Won\'t start!!

Started by Carolgees, October 30, 2007, 05:09:05 PM

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Carolgees

Agreed.

I didn\'t think about it until my brother just mentioned it, but it\'s getting colder too isn\'t it? So 7s and 9s might be better over winter anyway. I\'ve used Iridium plugs in my turbo car with good results, but it might actually run better on standard plugs considering it\'s only got an exhaust on it after all?

elford_tim

Use standard plugs - AFAIR some people reported problems with Iridium plugs, plus you\'d chuck at lot of money at plugs for an engine that doesn\'t necessarily run very well anyway.

I\'d splash out for regular plugs and keep the wallet shut otherwise.
1989 Turbo II convertible in Essex Stilletto white

grinder

just keep your spending to a minimum and put stock plugs in it

if that doesnt work - then tow start it - that should work every time :D

this is why a fuel cut switch can be a good idea

and thinking about you having 10\'s - i have a TII and that has 9\'s in it

wouldnt start on the 10\'s that it came with regardless of how many times i cleaned them - dropped some 9\'s in and it ran like a dream :D

best idea now is

1 - pull the EGI fuse
2 - remove all the plugs
3 - crank a few times to clear off the excess petrol
4 - put 9\'s in
5 - put EGI fuse back in
6 - start the car - dont touch anything though - just crank it
7 - crank in short bursts ( max of 10 secs )
8 - if that doesnt work
9 - pull the plugs and check to see if they are really wet
10 - retry all of the above again
11 - could be worth checking the leads - so try a plug in each lead and rest it against the bonnet stay - get someone to crank it and make sure that they are at least sparking
12 - if everything looks like it should work - tow start the thing :D


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RemarkLima

I\'ve not found 7\'s to be that much more than 9\'s TBH... And 7\'s and 9\'s made my car run so much better and start on the button every time, hot cold, just moved or not. Unless the engine is modded why change what the spec is from Mazda?

Check on here: //www.sparkplugs.co.uk

They have BUR7EQP for £8.99 per plug and BUR9EQP for £8.37 per plug... Didn\'t think that was a bad price???
Montego Blue 94 R2 FD3S... Bling not included.

shaunwil

Isn\'t there a trick with putting a little drop of oil in through the spark plug hole to try and improve the compression to try and give it a chance to start.

New plugs will help alot and shouldn\'t cost too much.

Are you seeing a spark on both of the plugs ?? I ran my 12a on petrol with only the trailing plug firing. Not sure for how long either. Worked on the 13b with the gas too until it went to be tuned !

Shaun
1994 White FD with A-spec GT3574R - 358bhp at the hubs at 0.9bar :3gears-lh
2003 Mondeo 2lt 130ps Diesel Estate Daily :driving

Carolgees

#20
HAHAHA!!!!! How do I change my user name to "Muppet" ?.. :rollin

I\'ve got it going! Wahey!

Basically, I sat down tonight for my usual internet-based FC3S \'research\' - logged onto //www.rx7.com and flicked through the articles. Turns out I was doing the fuse thingy wrong!

Two things:
1) I was removing the second-in fuse (EGi injectors or something similar), NOT the end one!

2) I wasn\'t planting the throttle when I turned it over with the fuse removed.

Sooo... after several attempts it started twice with the fuse out (died after a second or two obviously), and I eventually got it started with the fuse back in. It ran REALLY lumpy so I took it out for a gentle drive on some long straights, trying to warm it up gently. Once it was up to temp I redlined it a couple of times and hey presto - it\'s running better than ever! :3gears-rh

Weird thing is, I removed the second-in (blue) fuse when it wouldn\'t start at Brands and it worked that day. Am I right in thinking the blue is for the injectors? If so, by removing that I\'ve been filling the fuel lines with loads of petrol as the pump\'s still be working, the injectors just haven\'t been firing any of it in? Hence when I removed the fuel line it literally squirted water out under pressure. Probably can\'t have been great for the pump. With the right fuse pulled, the injectors fired in all of the petrol remaining in the lines, but no more as the pump wasn\'t working. Hence with the fuse back in, it initially ignites what\'s already in the combustion chambers. Phew!

Thanks to everyone for your help on here.

:cheers

I might look into going \'back\' to 7s and 9s anyway, but jeez I\'d forgotten how much fun it is to drive!! I was using my AW11 MR2 as a daily driver directly before this and people rave "it is/was the best handling car", but I genuinely think the FC is the best handling car I\'ve ever owned.

For turning a simple problem into a big one, feel free to call me a tw@t here: VVV

Martiny

Ok, well done on getting it going again.

To prevent it flooding, when you switch off -

hold revs at 2k,
floor it at the same time you turn the key off.

This will pump air through as it winds down to stop, and hopefully leave no fuel on the plugs.

Carolgees

Really? I would have thought that would flood it?

Makes sense though I guess - like you say fuel will stop going in, but the rotors will still spin round as it winds down, pushing unburnt fuel straight into the exhaust.

Bit noisy though!! :rollin

I\'m still getting used to the \'quirks\' of the rotary engine, but I\'m very impressed by it\'s smoothness and how easy it is to work on ;)

I\'m definitely going to look into either:
VEMS, ITBs and a streetport
or
VEMS, Turbo, streetport/\'half bridge\'

I\'m loving the NA noise at the moment though