Boost problems (trouble shooting and simplification)

Started by allstaruk, May 17, 2008, 05:07:04 PM

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allstaruk

Hi Guys,

After spending a year with my car off the road its time to get it finished, everything bay wise is in, I\'ve had it mapped which highlighted a few ingition problems, I\'ve fitted and ignition amp, done plugs and lead and got it all sorted.

The thing is i have a boost problem, sometimes it pulls like a demon, but occasionally, nothing. Its 50/50 to whether it works or not, I\'m lost to what is causing it i thought it wasn\'t holding vacumm as sometimes comming off the clutch letting it build vacuum back and flooring it would cure it but not all the time.

I want to stay seqential as I prefer it but I want it to work, now I have done a fair bit of work to the car, and I want to dramatically simplfy the system so I can make trouble shooting this easier.

Is there a way of sorting out the turbo sytem so it still works sequentially and property or where do I start fixing this problem.

Alan

marco

There is the turbo simplification here  that I used, note that it removes all the emission solenoids whilst leaving the sequential sytem working normally. The ones that remain are orientated the opposite way on the diagram to the car so it isn\'t as easy to follow as first looks! Also it completely ignores the solenoid to the FPR. This is used for hot starting only, I removed the solenoid and just connected the FPR to the backward facing nipple on the LIM, it works fine. If you have a boost controller you may be able to remove both the WG and pre control solenoids by teeing the actuators together and letting the boost controller regualte them both, but I am still researching into that so don\'t quote me. I have also teed the omp nozzle breather pipes together and just put a filter on it rather than connect it to the inlet of the turbo (you can see it as the two turquoise lines on the diagram that seem to go nowhere on the block)-this may or may not be a good idea, maybe someone else would like to comment. Whilst I was doing it I also removed the secondary throttle plates, automatic choke on the TB and the throttle dashpot. I read that you needed to wire the automatic choke to the correct place otherwise it would always idle high, as it thinks the engine is always cold. when I did it, it was pretty obvious that you could just remove the whole assembly rather than just bypassing it, and it would work fine, so thats what I did. Have no trouble with  cold starts or anything, maybe just need to turn it over a couple more times on the starter and dab the throttle, but nothing else (so just like starting a classic car!). it makes removing the TB a lot easier.

The only other thing you might consider whilst doing this is consider new solenoids for peace of mind, I spoke to lightning dynamics and they do an uprated set, but is a bit of a lead time, and the price is quite high. However I don\'t know how many solenoids were in that price, I guess I should go back and ask!

Marco

allstaruk

Right thats what I\'m talking about, I just want a basic system that works so I don\'t have to bugger about everytime it stops working.

I have already removed the acv, the double throttle and most of the emmissions stuff, I have a nismo fpr on there anyway too.

allstaruk

Right before I get involved in this, does it work!!!

And also where am I\' going to get the connectos to T off for

Bobbit

When you removed the ACV did you just blank it off or did you add the filter thingie it shows on Rob\'s site? And does the double throttle removal make much difference? Sorry to hijack but i\'ve considered doing these jobs for a while and never made my mind up either way.

Thanks

Rob
:Laugh LOL


                                       

marco

yup it works, and as for the required t pieces, i snipped the bass pipework to just give me what was required. although when i redo mine again (looking to relocate some new solenoids) i will prob get some new connectors- cant be either that expensive or hard to get?as i say, i have done everything i outlined, apart from using the boost controller for the wg and pre-control, and so i cannot say how effective it is.
btw, in contact with a guy in the US r.e. uprated solenoids, if you are interested then pm me and i will send you details!

marco

forgive me, the ACV it the big block on the LIM that connects to the airpump and the exhaust right? i blanked it off. you can just disconnect it, but that would be a bit budget! as for the double throttle, i dunno, the car felt different after i did it, but i had done few things at once. put it this way, it isn\'t going to do any harm, and although the improvement is minimal, with a car such as ours we can only improve in small steps, so whilst a lot of mods wont show improvement in isolation, cumulatively it helps! You can also port the uim once you have removed it, although i didn\'t do it at the time, as i didn\'t have the tools.

allstaruk

I could be interested in some uprated solenoids, can\'t pm as I\'m not a full member anymore.

marco

ah yes, you a member of any other uk based internet forums related to FDs?;)

allstaruk

I most certainly am, same username too,

Also what vac line is everyone using, I bought some samco last year when was doing a few bits then I got some off reworx and the reworx stuff was a lot better but I don\'t know what itwas.

marco

just some cheap stuff i got off clive, works fine! i am not one who goes for flashy engine bays so as long as it does the job i dont really mind.

allstaruk

I\'m not one for being that flashy, they were both plain black just the stuff I got from reworx  had a lot thinker wall to it and just seemed a lot stronger.

marco

speak to clive, the stuff was black and pretty thick (with fiber re-enforcement IIRC) and plenty flexible.

allstaruk

Cool i\'ll see what I can get hold off, gonna get the rats nest out tomorrow evening then I can test all the solenoids, get the hose etc ordered and then next sat make it work

Bobbit

Have you seen my very "cough cough" through and practical write up on how to check the solenoids! I found it fairly easy to check them, just make sure that you use a higher pressure than your car is running. Also when you change the rats nest make sure you dont do what i did and disconnect 2 pipes, go for a cuppa and then forget which way round the 2 pipes connect. Doh!
:Laugh LOL