What power can the standard gearbox take?

Started by najiru, June 16, 2008, 01:03:59 PM

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mx1311

Quote from: BlitzBoy;518976going to get a spare FD box when funds allow as I sp*nked so much money on the car this year.
Was thinking of going Supra gearbox or HKS dog box in Winter or next year.

But let us know how the cyro freezing goes as this may be an option, as I do like the standard FD box

james is selling his trust dog box, just being rebuilt but has no reverse gear

also gonna try some of that shock oil s**t too dude see if that helps in a standard fd box, will keep you posted

nikp

Are there any company out there that sell an off the shelf bell housing for the supra \'box to fit the FD engine?

BlitzBoy

no off the shelf bellhousing, just buy the adapter plate which mates between the FD bellhousing and the supra box, two companies in OZ do them, cant remember who at the mo
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

nikp

ah, there\'s an adapter plate, eh? Cunning!

What clutch do you use - the FD one? And I assume the gearbox needs modifying so that it\'ll take the FD PPF?

BlitzBoy

FD one I believe, yes it will need modifying
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

RedRummy

Quote from: mx1311;518958what route you going this year mark???

im having a go at cryo freezing an fd box in a couple of months along with an 8 box ;)

colum

How do I explain the gearbox in the freezer to the missus then?
;)
"Life moves pretty fast....
If you don\'t stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it..."
Ferris Beuller, 1986.

najiru

Quote from: Lil-Steve;518979I remember on of the Supra guys getting some parts of his gearbox shot peened, I think it was the forks and some moly bearings. I\'m no expert on gearboxes yet, but his R154 is holding 770hp and they can only take about 500hp stock and then not for long.
 
That might be a cheaper option but it\'s going to be a lot in labour unless you can take the box to pieces on your own.

Shot peening wont add any static strength to the materials ie. what the maximum power/torque they can take is. It will however improve their fatigue life as it compresses the top layer of the material and causes residual compressive stress on the surface where fatigue cracks start. As you only get fatigue issues in tension this compressive preload reduces the tension in the surface therefore increasing fatigue resistance. Basically this might increase a box\'s reliability, if you\'re finding a box takes the power but only for a few thousand miles for example this might work well.
 
Quote from: Gatesy;518963Corect me if I am wrong but Cryo freezing metal does increase the strength but also makes the metal alot more brittle IIRC. In a gearbox is this a good idea?
I could be totally wrong just want to get my head around it.

Not too sure about cyro freeze treatment, however it\'s likely the parts will be more brittle but they will also be tougher and have better wear resistance as well as the added strength. As long as the treatment is done to sensible level I wouldn\'t think they would be too brittle and cause a problem.

matt p

Quote from: BlitzBoy;518952or the other root would be the Supra Six speed with a bell housing adapter, they were designed out the factory to hold 500bhp as standard.
Or the other proven root for high horsepower is the HKS dog boxes they rock solid cost about £3k for H pattern and £6K for sequential, proven in Dragons 9.1 second drag car

Sorry blitz is that for the complete gearbox or the gear kit and would you need the kit  fitting?.

That\'s bloody reasonable for a dog box compared to a lot off the cosworth upgrades I was looking into for my saph.

Regards

Matt
Why its good to do your homework of "specialists"

http://www.fduk.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28429

BlitzBoy

thats the whole box , these are second hand values mind from Japan
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

Dr-Rotor

Personaly I think its all in the way you drive. Another thing that would brake your gear box will be the type of clutch you have & tyres.
 
You must remeber that once traction is obtained there are only 3 other things to let go, axels, gears & diffs. This is why I will not drag race my FD, only circuit race it.
 
I have seen people break FD gear boxes with a stock Motor....mainly due to hard shifting and what not.
 
I recomend an Exedy D core twin plate carbon clutch. The D stands for (Damper). It is designed for racing to reduce shock through the drive train, this helps not to brake axels, diffs & gears. I use 1 on my FD. It operates just like a stocker, only with more pressure & bite. When they get hotter they grip more. Great for high powerd street cars.
 
As I said before about the traction, its better to spin than to hook up & break something. I use Goodyear eagel F1\'s 265 on my FD....perfect for wet weather & spin up very easily if I feel the need to cane 1st gear. Once going you have traction & the load on the gears between shifts is not as harsh.
 
I always tell people, drive the car to its abilitys, EG: The speed of the shift through gear should be felt & placed correctly not pushed & forced, thats when you brake stuff. Those guys that shift & drop the clutch through every gear & chirp the wheels on nearly every gear change are the ones that brake drive line equipment.
 
My 2c.