How to: Chainge your clutch!!

[batman]

top diy mate very well done

[Draco]

great post. very helpful indeed

[gandyRX]

well done matey certinally helps me out

[shaunwil]

Good write up. When I did mine it was a mare due to all the extra braces I have fitted. The Hardest bit I found was making sure that the slave cylinder pickup was correctly clipped into position.

Plus the pull clutch refused to release and i had to remove the pressure plate off with the gearbox in place.

Took me quite a while but I ended up having fun mating the box up.

Shaun

[dthebuk]

Just looked in my haynes manual (should be putting the clutch in this weekend...yes its only just come). And it basically says to fully tighten the clutch before you put the transmission back on. Just wondering what your views are on this as you\'ve obviously done it differently. The only problem i could see with tightening the bolts through the inspection cover is that i might be hard to stop the flywheel from moving.

Any info on this would be great

[nuki]

use the clutch allignment tool then tighten the bolts on the preassure plate to the flywheel then when you attach the gearbox just doubble check the bolts are tight through the inspection plate on the underside of the gearbox..Be sure you put the clutch plate the right way round beween the preassure plate and the flywheel. Using a big screwdriver you can lock the flywheel cogs against the gearbox housing quite easy with a screw driver. cluch all in all is not a difficult job on the Fds compared to some vehicles. I used 4 axle stands and the floor and could have the job done in a morning start to finish if i had to do another. As my fd did not have one rusty bolt which i was really supprised at it made the job simple.The biggest part of the job was getting the car on 4 axle stands just be sure you have clicked your release bearing out of the preassure plate through the inspection plate to remove the gearbox and click it back on when you have re-attached the gearbox and also make sure you have correct adjustment on your clutch pedal master cylinder as advised by mazda. Also check your gearbox release fork for damage and make sure you have the slave cylinder plunger into the guidance hole on the clutch fork. you shouldnt have no problems. Also examine the Pilot roller Bearing in the middle of the flywheel which the gearbox main shaft tip sits in mite need to be replaced. I started the job with no manuals or guides and success about a month ago so i remember every bolt needed to be removed. 07960525204 give me a bell if you get stuck. i know what its like not having anybody to help when its a sunday afternoon

[Prof]

Just did the clutch on my FC this weekend gone.  It\'s more of a PITA because the exhaust system has to come off.
 
I would tigthen the clutch cover to the flywheel and properly torque them up to the specs in the manual before you refit the gearbox.  The alignment tool will correctly centre the clutch plate.
 
The issue we had was getting the box to go back onto the engine - we had one person levering the engine backward whilst two of us guided the box onto the engine with some wiggling.  But it will only go so far, then you run into the problem that your pushing the pocket of trapped air where the pilot bearing is.  At this point the box was withing 1/2 " of the engine.  We used the two longest bolts and some sockets as spacers to \'wind\' the box onto the engine - worked a treat, then when you get it near, get the rest of the bolts in and replace the longer ones for the correct bolts, tightening up the bolts evenly so the box goes on straight.  The slower movement coupled with the locking action of the bolts allows the trapped air to exit whilst gradually creeping the box onto the engine.  I see no reason why it wouldn\'t work with the FD box either.

[dthebuk]

cheers for the input guys. I actually had the car back together and finished last weekend

And i agree, the hardest part was the exhuast, the bolts have rusted the two bits of mine together so i couldn\'t get it apart.

We had three of us fitting the box, Then engine was pushed back into the bulkhead (still on the mounts) by wood so that it wouldnt fall towards the front of the car. Then we had one of us holding the bell housing, one holding the other side of the tranmission, then the last person bolted the crossmember on once the box was aligned with the engine.

Though i think we might have a slight problem. When the clutch pedal is depressed all the way down and the car is put into any gear (with the pedal still down) The revs drop so the car is almost stalling. Though if the lights are on this doesn\'t happen. My guess is that the clutch just needs a bit of wearing in? The car drives fine. Though its not taxed or mot\'d so i cant really take it further than the drive.

once again, appreciate the help

[leefitz]

Very impressive writeup for sure. i have my new clutch waitning for me when i get home, along with solid engine mounts, solid diff mounts, diff and gearbox brace. so alls going in at the same time and i cant wait.
things i take it i do need is, new pilot bearing, new release bearing and a clutch lineup tool. i want to get these ordered asap cause im currently away from home and will only have a few days to sort everything so i want to be ready to go and not have to wait for parts to be delivered. but a quick question on the lineup tool, is it fd3 spacific?
 any other advice would be great please, cheers lads

[Jono FD3]

Pilot bairing is optional as it is a bugger to get out with out the correct tool!! but the rest would be worth replacing! Line up tool does help alot so would be worth getting your hands on one.... they tend to come with the kits aswell, so might already be there for you

Jono