Turbos

[Dr-Rotor]

:Snoring pussys

:Talking1hahahahaha

[Dr-Rotor]

 
nuff said

 
HAHAHAHAH, Hilariouse........do you blokes not have apex seals that dont brake in the UK?

[clive]

nuff said

Excellent but I can see this going on and on http://plugin.smileycentral.com/http%253A%252F%252Fwww.smileycentral.com%252F%253Fpartner%253DZSzeb008%255FZNxmk696YYGB%2526i%253D18%252F18%255F1%255F34%2526feat%253Dprof/page.html" target="_blank">http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/18/18_1_34.gif" alt="SmileyCentral.com" border="0">http://plugin.smileycentral.com/http%253A%252F%252Fimgfarm%252Ecom%252Fimages%252Fnocache%252Ftr%252Ffw%252Fsmiley%252Fsocial%252Egif%253Fi%253D18%252F18_1_34/image.gif">


Be interesting to see hear about a Rotary that lived with 7 or 8 Bar of boost :Giggle

[Dr-Rotor]

Im pretty sure there was and ausie drag rotor that used to boost around 40psi, around 2.75bar.
 
I doupt many engines would live after 7bar, 102psi...thats a little rediculouse fella. Besides there aint no turbo that could possible flow that much and if there was it would need a 4 rotor to spool it as no piston probably could.
 
Hey I could be wrong but Iv never seen anything like that.
 
I run my FD at 1.4bar with a GT3582R with loads of fuel and WI plus 3mm seals that dont brake.

[jetpilot]

Maybe you could let us know what seals you guys are using over there please?

[clive]

Im pretty sure there was and ausie drag rotor that used to boost around 40psi, around 2.75bar.
 
I doupt many engines would live after 7bar, 102psi...thats a little rediculouse fella. Besides there aint no turbo that could possible flow that much and if there was it would need a 4 rotor to spool it as no piston probably could.
 
Hey I could be wrong but Iv never seen anything like that.
 
I run my FD at 1.4bar with a GT3582R with loads of fuel and WI plus 3mm seals that dont brake.

Yes ludicrous on a rotary but I have been told that some of the works WRC cars have been running 4, 5, and even 6 Bar, and some also use petrol injected straight into the Turbo to keep it spooled up, although as a works Ford technician he wouldn\'t tell me how they accomplished this !.

This would explain why in the past why we hear the wastegate making so much noise.

From memory back in the F1 Turbo 1500cc / 1500bhp days they ran more boost than this which resulted in the bores trying to wander around in the block and going funny shapes !.

Toleman which eventually turned into the present day Renault FI team after numerous buy outs had Brian Hart build their engines and they had so much trouble handling metal boost pressures that they actually built a 4 valve per cylinder mono-block engine which is a block hune for one piece of metal.

The reason for this was to build not only a structurally strong engine but also to loose the cylinder head gasket so they had no head gasket to blow under the extreme boost pressures required to get 1500hp on pump fuel out of a mere 1500cc engine size.

(They were only allowed 5 star  fuel from the country they were racing in at the time).

And your right I have also heard of 40psi being run throgh Rotarys :Viking

[m1tch]

It seems that for non drag/race motors it seems that about 1.3 or 1.4 bar is ok then, I know that the engines lifespan will be reduced quite a bit if you boost at that level often, but as a daily drive/occasional drag runs 1.4 bar would be a good figure to build to? (my plan is to reduce the boost using a boost controller and only boost up to that kinda figure on drag runs) btw, what injectors are you running? im guessing uprated secondarys and perhaps terituary injectors? What boost could I safely do on 1000cc secondarys?

[Dr-Rotor]

I have 2x intank walbro pumps, stock 550cc, 1680cc 2ndrys, Aeromotive FPR.
 
1 fuel pump for each set of injectors. I have a dual stage boost controller, I use 1bar for street and 1.4bar for track racing. The block has huge dowels through it and some apex seals that can be put in a vice and hit with a hammer right over to 90 deg before they brake, wear as a stock or after market 3mm seal will brake on the first hit.
 
There is no name for the seals I use as my engine builder has them custom made. I think the closest thing to them is the TPS seal that I have heard of that dont brake either.
 
If you have WI to keep charge temps down, prevent detonation and a fuel suppply that exeedes the turbo with a doweld block and my seals you can pretty much just max out your turbo. I dont see the point to this as the turbo would then have a shorter life, I wanted 500whp and got 588 so we stoped there. No need for more when  a 750whp GTR cant get much more than 3-4 car lengths aways from you on a track.
 
I love my car...its easy to drive in traffic and has enough mambo to keep me happy for years to come.

[Dr-Rotor]

Ture story for you all from my engine builder.
 
Bridge ported, doweld, 3mm seals, same turbo as mine, heaps of fuel and a boost spike during tuning to 30psi or 2bar ran lean and was fine. Sorted the boost problem needed more fule, ended up with a bad batch of gas, motor detonated hard 4 times on the way back from the gas station.
 
Hmmm, sounds smooth still, checked compression, 1 rotor was low. Pulled it all apart and found that the tip of the rotor just outside the apex seal groove was dented in and stoped the seal from moving and allowing it to seal properly. Sent the rotor off for machining, put the same seals back in and away it went, no issues.
 
Im waiting for the PP engine to be tuned, they have been having some issues with injectors leaking and other things as you do. SO looking forward to that. It runs a GT3582R aswell and makes 8psi boost on idle....bloody insane. I think the turbo is going to max out on this puppy very early in the rev range and end up changing to something larger.

[m1tch]

How much are those seals? how high are you able to rev to?

[Dr-Rotor]

What boost could I safely do on 1000cc secondarys?

Well Id say 1.4 bar but that would probaly be about 98% duty cycle. You may need WI to help out though cos the more boost the more heat and the more chance of bang, keep that heat down and the power will stay consistant and be safer. Dont worry about duty cycle....basicaly its bad for track work but 98 or 100% for a drag run or a blast on the street isent going to do anything. The duty is the amount of time your injectors are open...so 100% means they are open all the time and get very hot and can fail, on a short blast it dosent matter, on the race track its a no no.
 
Mine is on 85% duty at 1.4bar. Due to WI keeping power constant and intake temps constant I can pull about 30 dyno runs and hit the exact same figure all the time...thats the beauty of WI.
 
Keep the air at the same density and the power will always stay the same. The more I thrash my car on a hot day the faster it goes cos the more the WI is cooling the air....without WI your car will not make the same power when the intake temps get hot.

[Dr-Rotor]

How much are those seals? how high are you able to rev to?

I go to 8,000 all the time.....Im going to ask my engine builder if we can take it to 9,000 as there are some places on the local track where I need another 1,000 rpm so that I am not shifting as im entering this slight bend on a paticular section, its only slight but when you are about to enter the next bend at 200kph it dose make it a little hairy to hang on to.
 
I dont see why we cant rev to 9k, motor is plenty strong enough and the turbo just dosent stop pulling at all.
 
Im sure I can get a price for you and perhaps ship some over to you. Better yet just send us your block and have my man build you a motor like mine, worth the money if you have it. I sepent $15,000 NZ on my motor, thats about 5,550 UK quid.

[m1tch]

Yeah im not going to be running about about 90% duty cycle as at about 92% its basically at 100% before it goes balistic and only injects 1/2 the flow leaning the engine lol

Im going to be running cryogenics on it and WI as well when im at that boost level, im aiming for about 400bhp, what boost level should I am for on that? Im guessing 1.2bar as your engine at 1.4 is running crazy numbers lol

With reving, if you lighten the rotors and perhaps a 2 peice shaft you can rev to 10 or more, but hey, I don\'t need to lol

[BlitzBoy]

How much are those seals? how high are you able to rev to?

PTS seals are over £600, ALS seals cheaper at around 300 both suppossed to bend\\warp as oppossed snapping or chipping, run them to around 9K safely.

But with good tuning stock Mazda seals do work see Dragons drag car two years ago reliable as f*&k.
but if u f*&k up the tuning they wil break and snap.

Mitch have you been in a big single FD yet?, you will find 400rwhp (UK figures not US) a beast on the road and strip, I run 11.80 at Pod with only 390 at the wheels

[m1tch]

My mates FD over in Norway is running over 500 and his cosmo is running only 380ish lol I haven\'t been in a big turbo FD, but I just want to be able to have fun on the strip my stock FC running at 0.5bar is running a slow 14.8

Im doing all the safety mods so im not just turning the boost up lol