Help needed please !!

Started by dturpin, April 05, 2008, 05:22:35 PM

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dturpin

Hi everyone I am after some help am having problems with my FD.  I have juts swapped my engine for one out of my last FD that I had converted to single turbo, as the water seal went on the engine in the car.
I got the engine in ok and it started up first time, which I was quite suprised at as the engine had been sat in my shed for over a year.
Everything was going fine it got up to temp everything bled up fine, there was nothing showing in alarm on the commander.  So I tried to take it out for a drive and it wouldnt rev past 3000, would saart to missfire and felt like it was going to cut out.
So far I have changed the plugs, checked all the fuel lines had fuel etc, and it still wouldnt rev.  I thought it could be my seconday injectors had ceased shut as they were sat for so long so I got them ultrasonic cleaned and they said they were ok when I picked them up.
I fitted it all back in and de-flooded it as I spilt some fuel in the rotors when taking the fuel rail off, and now the car won\'t start, it turns over and sometimes try\'s to start but won\'t quite manage it.  
I have changed the battery, made no difference, have de-flooded it loads of times as I am flooding it from trying to start it.  
I am after ANY advice, things to check, as I have come to the end of my knowledge on what to do.

List of mods
Garrett HKS T04e single turbo
HKS wastegate
1600cc secondary injectors and rail (brought from MRP)
FSE rising rate fuel pressure regulator
Greddy FMIC
Apexi BNR33 in tank fuel pump
Apexi Power FC and commander
HKS SSQV BOV
Blitz SUS air filter
Street Ported secondary and exhaust
Dragon under drive pulley’s, air pump removed
Air con pump removed
Greddy Profec 2 boost controller
Greddy turbo timer
HKS twin plate clutch

Grizzly

First guestion did you use the same power fc? and is it still set up for the 1600\'s

dturpin

yea I used the same power fc I assume it is still set up I havent touched it since i took it off the old car, thet dont reset or anything do they?  It still says 1600cc in the settings on the commander.

dturpin

Also forgot to mention, when I switch the ignition on the fuel pressure goes up to about 40psi on the guage on the FPR, and when I switch the ignition off it drops off to zero, I dont know if this is correct.  Should the pressure maintian in the system when the ignition is off?

Grizzly

#4
No my Fuel pressure drops off when the Ign is off.

Are you 100% all the grounds/Plugs are back in the correct places? No Plug leads or Injector plugs the wrong way round??

I was also thinking it sounds like a collapsed cat? could there be anything stuffed in the exhaust?? May sound daft but the common one is stuffing a rag in the down pipe then forgetting to remove it when building it up??

Also did it rev smoothly up to 3k and idle ok? or did it miss all the way to 3k?

dturpin

Im sure I took all the rags out but am gonna double check now, will also check the grounds as havent checked them yet, it has a dragon de-cat on it which didn\'t rattle or anything when I put it on.

Grizzly

Not to sound like the Profit of doom or anything but have you tried a curb side Comp test? just too make sure you don\'t have any Stuck seals etc with it being stood for so long.

dturpin

Right I finally got her started today after removing all plugs, egi and fuel pump relay, then turned her over for a fair while to make sure I got all the excess fuel out, then heated the plugs up a bit on the gas hob after cleaning them put it all back together and she started (with a lot of smoke).  I left her running until she was up to temp then tried revving her, but still won\'t go past 3000rpm, starts to misfire, so I am once again stuck with what to do next.
Grizzly - how do you perform a road side compression test? I have been trying to find someone local to me with a rotary compression tester but not having any luck.

Grizzly

First off take the egi fuse out, then remove the top plug of the rear rotor. Turn it over on the key.

You should hear even Pshss noises (take a mental note of the Volume and spacing) when you have done the rear replace plug and do the FT rotor. much the same nice even Pshhh noises.

If you have a Compression problem you will be able to here it as a change in volume or uneven or larger spacing in the Psssh noises.

Its simple but works quite well to gauge if you have a stuck/damaged seal.

Grizzly

Have you tried the diagnostics screen on the PFC? i think its quite basic but will tell you if a sensor is acting up?

dturpin

I will give the compression test a go tomorrow and see what it sounds like.  There are no sensors highlighted on the PFC.  Would a sensor show in fault if I had got it plugged in to the wrong connector?
Was also wondering if the car was over or under fuelling could this cause the misfire?

clive

Hi Dave,

Not sure if you got my e-mail but it could be this/

If you have a look you will find that the secondary elec plugs will fit the primary injectors  and vice versa so do you have the wiring the wrong way around????
All the best Clive

dturpin

Hi Clive,
Did get the email thanks, im sure the plugs are on the correct injectors as I had to put the connectors onto the engine loom so I marked them up before I disconnected them.
Anymore advice would be greatly appreciated need to try anything I can before I resort to trailering it somewhere!

Carl

It could be on default.
The cause could be s number of things,try ressetting the ecu by taking the negative battery terminal off and then foot on brake pedal for 20 seconds,then reconnect and start engine.
Are you able to drive the over 3000rpm on very light throttle?
Regards
Carl

BlitzBoy

Bet you the vacuum hose has not been reconnected to the Map sensor, sounds like the classic symptoms of it overfuelling and not reving past 3krpm
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

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