desperation

Started by exup13, May 19, 2004, 09:38:26 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 0 Guests are viewing this topic.

exup13

I have a gen 2(88) and having problems with what i think is an air flow problem.the car is currently at a garage and has been for over a month now.it starts fine and sounds gorgeous but when i try to set off ,the revs drop and it coughs a bit ,there doesnt seem to be any power and i have to take my foot off the accelerator to allow the tick over to build back up.Have tried a new air flow meter and that didnt work ,it has new plugs,filters,battery and belts.i noticed when i first bought the car(6 weeks ago)the air pump belt was missing so i put one on but it still hasnt cured it,could it be the pump itself and thats why the previous owner ran it without the belt on. i have noticed a warning sign on the pump stating that the pump should never be removed,is this so.please can anyone help shed some light on these matters as im desperate to drive the car(only managed to take it half mile to the garage!)and the mechanic has run out of ideas!!!. thanks-EXUP13.

Paul-Tll

Blocked cats maybe?
You can remove the air pump if the cats are off bit you should have a twin pulley on the Alt. and two belts to stop the water pump slipping (you don\'t want to overheat)
If it has cats on and split air pipe with the air pump off i\'m
sure it will damage them and poss block em up a bit.

Then again It could be technical, have you had a comp. test done
using oil or water??
The- \'RED KNIGHT\'-sport

92 R1

exup13

cheers 4 the reply paul,
will try the cats this weekend.
what does the comp test involve (with oil,water).is it a specialist job(expensive!)

Paul-Tll

Sorry meant is it using oil or water, compression test best done
by a specialist really and they could then sort the trouble anyway?

May be you could whack a hole through the pre cat and  main cat with a bar.

Actually I have a pair of cats in good nic sat in the garage,
done about 58k only and look prety good and were fine on the car
(was a TII though)

Paul..
The- \'RED KNIGHT\'-sport

92 R1

grinder

going on on a really thin limb here - is the fuel pump working OK ?

Just side tracking here - Paul , do you have the pre-cat ??

and could i just smash all the inside of the cat out to make it a de-cat ?? ( main cat already gone - just need to sort out the front one )

exup13 - again just out of interest - is the car blue ??

just that i had a 1988 2nd gen - and im wondering where it went to after i sold it  - i last saw it in wigan - so it could have made it your way :)


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

Paul-Tll

#5
In theory you could knock a hole through the lot, but you\'ll
end up with boost spikes and creep, prob. end up making more boost than your stock internal wastegate can keep up with,and
run very lean.
Tim used to sell d.pipe with abox that was a beter alternative.
Paul..

P.S. yes main and pre cat for sale.
The- \'RED KNIGHT\'-sport

92 R1

grinder

so by removing both cats - what do you need to do to keep it safe then ?


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

Sean

I believe a fuel cut defender is in order here

(please correct me if I\'m wrong someone)

grinder

dont think so , all that does it fool the ECU into NOT stopping fuel to the back rotor at 8.9psi ( or summat like that )


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

Sean

Which in turn, preventsthe rear rotor from running lean and causing detonation, exactly!

Thats how I understood it anyway:confused:

grinder

not sure matey

need some expertise here ( and its not me ! )


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

88GT-R

Is that me??

Hi,
FCD...If you are going to run an FCD, you need one which clamps the voltage at about 3.8 volts. Not too sure on the exact figure. This will be set so that the FCD clamps the voltage just below the point where the ECU would see overboost and cut fuel to the rear rotor. Its all well and good.. problem being is that the ECU will not put in any more fuel, or adjust the timing for the increased pressure and airflow available to the engine.

But before you even get to the FCD stage, you need to ensure that the pump is upgraded(including wireing), and that you have some way of limiting boost creep, especially with an open exhaust, open filter and a cold day.

Airpump... If you are fitting a larger exhaust and ditching the cats, there is no need for the air pump and can be removed along with the other emissions crap. You don´t need a twin pully, but you can fit an extra belt through where the airpump belt was on the waterpump pulley, and the crank pulley. Confusing?? Simple when you see it. Or you can simply remove the viscous fan, and fit an electric fan. Which means that there is little drag on the pulley system to make the belts slip.

And getting back to the original problem... It sounds to me most likely to be a vaccum leak after the airflow meter... which could be anywhere. Do you have a blow off valve? Check the vaccum pipes above the Turbo, on the upper inlet manifold. Remove your Turbo Inlet Duct, and check for cracks...especially underneath and where it joins the turbo. Obviously this is on the Turbo II, and i don´t know what car you have. If not, the above said pipe is between the air filter and the inlet manifold.

I hope you find the problem, and can come to Rotorstock.
Regards,

John
88 GT-R

exup13

cheers john,
have took on board your suggestions,although my car is a non turbo(unfortunatley).seems to me that there are many possibilities,but im sure its something and nothing! just a case of pinpointing it.