Which rx7????

Started by Lol, May 29, 2008, 08:21:14 PM

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danny_m94

in the 3rd gen theres only a 1.3 twin turbo

mpk490p

Gen 1 12a NA engine
Gen 2 13b NA and 13b single turbo
Gen 3 13b twin tubo

RedRummy

#17
have a look at the buyers guide on here... loads of info on models, spec etc..

have a look at the General Queries / Hints and Tips on purchasing a rotary forum

Loads of tips on there as well as what you\'ll want to do with it when you get it to make it 300bhp++ atw

good luck!  and keep reading!
"Life moves pretty fast....
If you don\'t stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it..."
Ferris Beuller, 1986.

deanflowers

you should easily get something with a fresh build and suble mods for that money as i\'m struggling to sell mine with that spec

sadgoth

right in a nutshell the 3 generations are as follows:

Gen 1 1979-1985 (FB3S) 12a engine (just below 1200cc - shows up as a 2.3l as far as tax is concerned) all were n/a except a very limited number of 12aT turbo cars (never officially imported into the UK) and a special edition Janspeed turbo model.

Gen 2 1985-1992 (FC3S) 13b engine (1308cc comes up as a 2.4 for tax) the Gen 2 came in n/a from 85 to 88 in the UK and in single turbo form from 89-92 the turbo is known as the Turbo II. In other markets the n/a was produced alongside the Turbo models. The n/a produced circa 146bhp and the turbo II 202bhp

Gen 3 1992-2002 (FD3S) 13bREW twin turbo engine (1308cc shows as a 2.6l) the UK cars were available from 92 - 95 producing 239bhp as there was a pre-cat in the exhaust making the exhuast system far more restrictive as well as the fact that UK fuel is lower octane rated than JDM. JDM cars came in a variety of models and specs (there is a whole thread about this) but in a nutshell the early cars produced 255bhp, then 265bhp and the late models produced 280bhp.

Gen 1 cars can run for more than 120k before needing a rebuild
Gen 2 n/a cars are similar to the Gen 1s for engine life
Gen 2 Turbo II cars will last up to about 100k before rebuild
Gen 3 cars on average seem to have an engine life of about 60k (some have managed far more)
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

danny_m94

i bow down to you and your rotary knowledge:D

20B_boy

Quote from: ro284;503543For me it would have to be an FD, 3rd gen, Pref a UK model
I would totally advise against buying a UK car, or atleast make sure you get it checked over by a specialist (you should do this with any FD youre thinking of buying). About 80% of the UK cars I\'ve seen on the ramps have had what I would call extensive body corrosion, I\'ve seen several cars that have been scrapped due to rust.

You *really* (REALLY) need to take your time finding a good RX7 Laura, do not buy anything without some one who knows a lot about them looking it over - there are just too many money pits in the UK to fall into buying.
R.

sadgoth

I agree with Rich, there is a very good FC (Trex\'s) up for sale, he\'s spent over £15k on it and it is probably the most sorted FC and one of the most sorted RX7s out there at the moment
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

Lol

Quote from: 20B_boy;503694I would totally advise against buying a UK car, or atleast make sure you get it checked over by a specialist (you should do this with any FD youre thinking of buying). About 80% of the UK cars I\'ve seen on the ramps have had what I would call extensive body corrosion, I\'ve seen several cars that have been scrapped due to rust.
 
You *really* (REALLY) need to take your time finding a good RX7 Laura, do not buy anything without some one who knows a lot about them looking it over - there are just too many money pits in the UK to fall into buying.

I\'m gettin an import- gonna get one from jurgen. He knows loads bout them aswel :Thumbsup!

trotter

Have a good look round the site Laura, you\'ll find tons of useful information. Best bit of advice I can give to you is when you finally go for one BUY WITH YOUR HEAD NOT WITH YOUR HEART!!!

Sounds daft but it\'s very easy to fall in love with one, almost to the point of not paying attention to the mechanical condition and ending up with a really expensive repair bill - I know this from expereince!!

Like I said, use the search function at the top of the page, 99.9% of your questions will already have been discussed somewhere, for the rest ask away with as many q\'s as you want, there\'s loadsa helpful lads (and the occasional lassie ;) ) on here!!

HTH

T ;)
Work hard, play hard house :D

Lol

Quote from: trotter;503724Have a good look round the site Laura, you\'ll find tons of useful information. Best bit of advice I can give to you is when you finally go for one BUY WITH YOUR HEAD NOT WITH YOUR HEART!!!
 
Sounds daft but it\'s very easy to fall in love with one, almost to the point of not paying attention to the mechanical condition and ending up with a really expensive repair bill - I know this from expereince!!
 
Like I said, use the search function at the top of the page, 99.9% of your questions will already have been discussed somewhere, for the rest ask away with as many q\'s as you want, there\'s loadsa helpful lads (and the occasional lassie ;) ) on here!!
 
HTH
 
T ;)

Thanks 4 the advice- much appreciated ;)

20B_boy

Quote from: Lol;503722I\'m gettin an import- gonna get one from jurgen. He knows loads bout them aswel :Thumbsup!
Just be aware that buying a good/expensive car from auction, doesnt mean it will necessarily be trouble free. From experience, theres no way you can determine what overal condition the car is in from an auction sheet or even an inspection done by some one at the auction before bidding. Personally, with the amount of FDs in the UK now, I would buy here so u can get it checked out by a professional rotary guy and buy with as much confidence as possible.
R.

logicalChimp

As another tip, check the \'for sale\' forum here (although i have a feeling it is paid-member-only - maybe you can get temporary access, or someone to copy the details out for you :D)

Also, check the various rotary specialists (Jimmies, Rotechniks, Re:Wrox, Haywards, and several others) - they quite often have (or know of) cars that people want to sell - and they will be able to tell you the exact mechanical state, as well as some of the history (probably).  It\'s probably about as \'low risk\' as you can get buying an RX7...  (wish i\'d done that myself, rather than buying private and getting a money-pit :2Rolleyes)

Whatever you end up with - best of luck - they are fantastically fun cars :D

Bobbit

get yourself down to the SOL meet in June with JNE, i\'m going so can give you a good look around mine if you like? It\'s not for sale but will give you a fair idea of what to expect
:Laugh LOL


                                       

D2BBA

Hi Laura,

There are a few of us heading down to the next Jap NorthEast meet at the Stadium of Light in Sunderland.

Get yourself down and you can have a look at an RX close up and we can try to answer your questions! :)

Chris
RX7 FD3S RE Amemiya AC037 - Gone but not forgotton!  

Porsche 911 (964) C4 - Aircooled weekend fun!

Golf GT 170 (MKV) - Das verks mobile!