My FC won\'t stop overheating, help!

Started by James H, June 03, 2008, 10:48:56 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 0 Guests are viewing this topic.

James H

Been having problems with my FC for a good month now, she just keeps over heating!! I have modified the front abit to get as much cold air in the engine as pos which has helped but it is when im not moving fast & sitting in traffic, the temp shot\'s up, ADD COOLANT alarm has a go & the radiator blows out hot air, resovouir fills up with water then boils up cause of the hot air being shot out of the radiator. I THINK it is down to the clutch on my fan, so took off the standard fan & put on a electric fan I had laying around but it is only a 10" fan so pretty sure it is not up to the job & is still overheating. Anyone had this them selves or got any advice to sort this problem or get to the bottom of it, thanks James??

antnicuk

sounds like it could be a water seal
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!


James H

Interesting i\'ll have a good look any idea where to be looking on my fc, she is a n/a, thanks?

BlitzBoy

water seals are in the inside of the engine, you cant see them, you will need the engine strip down to replace them, as you are in Portsmouth take it down to REWORX in Hilsea they can do a pressure test on the engine and tell you if ya water seals are fubared or not
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

James H

Ok thanks for letting me know, due to go there on Saturday sa will get that done, thanks for your help!

grinder

you could do the champage test - that might give you an indication ?


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

James H


Prof

Quote from: grinder;504800you could do the champage test - that might give you an indication ?

Thought that only worked on FD\'s - as the FC doesn\'t have an AST tank.
 
There is some chemical test they can do on your coolant to see if combustion products are getting in to it - they take a sample of coolant out - stick some reagent in it and wait for a colour change.
 
A compression test should reveal it though, and from your symptoms - it could be the engine pressurising the coolant system through a leak.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


James H

I see, well sure all will come clear on Sat when im at RE:Worx, heres a question is there any gain from adjusting the timing on my fc??

nikp

Quote from: James H;504808I see, well sure all will come clear on Sat when im at RE:Worx, heres a question is there any gain from adjusting the timing on my fc??

You\'re looking at adjusting your timing before having figured oiut why it\'s overheating!?

Anyway, to answer: possibly. But only if you know what you\'re doing. And since you didn\'t know what water seals are, i\'d stay well clear if I were you.

James H

No course not just getting a list of things i may get them to do, for when i go to RE:Worx but then again they prob the answer to that.

grinder

im sure you can do it on a FC

thats the advice i got many moons ago

1 - make sure car is cold
2 - remove rad cap
3 - start car and see if lots of bubbles appear - if so it could be a sign of the water seal failure


why would you need the AST for this to work ??


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

pdtaylor18

That test Stu is the same test you can do on almost any engine.  Plenty of other things you can do that dont cost anything:
1.   Flush the coolant system and make sure a good flow from rad top and bottom
take out the thermostat or replace it. Make sure your rad has good flow.
2.   Make sure that your fan is the right way round, some fans are designed to suck air through the rad, make sure your fairly small fan is the right way round in its operation. I used to rally a Metro GTI in my Germany days and I wired the fan wrong to reverse the flow, overheated all the time until I figured what an idiot I was.
3.   Compression test, maybe the only really accurate way to tell a water seal or tip problem.
4.   Did this just happen? dont b fooled by the fact that changing from stock to electric fan has not changed the fault, it might just be you fitted a fan way to small and without the correct ducting lots of valuable cooling air is wasted.
1990 TII Cab JDM- Lambo Orange- HKS GT3037 turbo,Apexi PFC and datalogit,Greddy FMIC,Trust coilovers,18" Antera 10J 265 rears, 18" 8.5J 235 fronts

Paypal: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com
Email: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com

Pete[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

James H

Well went to RE:Worx & they comfirmed it.... the water seal is gone so time for a rebuild, happy days... anybody got a 13B engine for sale lol!?!