Brain picking

[Stevey]

Hi
 
I\'ve been hanging around for a month or so now, trying to find out as much information as possible about gen 3 fd\'s . I\'ve been looking at buying a 93-96 jap import , Now insurance is less on the non type R etc models so is it worth going for them if your likely to change most of the standard stuff anyway ??
 
Also i wanna get one with a knackered engine/mileage near rebuild . So i can get it rebuild to my spec , Im sure i want it ported but i cant seem to find out the limitations of street port etc etc , Ideally i want around 450 to 550 mark at the fly. Will i need a new gearbox . Basicly what sort of mods will i need to be able to reach this ??
 
Probaly sound\'s like stupid questions but i cant seem to find the information anywhere :xconfused
 
Any help would be great
 
Thanks
 
Stevey

[G@NDY]

Hi Stevey and welcome,

Im suprised that the insurance is affected by which type of FD you go for?? what company is it with and how much does each model add?

Type R;s are the most popular choice, I think and the most common, good because of the twin oil coolers but theres not much in each varient to be honest.

As for your power question, the stock twin turbo\'s reach there limit around the 360-380fwbhp mark. So if you want over 400, single turbo is the way to go, but its not cheap believe me, as you will need alot of other aftermarket parts. Best of buying a single turbo FD that needs or will need a rebuild and go that way to try and save a few quid. The FD gearbox\'s are good for over 500

hope that helps, regards Andy.

[sadgoth]

porting-wise

you should see over 500bhp from a decent sized Streetport with the right ancillaries, whether or not to go for street or bridge is also down to how driveable you want it on the street. The bridge I have in the FC is large and tbh, although I do drive the car on the road, it isn\'t a daily driver, it isn\'t the best setup for heavy traffic and the fuel economy is really heavy! (problem with an idle of 1800rpm)

a Bridge port will spool a big tirbo quicker than a similarly sized street port

[Hi RX7]

At this very early stage in your potential RX ownership I would also have a look at the costings of a V8 transplant to see if that might be suitable.

[AshRX]

Have you ever driven a 500+ rx7?

Dont mean to sound sarcastic here mate but 500 is hell of lot of power in a FD and is in the same league as a 700bhp + skyline or supra etc

[Stevey]

Ideally i wanted to use the rotary engine ,
 
I\'m just breaking my 350-370 bhp 200sx s14a and i love rx7\'s so i thought instead of wasting more money on my 200sx id change to a rx7 and get some more power and i love the looks:mmmm. Tbh id be happy with 450 ish , As i would like to track it alot . Drag is fun but not my cup of tea .
 
What sort of supporting mods would you need with a ported engine(not sure which one is best for 450-500) , I take it you would need , injectors , Power FC , V mount setup , Single turbo , Oil cooler ?? , Clutch , flywheel etc,
 
Do standard brakes do well on track ??
 
Thanks
 
Stevey

[AshRX]

New ecu
Radiator
Intercooler
clutch
fuel pump
injectors
fuel regulator
exhaust
single turbo
manifold
wastegate
water injection ( to be safe )
ingnition amp
colder plugs
big street port at least
bracing

probably forgotton loads

[Stevey]

New ecu
Radiator
Intercooler
clutch
fuel pump
injectors
fuel regulator
exhaust
single turbo
manifold
wastegate
water injection ( to be safe )
ingnition amp
colder plugs
big street port at least
bracing
 
probably forgotton loads

Didnt realize you had to port it so much , So what port would be recommend ?? and if i port it will it decrease life by alot ?

[AshRX]

you cant get 500 with big street port, anymore really then you will have to go bridge port

Bridge is horrible to drive round town and stop starting, street port is more driver friendly.

The port wont effect engine life but the extra power will. Your put more stress on internals within the engine

[Red and Single]

at 500bhp you\'ld be lucky for it to last 20K

[Red and Single]

more like 5 to 10K I imagine

[Stevey]

more like 5 to 10K I imagine

 
Wow !! ... Well as it will be used for track more ill think ill go for 350-400 then :Thumbsup!
 
Street port it is

[AshRX]

not always, my engine is on 10k run over 500bhp all its life and is strong as anything

its not going to be run at 500bhp all the time is it

[Stevey]

Thanks for all the info , All helps me make a discussion on what to do .
 
I\'ve decided that because i dont use the car as a drag car , But more of a  track car i think i will be happy around the 400bhp (fly figure) . What sort of life and Mpg can i expect from this . Im guessing it wont be great but i want a engine that will at least last 20-30k. Also will the diff take this ?
 
Dont wanna jump straight in with no clue :rollin

[Dr-Rotor]

Not sure what the hell some of you are all on about. Power dose not determin how long an engine will last. Build quality and the time the engine spends at that power level will determin the life.
 
A 500hp track car will not last as long as a 500hp street car. For 1 the street car hardly ever sees 500hp as there are minimal opertunitiys to use it. 2) you can have a dual stage boost controller to adjust between power settings. 3) the fuel economy is based on your porting, My Extended port is only about 25km less on fuel mileage, but when you use the power it will use the fuel more as you need more fuel to make that power.
 
My 500+hp FD has seen more than 100 laps of the local track, has done 10,000km and drives like and absolute stock car with the clutch I use. You must DOWEL the block to cope with the stress of racing. No dowel and it will twist up at 500hp.
 
Stock calipers are fine for racing. I would not use them for racing thats more than 10 laps though. Rebuild all the calipers, use EBC slotted discs, EBC yellow stuff pads, Braided lines, 5.1 dot fluid and bleed the brakes every time before track use. Bed them in properly and you will be rewarded with a brake system that can stop you in less than 100m from 250kph...belive me I know, it will almost put you through the damn window. Providing ofcousre you have racing suspension & smeislick tyres. On the road with a good street tyre and the same suspension the brakeing will be equaly as good.  If you want to race 20+lap races you need larger brakes to cope with the heat of racing. You will also need a racing brake master cylinder to cope with the larger calipers. O dont forget to duct your brakes with something.
 
You want 500hp to drive on the road and track this is what you need.
 
Garret GT3582R
2 x wallbro intank pumps, A surge tank if you want one.
stock primary injectors, 1680cc 2ndrys, braided fuel line.
PFC ECU, full exhaust system, 3" or biger.
FMIC or VMIC, your choice. Large alloy rad.
2x large oil coolers.
Doweld block with extended porting and 3mm TPS race seals
custom turbo manifold or buy a very very good quality thick stainless steel one because i tell you now a crapy one will crack in the heat of racing. I recomend a custome build steam pipe manifold like mine.
50mm waste gate
BOV\'s are optional, people seem to have funny ideas about these so I leave that up to you.
Boost controller and GM-3Bar mapsensor---you will need some one who knows how to remap your PIM for this mod. If you get the exact GM3BAR I have I can just give you all my PIM values.
The drive train is all up to you and how you drive, some people brake the stock drive train with stock cars, others strip gears with stock cars. I guess we cant all drive the same. Personal all you need is a clutch. I use the Exedy twin plate D core carbon fiber unit. It drives like a stocker but handels over 600hp. The D stands for DAMPER...this helps protect your drive train.
Mazdaspeed PPF (Power Plant Fram) or just strengthen your existing one.
Boost gauge and PFC handcontroller to keep track off water temp, air temp, duty cycle and boost again.
HKS R5 cold plugs all round. They are equvilient to NGK 10s
Water injection...personaly i recomend the PINZ system that i use. I has a pump that runs dry all day long...no need to worry about failer. Cost you about 400GBP
Some coilovers, and semislicks.
 
A roll cage if you want one and other braces are all optional.
 
I think thats about it. All up it cost me 15k NZ.