Air pump- Stay or get shot?

[Prof]

Air pump removal:
 
If you do take it off, you\'ll get a lot more room, but as Grizzly said, don\'t run it for long or at high rev\'s on a single pulley.  Once the air pump is gone, there is only a small amount of belt in contact with the fan/water pump pulley.  The dual alternator belts are a good solution to this - the pulleys can be had from Maztatrix, Atkins Rotary, or do a search on eBay - got mine from a guy in the US who makes the dual pulley and also a conversion so that an FD alternator can be used.
 
Down sides: You will run close to the emissions limits - you\'ll probably get the car to pass on a no cat test (3.5% CO and 1200ppm HC) if you\'ve got a warm engine, new plugs and the STOCK fuel pump.  If you gone with a walbro pump - they cause the car to run rich on idle and that will screw your emissions
 
If you remove the air pump, you may as well get shot of the ACV, relief silencer and anything that\'s left of the split air piping, as it\'s all spare weight.

[m1tch]

Im keeping my airpump until I change my ECU, then I can run decat (my car still has the main cat) and still be legal and pass the MOT when I tweek the setting. The airpump has 2 functions, 1 to cool the 2 precats on the downpipe (to stop them melting and imploding in the 900C exhaust flow) and secondly port air, so only remove the airpump if you need to get better airflow to the turbo and get rid of the double 90 degree bend AND you have a new ECU to control emmissions.

[DemonRx4]

Im getting a Header kit for my EGI and i was told that gets rid of the Air pump. what sort of improvements can i expect? other than the obvious lack of popping from the poxy screamer pipe :-)

[L18M]

After much thoughts about removing the air pump or not, i think i will remove it.
I\'ll worry about the emmissions when i come to the MOT.

So from what i understand best to get twin alt pulley and block off plates.
anything else?
B4 i go and order an alt pulley from the states, or maybe wgt, does anyone have one for sale or kno where i can buy one cheap in uk?
also the block off plates i was quoted 50ukp! which i thought was a tad much. can anyone make me some? name ur price.. or even better.. if anyone wanna remove my air pump for me that that would be best ;p

[Alex_Eng]

After much thoughts about removing the air pump or not, i think i will remove it.
I\'ll worry about the emmissions when i come to the MOT.
 
So from what i understand best to get twin alt pulley and block off plates.
anything else?
B4 i go and order an alt pulley from the states, or maybe wgt, does anyone have one for sale or kno where i can buy one cheap in uk?
also the block off plates i was quoted 50ukp! which i thought was a tad much. can anyone make me some? name ur price.. or even better.. if anyone wanna remove my air pump for me that that would be best ;p

I bought my block off plates off ebay! copied them in the workshop using 3mm SS, then sold them back on ebay for slighty more, WIN WIN. Go SS as it\'s stiff, Ali might bend allowing leaks because the stud holes arn\'t always in the best places to provide a good seal.

[Alex_Eng]

Anyone one else dont the Throttle Body mod? I have taken out the second set of butterfly valves in my throttle body, as well as the cold start stuff.
 
As yet it\'s not fully tested, as done many mods at the same time so the benefit is to be seen, but it must increase flow rate.
 
I have another TB which I\'m going to take a step further, see weather I can make butterfly valve shafts that are flush!! Workshop again. and also port and polish the TB intake.
 
In my dreams I could try and design a slide valve that directly replaces the standard TB and still uses the TPS, I have an idea, but also a life. would be cool though.

[L18M]

finally got the blanking plates and twin alt pulley.
was attempting to diy it but then realised that theres a vac line goin from the pressure sensor to BOV and ACV.

from what i have read, once the acv if out the tube is pluged into a nipple nr the bac.
has anyone got a pic of that?

even better, is there anyone nr harrow wanna come give me a hand?
i\'ll treat u to a chicken cottage lol

[Prof]

finally got the blanking plates and twin alt pulley.
was attempting to diy it but then realised that theres a vac line goin from the pressure sensor to BOV and ACV.
 
from what i have read, once the acv if out the tube is pluged into a nipple nr the bac.
has anyone got a pic of that?
 
even better, is there anyone nr harrow wanna come give me a hand?
i\'ll treat u to a chicken cottage lol

Use the one that sticks out under the BAC valve - you can\'t miss it - if something else is plugged into it - tee off it

[L18M]

thanks prof.. i hav a lookie earlier n found it.
but i couldnt get the bottom left nut off the acv :s

also not easy to get the nut off the alt for the pulley.
a visit to ben soon me thinks.. =p

[L18M]

i now have the ACV removed and placed with a blanking plate. the 3 tubes going into the ACV has been blocked off (if what a bit of a botched job using elec tape =/ ) and the hose to the BOV and ACV has been blocked off (or is this ment to be plugged into the BAC? i thought the BAC nipple was just a blank?)
an elec plug [1] has been removed from the ACV and not plugged into anything now.
 
car starts and works fine but the boost gague does not work!
is that due to the elec plug (ref [1]) being removed and not plugged in anywhere?
 
there is a wire from teh AFM going to the pressure sensor leading to somewhere else with also a white 2 pin plug on it not connected to anywhere. is that ment to be unplugged?
 
i have not booted it anywhere yet so cant hear if the BOV still works or not.
 
the split air hose (i think is that one) goes towards the turbo and is still on and the one going to the cat is also still on as cat is still there.
 
HELP PLS!!!! cheers =)

[L18M]

*nudge nudge*

[Prof]

i now have the ACV removed and placed with a blanking plate. the 3 tubes going into the ACV has been blocked off (if what a bit of a botched job using elec tape =/ ) and the hose to the BOV and ACV has been blocked off (or is this ment to be plugged into the BAC? i thought the BAC nipple was just a blank?)
an elec plug [1] has been removed from the ACV and not plugged into anything now.

I think that you\'ve unplugged the vac source for your BOV and also for the MAP sensor - a pic of what you\'ve done would help.
 

car starts and works fine but the boost gague does not work! is that due to the elec plug (ref [1]) being removed and not plugged in anywhere?

That wire controls a solenoid valve within the ACV - it can remain unplugged - small black round plug is it ?
 

there is a wire from teh AFM going to the pressure sensor leading to somewhere else with also a white 2 pin plug on it not connected to anywhere. is that ment to be unplugged?

That \'white\' plug is probably faded yellow - if it\'s by the shock tower, it\'s the fuel pump primer plug - normally it\'s not connected to anything, but if you\'ve depressurized the fuel system, you short that plug out and turn the igniton part way - it will allow the fuel pump to operate without starting the engine.
 

i have not booted it anywhere yet so cant hear if the BOV still works or not.
 
the split air hose (i think is that one) goes towards the turbo and is still on and the one going to the cat is also still on as cat is still there.
 
HELP PLS!!!! cheers =)

Split air is the air that goes to down the metal pipe into the CAT if you still have it.  The other hose that was on the ACV apart from the one to the air pump is the relief air - that just vents the air pump air to atmoshpere under certain rev conditons - if you\'ve taken the ACV off it does nothing now.

[L18M]

sorry dont know how to use the multi quote thing :2Confused
 
[ATTACH]40868[/ATTACH]
thas what i\'ve done. the red tape is bolckign the pipes n hoses.
 
i have re-attached all that i can (and remember lol).
not sure which the vac source for bov is :confused: nor map sensor :confused::confused:
 
im happy that the solenoid valve remains unplugged and yes it is a round black one.
 
i would of thought if the boost gauge is not plugged in correct then the needle on the gague would rest as low as poss but it rests at zero.
 
thanks dave. ur a star =)
drinks on me next time we out :cheers:guinness
 

I think that you\'ve unplugged the vac source for your BOV and also for the MAP sensor - a pic of what you\'ve done would help.
 
 
 
That wire controls a solenoid valve within the ACV - it can remain unplugged - small black round plug is it ?
 
 
 
That \'white\' plug is probably faded yellow - if it\'s by the shock tower, it\'s the fuel pump primer plug - normally it\'s not connected to anything, but if you\'ve depressurized the fuel system, you short that plug out and turn the igniton part way - it will allow the fuel pump to operate without starting the engine.
quote]

[Prof]

Boost gauge reading 0 is correct - as soon as the gauge is powered up, it will read the pressure on the MAP sensor - which is 0 (atmosphere).  The boost gauge is electronic and driven from the MAP sensor output - so what ever it sees, that\'s what your gauge is reading.
 
When the gauge is at the bottom, it\'s actually registering the vacuum that occurs when the engine is on idle or low throttle input/no load.  As you load up the engine, the pressure increases past 0 and into positive boost.
 
If you look just under the BAC valve, you should find a small metal pipe (nipple) sticking out of the inlet manifold - connect your BOV and MAP sensor to that using a t piece - that should restore functionality.
 
Incidentally - where are you getting the air supply to the BAC valve from (the pipe under the BAC valve - that\'s the inlet to it) ?

[L18M]

im assuming by map sensor u mean the tube going from the pressure sensor box?
 
will try plugging the loose end to the bov nipple once i get my car back (fitting alarm) not that anyone can prob nick my car as if u start it n dunt press throttle then engine dies lol.. if u do that too much then it floods *fingers crossed will work*
 
as for air suply to the bac. im assuming, again, u mean where the blue pipe is going?
the other end of the blue pipe is going to the air filter and sucks air in. think when i was at bens that if that pipe was blocked then the engin stalls. (cant quite remember)
 

Boost gauge reading 0 is correct - as soon as the gauge is powered up, it will read the pressure on the MAP sensor - which is 0 (atmosphere). The boost gauge is electronic and driven from the MAP sensor output - so what ever it sees, that\'s what your gauge is reading.
 
When the gauge is at the bottom, it\'s actually registering the vacuum that occurs when the engine is on idle or low throttle input/no load. As you load up the engine, the pressure increases past 0 and into positive boost.
 
If you look just under the BAC valve, you should find a small metal pipe (nipple) sticking out of the inlet manifold - connect your BOV and MAP sensor to that using a t piece - that should restore functionality.
 
Incidentally - where are you getting the air supply to the BAC valve from (the pipe under the BAC valve - that\'s the inlet to it) ?