My Winter Project

[Prof]

ive found switching the fan on around 90 - 92 is best, has does the stock set up compare to that?
 
Mark

It\'s close to that - seems to be around mid to high 80\'s on idle / light load, and raises to 91/92 under some load.  On really long power runs it\'s got into the mid 90\'s :spank:Giggle

[Prof]

Another update :guinness
 
Found a wierd bug or funny with the eManage.  It seems that the stock timing is sent out when the Stock ECU takes it\'s Airflow signal from the eManage.  I had all the maps set to \'0\' so no timing inputs should have been made.  After routing the AFM signal back to the stock ECU, the timing went back to normal :yes.
 
I wasn\'t planning to use the Airflow Adjustment map in any case, as I prefer to edit the injector adjustment and Ignition maps directly, so I\'ve lost nothing in reverting this signal back to the stock ECU.
 
I even had a friend watch the readings on a pair of multimeters attached to the AFM output and the eManage output respectively as I gently pushed the cone in and out - both meters reacted as expected - with about 0.04 volts between them - so the signal would seem to be correctly being processed - just can\'t get my head round the ignition timing being thrown so much.

[mpk490p]

Another update :guinness
 
Found a wierd bug or funny with the eManage.  It seems that the stock timing is sent out when the Stock ECU takes it\'s Airflow signal from the eManage.  I had all the maps set to \'0\' so no timing inputs should have been made.  After routing the AFM signal back to the stock ECU, the timing went back to normal :yes.
 
I wasn\'t planning to use the Airflow Adjustment map in any case, as I prefer to edit the injector adjustment and Ignition maps directly, so I\'ve lost nothing in reverting this signal back to the stock ECU.
 
I even had a friend watch the readings on a pair of multimeters attached to the AFM output and the eManage output respectively as I gently pushed the cone in and out - both meters reacted as expected - with about 0.04 volts between them - so the signal would seem to be correctly being processed - just can\'t get my head round the ignition timing being thrown so much.

Dave you lost me when you said ECU:Thumbsup!:rollin:Thumbs-up

Mark

[Prof]

After some backside dyno action on the strip, the untuned eManage seems to have sapped a little power in the midrange.
 
I\'ve got a spreadsheet of the first logging from the eManage - this was after the AFM was wired back to the stock ECU.  In theory the eManage isn\'t altering injector or igntion timing - so these readings show what the chipped ECU is doing with the fuel.  Interstingly - the primaries are being used to add fuel at higher pressures - that\'s one of the differences from a stock ECU, where the duty would be held around 40% on the primary, and the secondaries would be run up to a maximum.
 
EDIT - Seem\'s it won\'t let me attach the spreadsheet

[Prof]

Saved the graph as an htm page

[Prof]

3rd time lucky

[pdtaylor18]

Are you sure thats not your heart beat when doing the Strip ?  lol

So having looked at the graph I am still none the wiser but are your injectors opening enough at full throttle? is this where you lost loads of power? How do you interpret that graph?
Wish I had gone up the strip now, might have been the last time in this FC, would have been interesting to see what it would have got.  Mind you if you compare yours against Adrians then he got fairly good results for the mods done.  Yours has got about 100 BHp more as well!! He only got 120 something on the dyno but he did shoot a big fire ball out the back on his dyno run so probably over fuelling and needs that FMIC.

[Prof]

Needs a quick explanation I suppose - the yellow line at the top of the graph was water temps - you can see that after a run on boost - where the dark blue line spikes - the water temp spikes just after it.  The brown line shows AFR\'s - most of the time it sits below 14, but on lifting off, the boost drops to vacuum (purple line at the botton), the brown line flattens at 22 (fuel cut) and the revs start to drop as it coasts down.  The interesting part is that at the end of the graph, the ECU sends the primary injectors to 100% during the same cycle, in an attempt to bring water temps down.
 
Basically from that graph - the radiator was struggling to cool things after a hard push, and the chipped ECU responds to that by pushing the primaries full on during a fuel cut cycle - hence unburnt fuel in the exhaust and flames - lol
 
The good thing is that the injectors never go much above 80% even at 12 psi boost - so the chipped ECU is handling the fueling well.  This was a Blitz Access ECU - I suspect Knightsports and Panspeed chips will behave in a similar fashion.

[BlitzBoy]

is the afr recorded  by a wideband or narrowband sensor

[Prof]

is the afr recorded by a wideband or narrowband sensor

Wideband - it\'s an Innovate LC-1 - the AFR\'s actually dip right down into 10\'s at some points - but it reaches a good ratio on closed loop - as the stock lambda is still also running in the down pipe

[Prof]

A few pics of the progress on getting the engine ready for being hoisted out - thanks to Aceman and Mitch for assistance rendered.
 
As it stands all electrics are off the engine, all water pipes, oil cooler detached, vac lines off, fuel lines, alternator, radiator, starter motor and down pipe are off.  Loosened engine mounts, bell housing to engine and rear gearbox mount (it\'s all coming out).  All fluids drained.
 
As you can see from the pics, there is some damage to the top radiator pipe neck, and also the thermostat housing outlet pipe - I found most of the missing bits in the top rad hose  Also, does anyone know how to get the oil line off the front of the engine - there are 2 nuts, and the smaller one nearest the engine is lose against the engine, but just moves with the rest of the line - do I need to split these 2 nuts ?

[grinder]

never seen a rad pipe like that .. impressive

[BenLewisMav]

Alright mate,
swift progress!
Please PM me your mobile number as I wanted to call you the other day (nothing important) and realised I didn\'t have it, neither did anyone else I asked! Cheers

Also with that oil line, the easiest way I find is just disconnect them from the oil cooler end.

I\'ve also made a little box for you, called, \'the bits grinder broke whilst taking the engine out\', so if you\'d like to add any more bit to the list just let me know.
Right now we have;

-Radiator neck
-Thermostat housing/Water pump neck (piece of fragile plastic seems to break all the time!)

[BenLewisMav]

Also are you going to de-solenoid it all and simplify the rats nest?
I still have my simplified rats nest if you want to save the head scratching and messing around! Just bolt it on.
Not sure how it would effect the standard ecu tho?

[Prof]

Also are you going to de-solenoid it all and simplify the rats nest?
I still have my simplified rats nest if you want to save the head scratching and messing around! Just bolt it on.
Not sure how it would effect the standard ecu tho?

I was looking at that lot and thinking - yes - not all of these need to go back on.  I am going to order some resistors to fudge the ecu so that it thinks the solenoids are still on.
 
Looking at the manual - the blue and grey ones now do nothing on my car, as I\'ve taken off the ACV and air pump so they are surplus - they are Split air and Relief Air.  The Orange one I think is the PCV - which holds fuel pressure up on idle when warm starting - since I have a walbro pump and higher idle fuel pressure anyway - that one is also not needed.  I\'ve already elimintated the boost solenoid, so that just leaves the green one - not to sure what that one does - as in the Haynes Guide, the series 5 cars don\'t have it.  On the Series 4 cars it\'s EGR - and as I don\'t have that - I\'m guessing that one is also surplus.  I\'m also not putting the AWS solenoid back on either
 
Looks like I am going to have to move the purge valve - round black plastic thing that used to sit just under the intercooler - it\'s right in the way of where the compression tube outlet will go - does anyone know if that can be mounted at other angles - or does it have to sit with the disc horizontal ?  I suppose I could just route it to a catch tank - but wanted to avoid doing that if possible.
 
As to the thermostat housing neck - do you have a good one or did I understand from your post that your\'s was also toast ?
 
I\'ll PM phone number as well.