Even more questions...

Started by B.Martin, November 08, 2008, 07:57:54 PM

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B.Martin

Okay its me again with a few more (stupid) questions.
 
1. Any reason the hand brake light stays on or randomly turns on/off
2. Where exactly do i input the transmision fluid ? (dont have a handbook)
3. Any reason the passenger side window is temperamental sometimes it works sometimes it dont?
4. Where can i get a coolant temperature sensor ?

sadgoth

1) Check your brake fluid level you may find it is a little low
2) there are 2 (if I remember correctly) nuts/plugs on the gearbox one at the bottom which is your drain and one on the top the filler , there may be a smaller one mid level which is for checking the oil level.
3) windows on the FC are just tempremental - prob a worm window motor or dodgy solder
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
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dthebuk

http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/
 
for the window it could be a dodgy contact in the switch. just whack out the switch, should be able to do this without taking apart the door. then clean the contact s with emery paper.


\'91 FC TII - Drifter... Under construction :D
:burnout

Jimi_Hendrix

Can i add a posibly stupid question?....
 
 
Why does the fan come on for a short while when i start the car from cold?
 
I have an FC as well. TII.

pdtaylor18

#4
take you have a standard fan? they all seem to do this when 1st started and soon idle down to almost nothing.  The viscous side of things can only be the answer as thats the only thing that can engage it. Once I have found a link to find out whether the viscous side is a fluid reaction to temp or some sort of bi-metallic I will let you know.

Hand brake light is also the fluid level, check contents and plug is connected properly ie dry and not contaminated with water or even brake fluid!!
Transmission oil has several places and both have an external type allen key bolt, the lower one is the contents indicator once it starts coming out then stop. You can also put a bit of oil in the gear stick housing once the gearstick has been taken off but no need if you have not drained it. As Sadgoth has stated about the windows they are quite often tempermental and cleaning the switch and making sure the door mechanisms are lubricated with some sort of grease will often to the trick.  It is and has been on most of the cars i have worked on to be the window motor.
1990 TII Cab JDM- Lambo Orange- HKS GT3037 turbo,Apexi PFC and datalogit,Greddy FMIC,Trust coilovers,18" Antera 10J 265 rears, 18" 8.5J 235 fronts

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Pete[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Jimi_Hendrix

Cheers "pdtaylor18". It dosn\'t really bother me. Just thought it was strange that the fan would come on when the engine bay is freezing.:xconfused
 
And your right it does idle down or cut out after 30 seconds or a minute or so.:)

dthebuk

Quote from: pdtaylor18;552481Hand brake light is also the fluid level

and i thought they were all cable actuated.....awesome


\'91 FC TII - Drifter... Under construction :D
:burnout

Prof

Quote from: dthebuk;552536and i thought they were all cable actuated.....awesome
It is cable actuated - but the brake warning light is also used for 2 other functons:
 
Low fluid in the reservoir
and - usually not fitted - also used for brake pad worn low indicator
 
Also - for the Window switch - I\'ve found that if the switch on the passenger door is used it sometimes can \'stick\' up or down and then you can\'t move it from the drivers side switch until you give it a little tap on the passenger switch.  You can also get some odd behavior if the child lock switch isn\'t quite on or off - kind of intermittent operation on the passenger window again.
 
For the transmission fluid - there are 2 drain holes on the bottom - one in the centre of the gearbox (the main drain plug) and one closer to the drive shaft (for draining out the last bit near the output shaft).
 
There are 2 plugs on the side of the gearbox - passenger side - the top one is for filling, and the bottom one is the inspection hole - you fill in the top hole until it just starts to seep out the lower one.  You can also top up oil in the selector area - remove the gearknob, protective shroud thingy and the rubber rings, then 3 bolts and your in.
 
Coolant temp sensors - if it\'s for an aftermarket gauge - you can get an inline one for the radiator hose - 38mm is the size you need.  Can go in top or bottom rad pipe, but better in the top one as that\'s the engine water temp give or take a degree or two.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


grinder

i found my handbrake light was iffy - the switch is on the left hand side of the handbrake - all i did was spray it with WD40 and operated it a few times - and it worked like a charm from then on :D

and like prof said - i put the temp gauge in the top hose so that i could see when the thermostat opened - and believe me - its a long time after the car gets up to temp !

if you are going for gauges - i would get the oil temp/pressure ones - i prefer to drive it hard when the oil is warm - not just the water


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B.Martin

well actually its not for aftermarket its because my car dont start properly after driving, it floods, but i\'m led to belive thats becasue the engine thinks its cold/warm when its not. Been told to replace that sensor...

Prof

ok - that water temp sensor is on the back of the water pump - kind of behind the alternator. Sensor screws into the metalwork - mine has a green rectangular plug on it. Might be worth just unplugging it and plugging it back in - as it could be just a bad connection.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


pdtaylor18

car not starting after its hot could be something else entirely but I would rather not worry you with that topic until you have explored everything else.
1990 TII Cab JDM- Lambo Orange- HKS GT3037 turbo,Apexi PFC and datalogit,Greddy FMIC,Trust coilovers,18" Antera 10J 265 rears, 18" 8.5J 235 fronts

Paypal: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com
Email: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com

Pete[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

B.Martin

It always starts, unless i flood the engine. Or if the engine has cooled down a bit, but is not like cold start temperature (if you know what i mean) e.g. i get up in the morning, starts first time, finish work, starts first time, but if i go into my mates for an hour or 2 sometimes i can have trouble starting it. But yeah dont worry me just yet i\'ll try and see if this sorts it out first. Where would be the best place to get one of these sensors? any good motor factor ? and what technical name should i be using when asking for it to get the right product ?
 
Thanks for all your help guys.

Prof

That sounds like your PCV solenoid is not working - it\'s the orange one - could have a blocked filter or not getting a proper vacuum feed.  It\'s supposed to help stop the fuel percolating when you do a warm start and it up\'s the fuel pressure for about 1 minute when starting.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex