could go a little leaner too. But 13.0 seems good. 11.0 is a little too rich (Which confirms the idle duty time you are seeing)

shaunwil · February 22, 2009, 10:22:46 PM

I\'ve added another psi to the FPR just to make sure it stays rich off idle. Should be ok to get it to the garage and back and the run to pips. Just not the best time for the tax and mot to be due !!

Shaun

Prof · February 23, 2009, 01:07:06 AM

Quote from: nikp;586538Should be leaner on idle. I have 13.0 on idle (Once warmed up). I reckon it could go a little leaner too. But 13.0 seems good. 11.0 is a little too rich (Which confirms the idle duty time you are seeing)

knock too much fuel out and the engine will struggle to have stable idle, but agree with you once warm they can go leaner. If you\'ve got a warm start map or something on the Apexi - to add fuel in when the water temps are cold - that should cover it.

shaunwil · February 23, 2009, 08:13:24 AM

I\'m more worried about the bit up to 3k. It should be safe to get me to the garage and to pips.

Should be getting mapped soon, as long as I get the other stuff on the car fitted. It won\'t move after today until it gets remapped !

Shaun

hairyhoover · February 23, 2009, 09:23:22 AM

shaun, you can use the water temp correction to adjust the fueling for each water temp bracket.

nikp · February 23, 2009, 01:34:56 PM

Quote from: Prof;586606knock too much fuel out and the engine will struggle to have stable idle, but agree with you once warm they can go leaner. If you\'ve got a warm start map or something on the Apexi - to add fuel in when the water temps are cold - that should cover it.

Yes, you can correct for a cold engine. Plus the cold start valve thingy keeps the revs higher while it\'s cold, so you should be fine.

For some reason, when the engine went back in on mine last year, the cold start didn\'t work, so i have to keep the engine going myself until it\'s warmed up to about 30 degrees or so - otherwise it struggles to idle.

shaunwil · February 23, 2009, 05:19:41 PM

Well got back from the garage. Just tootled there and back and every things fine.

Got to fix the FB though !!!!

Shaun

C J R · February 23, 2009, 07:58:47 PM

Hi Shaun,
Does that mean the FD passed its MOT ?

Chris