Mandy has a temperature!! =(

Started by L18M, September 20, 2008, 01:06:17 AM

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L18M

i think its about time i changed the coolant in my fc.
i looked in the haynes manual n i looken on my rad. my rad dont seem to have the bleeder valve where it shows on the manual (the manual shows the bleeder valve on the top neck there it joins to the engine)

anyone know where the bleeder valves are on the TII?
plus is there any short cut way of doin this?

do i need to take the under tray out to change the coolant?

thanks in advance =)
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

Prof

The radiator drain plug is on the bottom of the rad - not quite in the centre - you need a large phillips screw driver for that one.   You\'ll need to jack the car up to get at it, but there is a hole in the undertray to allow access :)
 
You also want to drain the engine, as about half the coolant will still be in the system if you just drain the rad.  The engine drain plug is on the passenger side - if you look where the engine mounts are - just below the front rotor bottom spark plug - there are 4 bolts - 3 hold the engine mount, and the odd looking one is the coolant drain plug - think it\'s a 12 or 14mm socket.  It will poor out all over the engine mount, but will miss the undertray as it\'s further back.
 
From memory mine took 6 litres to fill up again !
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


L18M

nice thanks.. time to get a jack n thingies to hold the car up. been putting that off lol but think halford got offer on.
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

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L18M

ya.. axle stands.. lol
makes doin oil change a bit easier also!!
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

L18M

had a blond moment n couldnt find the eingin drain plug >.<
had to get a mate round to help find it.. but all done n dusted now.. so much solid sediment in the reserve tank!!

hopefully she all better now. will find out after work. =)

thanks again prof for the help =) =)
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

L18M

#6
just when i thought all was well..

fresh coolant n distilled water mix is in rad and filled to top in expansion tank.
temp was set to max in car to open a couple of the other pipes for the rad.

was on way to work and the rad light keeps comming on n off intermittant on the dash.
the temp gauge on the dash is always in the middle n my oftermarket temp gauge reads about 90 degrees n did go up to 100 at one point and i wasnt even stuck in traffic! =(

is there an air release valve im ment to twiddle to get the air out..?
the manual didnt mention anything about an air release screw.
anyone got any ideas?

on a side note, the IC pipes seem to get really hot n i wasnt even boosting it. =(
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

grinder

mine did that when i changed the fluid - did you check the fluid level when the buzzer went off

mine dropped just enough to set the buzzer off - stuck some more in , and it was fine


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L18M

Quote from: grinder;538885mine did that when i changed the fluid - did you check the fluid level when the buzzer went off

mine dropped just enough to set the buzzer off - stuck some more in , and it was fine

i have kept an eye out on coolant level n seems to need topping up still.
i topped up when i left work n the light still comes on =(

will take another look at levels n top up if need be tmr morning n also checl under car to make sure theres no leaks.

would of thought there should be a bleed valve to let the air out when topping up the rad.
looked in the manual n it shows a bleed valve but cant find on my rad. should be on the fat hose that is on the other side to where the filler cap is :confused:
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

grinder

i dont think the TII has a bleed valve - im sure that the EGI did - but not the TII

might be worth just keep topping it up


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Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
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Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
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Prof

I normally turn the engine over for a minute or so after coolant change and then recheck - the air bubbles will work their way to the top of the rad eventually.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


pdtaylor18

I keep the cap off and keep squeezing the top and bottom hoses to the rad, eventually you will get rid of all the air. Put the cap back on and let it pressurise and then just keep squeezing those hoses.  Just keep checking the levels every day until it all settles. I am going to build in a bleed nipple on mine which may help but hopefully its only a once a year job  so I may just live with it.
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L18M

thanks for the info guys.
slowly getting better.
so much crap still came out the filler neck.. kinda frothy crap.

i know better for next time now =)
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin