Well she\'s started but....theres another problem

Started by fesuvious, March 30, 2008, 07:09:46 PM

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fesuvious

Righty, so, she\'s started, and she sounds ok.

Went for a drive so she could clear her throat and get up to full temp for a bit and have now discovered another problem.

Anymore than @1/3 throttle and she cuts out. She\'ll rev up ok on a very gentle throttle but as soon as you open the tap even slightly the power cuts???

Its quite a violent cut too, almost like if you stall.

So, the facts:
The old plugs were majorly sooted up
The fuel economy has been awful
She flooded for the first time ever and seemingly of her own accord
Have drained all the oil and could swear it smells a little of petrol..but then she was very very flooded.

And now the engine virtually stalls on any more than part throttle.

Im REALLY hoping someone can point me in the right direction on this.

Help !

If this car was running the original Japanese ECU......and had never been re-mapped for UK fuel...????

chopper2k22

if its stock ecu then as long as its run on optimax it should be fine, what year is the car as iv still got my stock ecu if you wanted to try it

fesuvious

#2
Hi, its a 94.
Im not certain at all of the history.

Could the ECU be causing the problem?? Its running on Optimax anyway.

The ECU has written on it the following:

       N3A7

        EGI
N3A7 18 881C

079700 - 3879
DENSO

Does this mean anything?

If you think it could be worth trying a stock ECU then I just might take you up on that kind offer...........

p.s where do you recommend to buy service items?

noyzboy

It could be in "limp home" mode.
Disconnect the battery and press the brake pedal for 20 seconds,
 Reconnect battery. Might clear it short term.
If it clears it and then it comes back, you have a fault and you need to get the fault code from the ECU. Search on here for that. Some recent good info posted recently.

Martin H

pdtaylor18

could be the ECU but then to totally cut all fuel might even be a throttle sensor, make sure its set up right.  I have had similar problems on other cars and the fuel pump was at fault so unless you have a fuel pressure gauge be hard to spot that without trying bits one at a time.
Does the car rev freely at a stand still? or does it cut when the load is on ?
1990 TII Cab JDM- Lambo Orange- HKS GT3037 turbo,Apexi PFC and datalogit,Greddy FMIC,Trust coilovers,18" Antera 10J 265 rears, 18" 8.5J 235 fronts

Paypal: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com
Email: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com

Pete[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

fesuvious

It seemed to rev freely at standstill.

Crikey, so theres quite a few possible faults !

I have her up in the air at present. I figured that I give her the full service she undoubtably needs. Can any of you guys recommend a particular outlet for the parts? Especially the drivebelts...

Also, as Im completely new to RX7\'s tell me the location of the fuel filter and fuel pump?

Im assuming that a decent service on this should be
Oil + filter
Plugs
Air Filters
Fuel Filter

Anything else?

(We\'ve only had the car 4 weeks and Iv been busy on a jag suspension rebuild so yesterday was the first chance to get the car into the garage and plan to work on her)

And then I need to find this fault!!!!!!!!!!!

shogun no 1

I had a similar problem with my car violently cutting out under acceleration. My problem turned out to be a dodgy Main Fuse. Worth a check i suppose.

pdtaylor18

fuel filter is above the diff and is a complete AR%e to do, some even relocate it cos its that much of a pain. I have one surplus at the moment (FC\'s now !!) I\'ll let you have it below any ebay prices. Its brand new. The fuel pump is in the fuel tank and you get to it from inside the boot area, its on the LH side. Need a good philips screwdriver for the screws as they get full of crap and can corrode a bit.  
oil filter get a good quality one, i get mine from mazda and is just as cheap as a motor factors. The plugs are not readily available off the shelf but plenty of places on ebay.  Oil 10w30 mineral and the air filter if its standard are again ebay but go for a K&N or something and let it breath, worth the extra few quid.  Change the antifreeze if its not been done, worth doing as it needs to have good anti-corrosive properties as these lumps do corrode inside if the mixture is poor.  I know its extreme but I changed my brake fluid every year regardless as these engine do get very hot which heats the fluid and because you have little engine breaking compared to a piston lump you use the brakes a hell of a lot more but depends how you drive it and if you do track days etc.
1990 TII Cab JDM- Lambo Orange- HKS GT3037 turbo,Apexi PFC and datalogit,Greddy FMIC,Trust coilovers,18" Antera 10J 265 rears, 18" 8.5J 235 fronts

Paypal: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com
Email: pdtaylor18@hotmail.com

Pete[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

strange_days_uk


Martiny