My rebuild thread

[ianelvar]

Remove the three bolts holding the heat shield on. Try not to break them like I did. Thry will often start to move, then jam up again like mine did. Free them off a touch, then stop if they stick, and cover in plenty of penetrating oil - WD40 will do -  and work back and forth until they come loose. It might seem like a lot of work, but it\'s much less than drilling them out when they\'ve sheared off.

[ianelvar]

Using two spanners, release the oil feed. 1 spanner is required to stop the pipe spinning while you back the nut off with the other spanner.
Undo the bolts securing the oil drain-back pipes fore and aft of the turbo pack.
Loosen the rubber pipe that connects the turbo pack to the coolant top hose casting.
Remove the two nuts that secure the inlet elbow to the front turbo, and move tabs that secure the metal vacuum and pressure pipes out of the way.
Disconnect the two rubber hoses that connect to the two actuators at the front of the turbo pack.
Remove the eight nuts and bolts that secure the turbo pack, and pull it clear, making sure all the hoses and connections are free.

[ianelvar]

Remove the two bolts securing the heat shield to either side of the manifold, and the nut underneath holding the plate protecting the acutator.
Diconnect the actuator from the lever by pulling the spring clip free with long nose pliers, then remove the two larger bolts holding the actuator to the bottom of the manifold.
Lift the actuator and sheild free of the manifold.

[ianelvar]

Remove the 4 nuts securing the manifold to the block, and pull it free. The studs may come with the nuts, but this often can\'t be helped.

[ianelvar]

Disconnect the 2 small oil banjos.
Remove the 3 bolts securing the OMP to the front cover.
Do not try to disconnect the electical conenction from the OMP - the loom with be split further up at a later stage. For the moment, support it out of the way for the removal of the water pump.

[ianelvar]

Diconnect the gauge temp. sender which is on the front of the assembly.
Disconnect the small hose at the back.
Undo the nuts securing the water pump to the front of the engine.
Pull the water pump forwards a couple of inches, then disconnect the coolant level sensor and ECU temp sensor on the back.
Move the OMP oil lines and loom out of the way, and pull the assembly clear.

[ianelvar]

Remove the 2 nuts securing the plate to the back of the block, and the nut supporting the oil line at the front.

[ianelvar]

Undo the 4 bolts securing the pulley wheels to the nose of the eccentric shaft, and pull them clear. The bolts are best undone with the ratchet set as shown, as this tends not to rotate the shaft whilst the nuts are turned.

[ianelvar]

Progressivley undo the 6 bolts holding the clutch pressure plate to the flywheel in several passes. Pull the pressure plate free of the small location dowels and remove the friction plate.

[ianelvar]

Mount a tool to prevent rotation of the flywheel as shown.
Heat the E-shaft nose bolt for a couple of minutes to loosen the thread lock.
Use an impact wrench to loosen the bolt. Do not remove it fully at this stage.
Use an impact wrench to loosen the flywheel nut.

[ianelvar]

That\'s all on the write up for today. I\'ve stripped the block down and found that most of it is scrap. Housings have chrome scraped off where the small part of the seal runs past the exhaust port (I can\'t help thinking the apex seals aren\'t a great design), all the plates have deepish score marks enough to catch a nail on, and the front and back have broken walls to the coolant seal channels. All in all, it\'s not looking very good for this motor.

[matt p]

Cracking write up so far ian!...shame about the engine though, are you replacing the housings or just binning the whole thing?

Regards

Matt

[ianelvar]

Thanks I\'m about to strip the engine that was in the car until yesterday to see what that looks like, and then try to make 1 good one out out of what\'s useable in both of them. Fingers crossed I\'ll get some good housings! I have made a few enquiries with chroming companies about the possibility of getting the worn housings re-chromed. There are a fair few that are tooled up for applying chrome to aluminium, and as they\'re scrap anyway I might as well give it a go!
I\'ll have a chat with Carl about the possibility of getting the plates lapped in the week as well. I think the rotors will be ok, they seem to have cleaned up reasonably.

[ianelvar]

Attach a flywheel puller as show locating two appropriate bolts into the threaded holes in the flywheel. Have the flywheel nut on the e-shaft so the back edge is flush with the end of the shaft. There should be about 4mm clearance between the nuts and the flywheel at this point.
Use a thick piece of metal over the top of the nut as a load spreader, and tighted up the bolt on the puller. Occasionally the flywheel will come off just with some pressure from the puller, but most of the time it will need some assistance.
If the flywheel won\'t budge, keep pressure on the puller, and strike the flywhee around the edge as shown. DO NOT STRIKE IT ON THE SHINY BIT THAT THE FRICTION PLATE RUNS AGAINST, OR YOU WILL DAMAGE YOUR FLYWHEEL!
You should find the after a couple of knocks with the hammer it will come off with a bang! It can\'t go very far as the nut is still there to stop it, but it will still be quite impressive.
Remove the puller, take the nut off and withraw the flywheel.

[ianelvar]

Wind the lock nut right out, then back in three turns.
Apply three leg pullers as shown.
Tighten up the pullers and the bush will start to move. You shouldn\'t encouter too much resistance, and it will come away quite easily. It will eventually pull up against the back of the nut. At this point, take the pullers off, undo the nut, being careful to with draw the springs inside, and slide the bush off by hand the rest of the way. Put the nut and internals back into the e-shaft to protect it and keep them safe.