My Winter Project

[pdtaylor18]

Pete - there is an equivalent you can use - R34 iirc, used it in my old TII with no probs :wave

Is the R34 freely available? be nice to have the option of aircon.  I know it may sound silly when you have a cab but believe it or not, its nice to have the roof up on some hot days so aircon would be rather nice and especially with leather seats.

[Prof]

Hmm sounds a good setup for my WI...
A coolant overflow bottle rigged up with a brake fluid level sender, routed to an LED and buzzer on the dash, also going to the Microtech 12v in to retard the ign. timing and add more fuel when the WI runs out...
 
Have you considered a Windscreen/ pop up headlight washer Res. instead of the coolant overflow? (i dont actually have a spare coolant overflow res. hanging around). I guess the coolant overflow bottle actually has the right clips etc on it for mounting.

 
You could just put a relay in circuit with the boost controller solenoid - if you\'ve an aftermarket one.  That way you can cut the extra boost when you run out of water - as it won\'t be needed on just spring boost - save you bothering with all that extra tuning for the Microtech

[Brett]

R34 is commercially available ASFAIK, so any outfit should be able to sort you out

(Assuming the system is intact with no leaks?)

[Prof]

Well - time for an update again
 
Tried connecting the eManage back in yesterday - with similar results - runs rich - but actually not as bad as last time so there is some progress.
 
I ran a few checks with the engine running - rpm and throttle reading ok, but the eManage has no clue about water temp and intake temp - the readings are well off - need to investigate that further.
 
I also checked the error codes with the eManage plumbed in, as I had some idea why it was still overfuelling...
 
I got errors :
 
8,42,71 and 73 of the stock ECU - these are AFM, Boost Solenoid, and Front and Rear Secondary injectors - there is no code or check made for primaries - as your car wouldn\'t even start if these were out.  So that explains the overfuelling now.
 
The injector problem is easy to solve, - the stock ECU is looking for a load of around 12-12 ohms on the outputs, and the eManage ultimate isn\'t providing it - so looks like I have to make another gizmo box with 4 12-15 ohm resistors in it and provide the necessary load on the stock injector outputs.  The other end of the resistors would connect to the injector positive rail.
 
Not worried about the Bost Solenoid fault code - I don\'t have the stock one - although I may wire in a resistor just to get clean readings in future.
 
That just leaves the AFM code - really not sure why this is being thrown by the stock ECU - I\'m using the Ultimates airflow adjustment map, but with all values set to 0 (no change) at the moment - and the voltage in / voltage out are exactly the same - so again I\'m guessing the stock ECU needs to see a certain loading on the pin, and the eManage isn\'t providing it.
 
On a plus note, I\'ve made some adjustments to the boost controller and have a much improved power band as a result.  The lag on the turbo is reduced and the car feels much more responsive in the lower revs.  We\'ll see it Japshow if the changes so far have paid off

[pdtaylor18]

What Boost controller do you have?

[Prof]

What Boost controller do you have?

It\'s a Profec B spec II - the digital one.  It\'s not too bad once you get the hang of some of the settings - which appear a bit weird to start with.
 
You can adjust the boost value - which is the duty cycle, but then you have gain, set gain - which is actually the point at which the wastegate will be allowed to start opening, then the warning limit and a percentage the boost is dialled back when it hits the warning limit.
 
I noticed from the dyno readings that boost was coming on quite late, and tailing off evenly after hitting max boost.  I changed the start boost to 6.5 psi, upped the gain to about 45%, and reduced the limit cut to 10% rather than the more agressive 20% I had set before.  The result is boost builds more quickly, and stabilizes very quickly at maximum, and holds till past red line - which makes for a massive change in the drive  There is still more adjustment in it, but at the moment I\'m not getting boost spikes - so quite happy with the change.

[Prof]

Not done an update in a while - been at the soldering iron again - made a little box with 4 resistors in it - pretending to be injectors
 
So test fitted the eManage yet again - checked the voltages - and being a numpty I\'ve got my air and water temps switch round - might explain some of the odd readings from last time.  Anyways - reset the stock ECU\'s error codes and switched on the eManage - checked me voltages - all seemed ok - and then started the car - seemed to be behaving this time - let it warm up - checked the water temp was going up with my displayed reading - it is - but there is a few degrees difference - I can live with that - coz I\'m not sure which is inaccurate - my display or the eManage or both - but 4 degrees I can live with.  Air temp seems to be non linear with the eManage, but they seem to converge around the high 40\'s and into the 50\'s - most of that heat is the transmitted heat from the engne - not the actual air temp - wil try and lag that bit of intake piping and see if it gives more meaningful readings.
 
Anyway - here is a vid of the car after a run - seemed to drive normal enough, but the injectors and ingition timing are untouched but routed through the emanage...
 

 
As you can see from the vid - the wiring is a mess and needs tidying :Giggle:spank
 
Next steps will be to fit the larger secondary injectors, the Volvo electric rad fan, bigger intercooler and compression tube and then the OMP adaptor and finally water injection.  Not sure how much will be done for Rotorstock.
 
Also got a roof to be fitted Tuesday

[grinder]

loving the wiring thats great work

i still like the little LCD with the water/air temp - very very very coooool

[Prof]

Tidied it up a bit - got the cover back on it all - and it still runs :Thumbs-up
 
So today is a bummer - getting rained off  I got the wiring down the side of the car for the WI, and the water hose, so both ends of the WI system still need to be done.  Still have to make the WI controller, but it shouldn\'t take too long to do that.  It\'s going to be a Basic Stamp, with some MOSFETS for the pump control.  Idea is to have some failsafe stuff built into it to shutdown the WI pump, solenoid and cut boost when there is either a fault or no water left.

[Prof]

Oops - having laptop issues today - double post

[mpk490p]

nice Dave glad you got most of it sorted, were is your water temp gauge for your custom display or are you just using the stock one for the ECU?

Mark

[Prof]

I\'ve still got the stock water temp gauge, but the little gizmo I built displays both water temp and Engine Air temp in digital form.
 
Been driving it for a couple of days, and it seems that the eManage has thrown the timing out a little - although fuelling is much closer to what it was without the eManage....  ...little steps...
 
I\'m still getting an AFM code 08 - which means the signal from the eManage is going outside the expected norms at some point - although the table is all set with 0\'s (no change to signal), yet when I measure in/out signals at the connectors they seem to track exactly.  The problem is it could be some dynamic state thing - or during startup/shutdown when the voltages are settling - although both the stock ECU and eManage are fed from the same 12v feed.  It seems the 08 code is memorized - so could just be a momentary occurrence - it says basic fuelling and timing used - but the car seems to be behaving as if only the timing is out - lacking some acceleration and go - but idling is spot on and AFR\'s look good if a little rich at idle (walbro pump ).  Hunting around for info on rx7club, but not really getting anywhere.  I also got a 13 code - which is the stock MAP sensor - that is also routed through the eManage - so my theory about startup (or shutdown) voltages may well be correct - not so worried about that code, as it has no lasting effect on the car, and that sensor is only used upto stock boost limit (which is fine).  A 3 BAR sensor will look after boost reading beyond that, as I will build an FCD table to \'contain\' the stock ECU into a known area for which it has tables and control.
 
I may end up just routing the AFM signal back to the stock ECU, and piggy back off it for the eManage - I was going to eliminate or replace the AFM, but I\'ve no need to do that at the moment, and therefore that adjustment map isn\'t needed, as I can alter timing and injectors from their own maps and leave the stock AFM signal well alone.  It\'s a simple mod to the loom - about 30 mins work, so going to have to try it.
 
Also need to get myself a timing gun, and make sure timing and TPS are adjusted correctly (although idle seems ok).

[mpk490p]

i have a timing gun your welcome to borrow Dave (can bring it to RS)
i ment have you put any additional sensors in for your water temp or are you using the stock sensor (sorry it didn\'t make much sense!)

Mark

[Prof]

i have a timing gun your welcome to borrow Dave (can bring it to RS)
i ment have you put any additional sensors in for your water temp or are you using the stock sensor (sorry it didn\'t make much sense!)
 
Mark

No worries - I really need a timing gun anyhoo .
 
I\'m still using the stock sensor - just behind the water pump - it\'s not a bad place to take off a reading, and the eManage will be running the electric rad fan off that as well - relay works - I\'ve tested that, and there is also a failsafe switch on the top rad pipe - that operates another relay in parallel to the eManage controlled one, and will turn on the fan if it gets too hot.  It does mean that I can tune the on and off temps for the electric fan and thus keep the temps within quite a narrow band.  I have to say that since making the temp display, the stock rad and fan do a pretty good job of things - if it wasn\'t for the asthetic aspects and increased room I probably wouldn\'t be so tempted to switch

[mpk490p]

ive found switching the fan on around 90 - 92 is best, has does the stock set up compare to that?

Mark