N/A 3 rotors in FD\'s

Started by Chris Wilson, September 23, 2008, 09:10:43 PM

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Chris Wilson

How much info is around on putting a race spec N/A 3 rotor in an FD? I know I said I\'d never own another rotary, but madness is on the wind. I might swerve at another turbo two rotor, but an NA triple kind of appeals. Any hard core info on this around? Can you peripheral port a triple? Thanks.

Brett

Just do it.

http://www.youtube.com/v/IeViolISyGc&hl=en&fs=1">http://www.youtube.com/v/IeViolISyGc&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344">

http://www.youtube.com/v/bIGr0Oo8je8&hl=en&fs=1">http://www.youtube.com/v/bIGr0Oo8je8&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344">
Brap Brap Brap Brap

Brett

More:

http://www.youtube.com/v/xbKtHL06xmQ&hl=en&fs=1">http://www.youtube.com/v/xbKtHL06xmQ&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344">

http://www.youtube.com/v/_ieBKyaVHO0&hl=en&fs=1">http://www.youtube.com/v/_ieBKyaVHO0&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344">
Brap Brap Brap Brap

Brett

Carl Haywards tripple renisis

http://www.youtube.com/v/JZLFUCqdMZ4&hl=en&fs=1">http://www.youtube.com/v/JZLFUCqdMZ4&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344">
Brap Brap Brap Brap

Hayward North

Quote from: Brett;539684Carl Haywards tripple renisis

http://www.youtube.com/v/JZLFUCqdMZ4&hl=en&fs=1">http://www.youtube.com/v/JZLFUCqdMZ4&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344">

Iv been in this baby and its incredible :eek:
its so strong :D
Regards
Steve Garbutt
Hayward Rotary North

jm-garage.co.uk

We have an N/A 20B in our FD. Expensive and time consuming project for sure. lots of custom bits to build and to think about. Yes you can peripheral port the 20B as aove in the videos.

yogibear

Believe the one with the huge wing is up for sale in japland atm for something silly lyk 30K

Chris Wilson

Are there any commercially available dry sump kits for three rotor units? Any idea of weight, dressed with bare minimum of ancillaries for race usage? Any problems cooling the things (engine water coolant wise), given the constraints of space in the nose of an FD, for race usage. Thanks.

JBerg

dry sump, check out defined autoworks section on rx7club. :)

jm-garage.co.uk

#9
You would have no problem keeping them cool. That said with decent aftermarket alloy rads and sensable air ducking always helps. I would assume that if you considering Racing the car you will you an aftermarket front bumper for areodynamics which, in most cases, have much larger front ducts than the stock bumper.
 
As far a dry sump kits we don\'t do any. I have can how ever direct you to either Carl Hayward and Hayward rotories or Pip at WGT. They both have a long line of history with racing rotaries of all types. The dry sumps are an expensive route to go down but you will reap the benifits on the track.
 
There are a few of other unavoidable expenses with the 20B conversions.
-properly made and flowed N/A manifold (the real make or break of make decent power with an N/A)
 
-decent subframe to take the 20B. Whilst the mechanical bolt up of 20B to FD gear box is nice a simple the engine mounts are off and an after market subframe is needed. This also leads to bump steer which needs to be addressed.
 
-Keeping the thing Quiet enough to get onto the tracks without destroying the exhaust flow.
 
The Biggest key feature to think about before you start the project is the actual position you want the 20B to be mounted. There are kits that sit the 20b in the stock 13B position. The issue with this is the weight sits a little far forward effecting weight distribution. The alturnitive is to move the engine back obviously that become much more involved.
 
Its an involved project but if you have the time/ money to invest in such a fine creation then GO GO GO.
 
Cheers
James

HaywardRotary

Our 3 rotor in the above vids is not a Peripheral Port but side port and side exhaust port to keep the noise down,the engine is very road drivable and well within acceptable noise levels for the road.
A PP wouold be best for outright power,but as has been said getting the noise down reduces power considerably.
We have built a few 3 rotor short blocks,one or two 2 rotor 20bs and also 4 rotor engine.
You can allways give me a buzz Chris if you want to know more.

Regards
Carl
We warranty our rebuilt engines for Detonation, track day\'s and RWYB and NOW for 30 months which is two and half years or 30,000 miles
We also build all types of race or road engines.
We build race and track cars too.
Any kind of porting undertaken.
Single turbo conversions.
S

jantore

Quote from: Chris Wilson;539672How much info is around on putting a race spec N/A 3 rotor in an FD? I know I said I\'d never own another rotary, but madness is on the wind. I might swerve at another turbo two rotor, but an NA triple kind of appeals. Any hard core info on this around? Can you peripheral port a triple? Thanks.


Not that much hassle. Will work verry vell. I see ur located in shropshire, that\'s close to Middlewich where WGT is located is it not? If so id have a talk with pip. He know\'s abit about 20b pp engines, i would say he knows them inside and out :)

His last 20b pp race engine produced about 470rwhp. This engine was for a RX8 run by Mazda Belgium :)

And it has the mazda factory dry sump system. Pip will be able to sort u out on a complete drop in engine that will drop in a FD subframe with a dry sump system.

Pip is going to build a 26b pp for me within the next few months. The parts are in order now from NZ :)

JT

Archbish

Quote from: Chris Wilson;539672I know I said I\'d never own another rotary, but madness is on the wind.
I THOUGHT IT WAS YOU!!!! *grin*  Welcome back dude!!!  Voice of doom, meet everyone.  Everyone, meet V.O.D. *grin*  great to hear another blast from the past...  


for those that don\'t remember, back in the fledgling days of both FDUK and MRC (in fact FDUK were a yahoo group, not even a forum!!), Mr Wilson was and probably is one of the most knowledgeable guys about race car setup, dynamic theory, etc, etc.  




HOWEVER, he also had a habit of taking every problem and confirming in a doom laden voice that it was almost certainly and engine failure...  e.g.
Q: "My ashtray is full, and when I emptied it, I couldn\'t quite get the last bit of gum out.  Any suggestions?"
A: "Hmmm, could be water seal...."

Q: "My tracking is slightly out, and the tread has worn on the inside.  What should I do?"
A: "Rebuild the engine - it sounds like it could be a cracked tip, and you\'ll just cause more damage to the tyre by not changing it..."

Q: "My girlfriend makes funny grunting noises when she sleeps.  How should I deal with this?"
A: "Could be water seal, or tip.  is she ported?  is she running higher boost.  Rebuild the engine..."

Great to hear from you again!! :D
Everyone wants to be like ArchBish,
Cos the Bish is never glum.
Its hard to be unhappy
when the sun shines out your bum

clive

Quote from: Archbish;540493I THOUGHT IT WAS YOU!!!! *grin*  Welcome back dude!!!  Voice of doom, meet everyone.  Everyone, meet V.O.D. *grin*  great to hear another blast from the past...  


for those that don\'t remember, back in the fledgling days of both FDUK and MRC (in fact FDUK were a yahoo group, not even a forum!!), Mr Wilson was and probably is one of the most knowledgeable guys about race car setup, dynamic theory, etc, etc.  

:D


From memory Chris was actualy the first person that Glenn registered on this very forum,

Good to hear from you Chris.
All the best Clive

NurburgRob

Is there a limit to how many rotors you could line up?
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