Rev limiter?

[m1tch]

Hey guys, I was just wondering about this, I know I have been chatting to Prof about it and I think we have figured out what it might be but my \'stock\' fc doesn\'t seem to have a rev limiter :3Confused

The buzzer goes off at 7k, there is a mild intermittant cut (im guessing rear rotor fuel cut) but I have accidently reved it to 8k before and nothing has happened or stopped me.

Prof believes its been chipped as it also does the same wierd idle thing that his car does as well, ie it idles at 800, then if you push the clutch down and select a gear it increases revs to 1000.

Any other ideas?

[L18M]

i read in a thread b4 that the knight sport ecu N374 i think it was does not have a rev limit.
 
I had an N374 ECU in my jdm import fc but:
a, never tried to do past 7k incase i damage my motor
b, i think there is sth wrong with that ecu as when i brought the car the front rotor didnt seem like it was doing much. took car to haywards n found the prob to be the ecu so i chaged it.
 
thinking back.. i\'d like to plug in my N374 ecu n try again. i opened it up n everything looks in top condition n solder joints look fine, no sign of nething blowing.
easy to see if a resistor blows or capacitor but nt sure about other components.
 
hope this helps.
if u like i can try reving my fc to over 7k n see wot happens.. ONLY if you wanna pay for any damage that occures it nething blows lol

[TiddlesRX7]

I\'ve had mine up around 8k before now. Not tried it with my KnightSports ecu though so can\'t comment on it now. I\'m sure i\'ll be able to tell you after Rotorstock! The buzzer used to come on at 7k but the car still reved freely up to around 8k.

[Prof]

My old stock ECU definitely had a rev limiter - it\'s kind of \'soft and fluffy\' and just bounced the revs between about 6800 and 7100 when you hit it - certainly not one of the more drastic cut\'s that some other cars have.
 
The ECU I have now (Blitz Access chipped) doesn\'t have RPM, Speed or Rear Rotor Fuel cut - and it rev\'s freely past 7000 - not taken it beyond 7700, as the water pump isn\'t on an underdrive pulley and will cavitate, you will also give your alternator a hard time if you run the engines at this rev rate for any long period - the occasional \'excursion\' up the top end of the rev band shouldn\'t do any harm.
 
Having said that, with no REV limiter, if you change gear with your foot anywhere near the throttle, the engine will spin up mighty quick and therefore much more care needs to be excersized ! I\'m going to get the eManage to do ignition cut on the clutch switch, so I can do flat changes and still keep my foot hard down on the pedal :Giggle
 
I\'d say if your ECU is chipped, then the rear rotor fuel cut will have been taken off as well, as there is little point in eliminating RPM cut if this isn\'t also removed. It\'s easy enough to tell - you need a bit of \'private road\', a gradient will help too (uphill), some gas in your tank and then just give it major beans. When your boost gets to just over 8 psi, you should feel a little jolt and loss of power, then if you keep your foot in and stay on WOT, the rear fuel cut is defeated by the ECU and the car will start to pull hard again.
 
 
NOTE: Any damage done whilst you test these theories out isn\'t my fault :spank, but to spare you the test - I\'ve tested both Rev limiter and rear fuel cut so I know what they feel like and neither time did I do any damage to the engine - but please check that your car is in good nick and not just out of a rebuild before you try anything like this - if you\'re getting error codes of any sort and don\'t know why, or if fluids are not to spec, etc then don\'t risk it.